Alright heres what I've got in my garage.

B20B4 Block -
Zyglowed Block
Align Honed Block
Bored out to 84.5mm Honed with torque plate and Hot Tanked
Surfaced deck
NEW Clevite Main Bearings
NEW Clevite Race Rod Bearings
ARP Main Studs, ARP Head Studs, ARP Rod Bolts
Eagle Rods with ARP 2000 3/8" Rod Bolts
JE Pistons 11:0:1
Crank Balanced, Micropolished and Magnafluxed
JE Piston Rings Crome Faced Top
GE Oil sandwich plate
Cometic Head Gasket
Endyn Crankcase Breather Kit
Prodrive Oil Pump Gear
NEW ITR Oil Pump
New ITR Water Pump
Timing belt was a ITR Belt 3000 miles ago on my old LS/VTEC

2000 ITR Cylinder Head - about 3000 miles on it got it new with 0 on it
2000 ITR Cams, valvesprings, retainers etc.
AEBS Intake Manifold Stock LS Throttle Body for now
HP Racing 4-2-1 Header
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
Knock off Mugen Valvecover
ARP Exhaust studs







Now thats what I have heres what I plan to do, this was originally going in my DA but I decided to put it in my 93 Si (Don't worry they're saturated high impedance injectors that I ordered), so I need lots of other stuff and I need help cutting out what I don't need and maybe you have something you can sell me that you don't need. Now as for my transmission this question I have a pretty much brand new ACT 6 puck unsprung clutch in my garage with a heavy duty pressure plate and a ACT Streetlite flywheel. My question is will these work in the Hydraulic transmission I plan to buy? From what I understand and am told it will work fine. Well anyway heres the list.

My 1993 Civic Si is totally stock except for JDM Fog's.

Type-R Transmission - $1000+
Enjo Mountkit or Hasport - $347+
Hasport Shift Linkage - $150
Stg 2 axles from luke - $500 my buddy
AEM EMS - $1500
RSR EX MAG2 Exhaust or Skunk2 - $500
BBK 255 LPH Fuel Pump - $130
AEM Fuel Rail - $130
AEM Fuel Filter - $100
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator - $164
OBD-1 B-series VTEC distributor - $160+ (Mine is OBD-0 B16 dizzy)
BBK or any cheap good 70mm TB - $
Tein SS Coilovers - $1000 or so
Skunk2 Upper Controll arms - $250+ or so

So what do you guys think? Any guesses on how this setup will perform 1/4 mile time HP guesses? And do you think theres any ways I can cut some cost on this build and not saccrifice safety and reliability of the engine? And another thing is the clutch think I can use it? thanx so much if you can give me some help.

 

yes the trans will work genus!! umm the hp rating will be around 100hp and 70 ft lbs of torque. um your quarter mile will be dont at about 15.2 or higher. sike im just playing your gonna see over 200whp . will this setup tuned and some slick you can get into the 12's easily. and yes the the clutch and flywheel will work. your clutch feel like a brake pedal. i hope you've been to the gym lately..

 

Thanks...any other opinions? I mean personally I think I'll be running something like 19.0@54mph or something in that range

 

hahahaha possbily i didnt want you to feel bad hahah

 

I have a simillar build but with 11:5:1 JE pistons. Make sure you get that baby tunned!! See sig for quarter times. It should be pretty quick.

 

An unsprung hub clutch is so completely overkill for that motor. For any real "street" car a 6 puck unsprung clutch is overkill.

Step down to a more reasonable clutch like a clutchmasters stage 2-3. If you prefer ACT then use their organic disc and HD pressure plate

-s

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by frankenfiend 04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes the trans will work genus!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

irony at its finest.

 

Yeah I know that but I've already had it in my old LS/VTEC DA and I like it and theres no point in just getting rid of a perfectly good clutch. Any more thoughts? 13's isn't bad, I need cams and headwork later though for sure. Most likely I'll drive it for awhile and when it starts to give out sleeve my LS block in the garage and go LS/VTEC turbo with 85mm+ bore.

 

what year was your DA? If it was the 92-93 then yeah.. you can use the same clutch set up with the new hydro gsr trans.
you should be able to hit mid to low 13's easily..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

irony at its finest.</TD></TR></TABLE>

HAHA, that's one of the funniest things i've seen in a while

 

It was in a 1990 DA, but most people think it will work the only difference in the ACT part #'s is HDR2 or HDR4 something like that, most likely the bastard that did the old engine put in a clutch for a 92-93 but I don't know. Only time will tell if it'll work.

 

You know that really serious pressure plate clutches can wear out certin components very fast. Thrust washers etc...

It will work, but wouldnt have been my first choice

-s

 

that clutch rocks for the price. i just drove one today its not even that bad. im gonna get one for my car. good choice!!! especially since my friend can churp 5th gear

 

NOW FOR THE MOST RECENT PICS, No they're not my ITB's I wish they're my buddys ITB's and thats his header too. :lol wish it was mine :D





Updated list of crap...

