ok, so i'm going to install ss braided brake lines and a ss braided clutch line.
at the same time i will be flushing the brake fluid and the clutch fluid.

I want to use Motul DOT 5.1, will this be good for both the brake system and the clutch? i know honda says to only use DOT 3 or 4, but i think lots run this motul DOT 5.1...

oh and will 3 bottle be enough of the Motul, i think they're 500ml each?


Modified by R-Spec at 12:12 AM 1/30/2005
should i drain the whole brake system and clutch of all fluid then install the lines then fill w/ fluid then bleed?


Modified by R-Spec at 12:13 AM 1/30/2005

 

u dont really need dot 5 unless you do some having braking (like maybe track racing) so i say just stick with oem.

 

i do race, so yea...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R-Spec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i do race, so yea...</TD></TR></TABLE>
what kinda?
i think dot4 is good enough

 

use ATE Superblue.......that stuff is the best

 

Don't use DOT 5 brake fluid unless it's in a purpose race car. It will compromise the durability of your brake lines/components unless it is frequently flushed - and bleeding it is harder.

If you want high performance brake fluid simply use Motul 600 or Castrol LMA which are DOT 4.

 

oh cuz i thought it was the oposite:

"For everyday driving, we recommend using Motul D.O.T. 5.1 brake fluid. This is an excellent brake fluid to use when upgrading your brake system with braided stainless steel brake lines, brake pads and sloted rotors. It can be mixed with SAE J 1703, D.O.T. 3, 4, and 5 synthetic brake fluid. Motul D.O.T. 5.1 brake fluid has a 509°F dry - 365°F wet boiling point. The container is filled with nitrogen gas to increase shelf life and eliminate contamination while factory sealed. DO NOT MIX THIS PRODUCT WITH SILICONE BRAKE FLUIDS.
For racing purposes, we recommend the Motul RBF 600 brake fluid. The RBF 600 brake fluid is recommended for racing purposes only due to it's characteristic to easily absorb moisture and requires frequent changing. The RBF 600 brake fluid is the ultimate in high performance brake fluid. It far exceeds the standards of D.O.T. 3 and D.O.T. 4 The container is filled with nitrogen gas to increase shelf life and eliminate contamination while factory sealed. DO NOT MIX THIS PRODUCT WITH SILICONE BRAKE FLUIDS. Contents: 1 bottle"

and motul dot 5.1 isn't dot 5 it's dot 5.1, which i gues is different

?

and when i searched about the brake fluids i got mixed reviews, but i heard more good (then bad) stuff about motul...

the thing is the teg is my daily driver and i also do auto-x and touge (agresivly driving on the street/mountain roads, wateva the **** u wana call it)
so braking is imortant (as i'm getting more into this stuff next seasion), i have new brembo blank rotors, axxis ultimate pads(next pads will be Cobalt GT-Sport), earl's ss braided brake lines, a brake master cylinder brace, and i want some good fluid (but i will flush it like every 10k mi) i don't want a fluid i need to flush/bleed constantly and i need something that will still be ok for dailly driving

and i have abs...

motul says:
"Dot 5.1 brake fluid

LONG LIFE 100% synthetic fluid for hydraulic actuated-brake and clutch systems.
DOT 5.1 NON-SILICONE BASE.
Fluidity specially designed for anti-locking brake systems.

LONG LIFE FORMULA : the high wet boiling point (185°c/365°F), superior to DOT 4 and DOT 3 fluids enables to use this product longer.
SPECIALLY DESIGNED TO ANTI-LOCKING BRAKE SYSTEM (ABS) : its viscosity (820 centipoises at -40°c / -40°F) lower than DOT 4 and DOT 3 brake fluids, allows MOTUL BRAKE FLUID DOT 5.1 an easier fluid circulation in micro-valves of anti-locking systems.
PERFECTLY NEUTRAL WITH SEALS USED IN BRAKING SYSTEMS. ANTI-CORROSION.

STANDARDS : FMVSS 116 DOT 5.1 NON SILICONE BASE & DOT 4 & DOT 3
SAE J 1703 "


hmm but ate super blue sounds good too...


Modified by R-Spec at 1:24 PM 12/29/2004

 

and a bump...

 

Dredging up from the dead.

Did you do the fluid swap?? If so how did it go. I am thinking about doing the exact same thing. Did you drian the system first and then slowley fill it with the 5.1? How about the clutch how did that go?

Also where did you get the clutch line??

I use to work for a bicycle manufacturer and we used a disk brake system on some on the bikes. At first we used dot3 but we where experiencing a lot of boiling problems. Under my suggestion we contacted motul and they sent us some 5.1 for us to test. Well it pretty much solved every problem we had. We where able to drain out the old 3 and bleed with the 5.1. We never had and seal problem. They also sent us some 5.0 but told us to try it on a new dry system, we did and it worked fine, but if we miked it with any system that had 3 or 4 in it we ran into major problems, seal where gone within days and we even had a couple of lines fail.

