replacing rear engine mount
im trying to replace the rear engine mount on my 90 crx si with the engine still in the car.
how far do you have to drop the rear crossmember to get to that one bolt? would i have to remove axles and tie-rod ends? if i only have to drop the crossmember a couple of inches, should i still disconnect the u-joint at the steering column ?
thanks
how far do you have to drop the rear crossmember to get to that one bolt? would i have to remove axles and tie-rod ends? if i only have to drop the crossmember a couple of inches, should i still disconnect the u-joint at the steering column ?
thanks
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,592
Likes: 0
From: not riding any bandwagons in, massachusetts, usa
disconnect the steering joint first, as you will need a few inches to play with. personally,, i would remove all 4 bolts and drop the whole rear rack as far as the upper control arms will allow. if its not enough, id drop the passenger shock out of the tower from the top.
I can't picture the access you have right now with the motor in place, but I can tell you that it didn't look much better with my motor out. However, I WAS able to remove the rear engine mount from the rear crossmember WITHOUT moving the crossmember. It's actually not that difficult if you have a couple of extensions and joints to play with on your sockets. It's worth a shot since dropping the rear crossmember is a pain.
Try this too: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=973971
Try this too: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=973971
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im stuck too. i took the two bolts off holding the fuel filter and moved that out the way. i disconnected most of the stuff holding the heater control, but the hose is stuck so i didnt clear that space yet. however i did manage to slip a socket connected to a u-joint down into that small *** space, but when i got it on the bolt, the u-joint had twisted towards the mount and i couldnt snap the extension on it.
im back from eating so im gonna try slipping the socket down again but this time with the extension and try wiggling it around to get it on the bolt. im worried about how the heck im gonna thread that bolt back on when the new mount goes on....
im back from eating so im gonna try slipping the socket down again but this time with the extension and try wiggling it around to get it on the bolt. im worried about how the heck im gonna thread that bolt back on when the new mount goes on....
Good, Bad…I'm the one with the gun
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 5,241
Likes: 2
From: Trapped in time, Surrounded by evil, Low on gas
remove everything that is in the way, that includes the fuel filter, the heater valve, and your intake. wrap the u-joint in some electrical tape that will restrict the movement of it, have patience, i did that without removing the engine or the cross-member.
stan
stan
ok, this is what i did, and i can say im done, (just torquing them right now, thats why im on).
move your intake (pretty obvious).
unbolt your fuel filter bracket (2 10mm bolts up towards the top)
unhook heater valve cable, and unbolt the 10mm)
next remove the front and the driver side 14mm bolts on the mount.
then loosen the 3 17mm bolts on the engine bracket and the 17mm bolt for the connection of the mount and the bracket.
next move the heater valve off to the right, you can twist it and it will be fine. you will see what i mean.
now you can loosen it, you have to use a 3/8 drive 14 mm, and u-joint with a 6-8 inch extention. then after that extention you can use whatever you want to get it off...
next take the rest off of the loosened stuff off...
now take the new mount and connect it to the bracket while off of the car, but dont totally tighten it.
put in the front and the right side 14mm bolts for the engine mount. then put in the 17mm bolts for the bracket...hand tight...
now you have "the bitch hole" <===new gator term
take your 14mm and ujoint and hold it in the little space in the engine mount, take your right arm and wedge it between the firewall and intake manifold and hold the 14mm in place while tightening with your left hand...
next torque em all...
and put everything else back the way it was, or in my case, throw out the charcoal canister...
move your intake (pretty obvious).
unbolt your fuel filter bracket (2 10mm bolts up towards the top)
unhook heater valve cable, and unbolt the 10mm)
next remove the front and the driver side 14mm bolts on the mount.
then loosen the 3 17mm bolts on the engine bracket and the 17mm bolt for the connection of the mount and the bracket.
next move the heater valve off to the right, you can twist it and it will be fine. you will see what i mean.
now you can loosen it, you have to use a 3/8 drive 14 mm, and u-joint with a 6-8 inch extention. then after that extention you can use whatever you want to get it off...
next take the rest off of the loosened stuff off...
now take the new mount and connect it to the bracket while off of the car, but dont totally tighten it.
put in the front and the right side 14mm bolts for the engine mount. then put in the 17mm bolts for the bracket...hand tight...
now you have "the bitch hole" <===new gator term
take your 14mm and ujoint and hold it in the little space in the engine mount, take your right arm and wedge it between the firewall and intake manifold and hold the 14mm in place while tightening with your left hand...next torque em all...
and put everything else back the way it was, or in my case, throw out the charcoal canister...
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