THE CAR:
1993 Honda Civic Si Hatchback
JDM Foglights
Buddy Club Pro Spec Exhaust
Buddy Club P1 Racing+2 15x6.5" Wheels in Hyper Gold
Carbon Fiber Duckbill Spoiler
Apex-I VAFC

What I Have Now For Engine:

B20B4 Block Zyglowed, Bored & Honed to 84.5mm with Torque Plate, Align Honed, Hot Tanked, Surfaced & Decked
Crank Magnafluxed, Balanced, Micropolished
Clevite Rod Bearings
Clevite Main Bearings
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
ARP Rod Bolts
Eagle Rods 4340
JE Forged Pistons 11:0:1 Compression Ratio
ITR Waterpump
ITR Oilpump
ITR Timingbelt and new Belt Tensioner
Prodrive Oil Pump Gear
Golden Eagle LS/VTEC Conversion Piece
Endyn Crankcase Breather Kit
Cometic Head Gasket
2000 JDM ITR Cylinder Head
ARP Exhaust Studs
HP Racing 4-2-1 Stainless Header
AEBS Intake Manifold
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
AEM SRI Intake
ACT Streetlite Flywheel
1996 ITR Transmission with LSD
RC310 Injectors

What I Need:

Stage 2 500hp Axles - $500 from Luke
Engine Mounts - $350 from Luke
Shift Linkage & OBD 1 VTEC Dizzy - $200 shipped
BBK Fuel Pump - $130
AEM Fuel Filter - $100
AEM FPR - $165
Hondata S200 - $300-500
Ericks Racing 70mm Throttle Body - $400
Buddy Club Cam Gears - $178
Omnipower LCA's - $110
ACT Clutch Kit $450
Buddy Club Spec 3 Camshafts with Omnipower Springs and Titanium Retainers - $805
Omnipower Coilovers with Upper A-arms and Rear Shims - $800
Misc Fluids & anything else Missing - $_______________

So....any new opinions?

Modified by CRVTEC0WNZJ00 at 10:03 PM 3/2/2005


Modified by CRVTEC0WNZJ00 at 10:04 PM 3/2/2005

 

the pressure plate you have will work.... the clutch disc will not is it is for a 90 integra.. they have the same amount of splines but the hydro is bigger..

WILL NOT WORK EVEN THOUGH IT APPEARS TO FIT....... 100 PERCENT POSSITIVE

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by frankenfiend 04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that clutch rocks for the price. i just drove one today its not even that bad. im gonna get one for my car. good choice!!! especially since my friend can churp 5th gear </TD></TR></TABLE>You do know that chirping 5th is NOT a good thing,right?

 

Sick side exit header

 

See I'm using my ACT Streetlite flywheel that I got for my DA long ago on my B18A1 block and I'm guessing since the clutch mounts to that and is held there at all times by the pressure plate I'm just wondering about the inputshafts splines only way for me to know for sure and thats to put the clutch on the input shaft and see..the last thing I need would have to be get a new flywheel and a whole new clutch kit, the clutchkit I could probably deal with though if this one won't work.

 

Bump.

The clutch disc won't even begin to halfway slide on the input shaft of the transmission.

 

bump again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRVTEC0WNZJ00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Type-R Transmission - $1000+
Enjo Mountkit or Hasport - $347+
Hasport Shift Linkage - $150
Stg 2 axles from luke - $500 my buddy
AEM EMS - $1500
RSR EX MAG2 Exhaust or Skunk2 - $500
BBK 255 LPH Fuel Pump - $130
AEM Fuel Rail - $130
AEM Fuel Filter - $100
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator - $164
OBD-1 B-series VTEC distributor - $160+ (Mine is OBD-0 B16 dizzy)
BBK or any cheap good 70mm TB - $
Tein SS Coilovers - $1000 or so
Skunk2 Upper Controll arms - $250+ or so

</TD></TR></TABLE>

What I would do if I were you is just get stock motor mounts and If you really wanted a little extra just add es inserts. The fuel rail and fuel filter are really pointless, your stock ones are fine for that. Also for you clutch you must know if it is a 90-91 cause it will not work with a newer hydraulic transmission. There are a different number of teeth on the imput shaft so your clutch disk will not work. To save some more cash I would try to trade your distributor with someone who or sell it and then purchase your OBD 1 distributor

 

Yeah but see when you replace the fuel pump they reccomend that you replace the fuel filter also not just the intake filter but the inline fuel filter and I don't ahve a fuel rail listed because mine will do fine, I just need a FPR and adaquate pump to supply the PSI to the injectors, and I've already found a pretty good deal on a dizzy and shift linkage. Plus my engine doesn't have stock mounts and I don't want to pay alot for them when I can just buy Hasport mounts here locally brand new. My main problem now is picking out a clutch that I like and rounding up the rest of the money.