Morel of the story the 5.1 rocked!!!! they still us it to this day.

 

bump, anyone?

 

i plan on putting the motul dot 5.1 fluid, the brake lines, and clutch line in next month

these are the clutch lines.
i don't know which 1 i will get yet tho:


fastlineperformance


inline4


i'm also wondering if, i should drain the whole brake system and clutch of all fluid then install the lines then fill w/ fluid then bleed....

 

The clutch should be easy to drain, fill and bleed.

The brakes are what worries me, should i remove all four lines at once, drain the fluid out of everything, or just do one line at a time.

Even if I do not go with SS lines i want to replace them as the are 9 years old, and the car has sat for the last 1+ year, so i still have to figure out the best way of doing this.

 

yea any 1 know the best way?

 

 

I did ss brake lines replaced w/ the blue ****. Works great

 

should i drain the whole brake system and clutch of all fluid then install the lines then fill w/ fluid then bleed?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Racermech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...should i remove all four lines at once, drain the fluid out of everything, or just do one line at a time...</TD></TR></TABLE>?

 

DOT 3/4 for daily driver/weekend race car. DOT 5 for PURE race car.

DOT 5 will give a spongy feel to the pedal in a non-intended DOT 5 system. DOT 4 will work fine for your application unless this is only driven at the track, then I guess it would be ok to use it.

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R-Spec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i do race, so yea...</TD></TR></TABLE>

what kind of racing?

for most people i'd reccomend just regular fluid
for ppl who have a higher demand, the ATE fluid is good for the money
and if your demands are even higher, there is some $70 per bottle ****, that is the shizzle

as for bleeding the brakes
RR,LF,LR,RF is the sequence I use, and always get excellent results

 

Dan, How do you go about getting all of the old fluid out???

I am going to bleed jsut like you have said, but i am still not sure about getting the old stuff out. Maybe jut take a couple of lines off and let gravity do all the work??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what kind of racing?

for most people i'd reccomend just regular fluid
for ppl who have a higher demand, the ATE fluid is good for the money
and if your demands are even higher, there is some $70 per bottle ****, that is the shizzle

as for bleeding the brakes
RR,LF,LR,RF is the sequence I use, and always get excellent results</TD></TR></TABLE>Auto-x and touge
down hill touge is the main reason i'm upgrading the 10 year old brakes w/ ss braided lines, new rotors, high performance pads, some good fluid, and probably some cooling ducts for the front brakes...

but what i'm asking is basically the same things as Racermech is asking: should i drain the whole brake system and clutch of all fluid then install the lines then fill w/ fluid then bleed?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Racermech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dan, How do you go about getting all of the old fluid out???

I am going to bleed jsut like you have said, but i am still not sure about getting the old stuff out. Maybe jut take a couple of lines off and let gravity do all the work??</TD></TR></TABLE>

gravity won't do **** when bleeding brakes
the method i use, and not everyone does it this way
but i've tried many different ways, and this seems to be the best

I like ATE super blue, because you can visually see, when you have completely flushed all the brake fluid

1. take all 4 wheels off, put the whole car in the air, ( it is possible to do it without all 4 wheels off, but its a pain in the ***, to raise the car and lower the car constantly, so just get 4 jack stands)
2. have a friend sit in the driver seat and work the pedal, make sure the e-brake is down
3. grab a turkey baster,(keep in mind, you can never use it again for food consumption) and suck out almost all the old fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir DO NOT TAKE ALL OF IT OUT
4. fill reservoir with new fluid
5. turn on the engine
6. start at rear passenger side wheel
7.attach clear vinyl hose to bleeder
8.have friend pump brakes 3 times, then hold it down, open the bleeder ( highly recommend a 6 point box wrench for this, as the bleeders like to strip), close the bleeder, then let your friend bring the pedal back up, and tell friend to apply pressure again, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, then let your friend bring the pedal back up, REPEAT until clean fluid comes out, and no more bubbles are visible
9.MAKE SURE THE RESERVOIR IS ALWAYS FULL, if you suck air into the system, you will have to bleed it till you get all the air out, a major PITA
10.proceed to drivers front, then drivers rear, then passengers front


gravity bleeding will only work for the clutch
you only completely drain the brake system of fluid, when using a brake fluid that is incompatible with DOT 3/4

 

if you use anything other than chepo DOT 3/4 for ur clutch, your an asshat

as for brake pads, I love Cobalt Friction GT-Sports, anything more aggressive, and its not very daily driving friendly

 

Dan u are the man!! I guess i will have to get my new battery to bleed it...opps.

It looks like I am also going with the blue stuff, getting it from StopChek here on HT.

 

ok...
when i take the old brake lines off (when the system still has the old brake fluid in it) will the brake fluid start draining out of the system, or will i be ok?