I know that the f22 setup after looking at it thinking about it and talking to misa and other people on here its got potential somewhat but its restricted to ****. im just wondering what all you shade tree mechanics have found tried and what youve got going on the drawing board. i know half of you would like to just post and tell me the motor sucks and to swap in a h22 and i have noted and filed that idea im just looking for anyone has some insite on the f22

 

The F22 is not all bad. I also will not tell you to swap for the H22. It's all about really what you are looking for. The H22 is of course the superior motor, but the F22 is good and sturdy as well. Granted, you're never going to win any drag races, but you can still have a very fast F22 powered Accord. If you haven't already done so, the best things that you can work on are brakes, suspension, and tires. These three are essential, not only for performance, but for optimal safety as well. Also, depending on what you want out of the car, I would lighten the car.

With that said, I've seen some F22 powered Accords whoop some serious butt at the track. Remember, Accords, with our double wishbones are pretty decent handlers.

As far as N/A mods go, I would do the basics....intake, header and exhaust. For the intake, the stock box with a K&N drop in will work just fine if you don't want to shell out the cash for a CAI. They work just as well. Don't screw with an underhood intake, because they will actually cause you to lose power. With the exhaust, be sure to use 2.25" piping. If you have or get a cat-back system, the piping should already be the optimal size.

As far as serious power, there are companies who make stronger engine internals (such as higher/lower compression pistons, rods, cams, valves and valve springs, etc., as well as N20 systems, and turbo kits. I would think that a motor rebuild and a turbo kit would be a pretty effective power adder. If you do turbo, go as big on the piping as you want. 2.25" won't cut it. Go like three or 3.5. The less backpressure the better on a turbo exhaust system.

As for me and my accord, I have all the basics on my f22B2, and I am trying to decide whether to keep the car or not. I really want RWD, like a 240Sx, but I'm not sure. If I keep the Accord, either a total F22 engine and tranny rebuild will take place, or I will swap for the H22. Haven't decided. I might just drive the accord till it dies and get that 240. Decisions...decisions...


[Modified by accord55, 5:06 AM 1/7/2002]


[Modified by accord55, 5:09 AM 1/7/2002]

 

[QUOTE]If you haven't already done so, the best things that you can work on are brakes, suspension, and tires. These three are essential, not only for performance, but for optimal safety as well

i am doing that now. i am looking for struts/shocks ( i want some kybagx's) and a rear sway bar but on suspension ive got coilovers, tie bars and front and rear upper strut bars, and my camber correction kit. for brakes im doing the larger v6 accord wagon upgrade ive got the rotors and pads im waiting on calipers.


and if misa would IM ME BACK AAHHHEMMM. then i could figure out how to finish this exhaust set up..

how would an underhood intake lose power? if its oversized and the fender plastic thing you have to take out to get the resonator out is removed you still think it zaps power?


[Modified by Sabastian, 9:58 PM 1/6/2002]


[Modified by Sabastian, 10:01 PM 1/6/2002]

 

well sabastian i really dont have a digi cam, when i get to daves house ill put it up and take pics for you, have you done the solid rear mount yet?

 

hey i knew i forgot something... hmmm wait i remember why i didnt order that... where did you find the mount at?

whats everybody done for lightening this heffty lady up


[Modified by Sabastian, 7:51 AM 1/7/2002]

 

never fill up past a half a tank of gas

 

lol i ill try that

 

Sabastian,

Underhood intakes lose power because even though the intake is technically sucking in more air, the air being sucked in is very hot because of the engine's temperature. You know the saying....for every ten or eleven degrees cooler the air is you will gain +1 horsepower. With that said, the stock airbox acts like a heat shield to protect against the engine temps. Also, the only real power robber in the stock system is the filter, so you would just need to replace your paper one with a K&N or a foam unit.

Also, most dyno tests of the underhood intakes are very decieving, due to the fact that the conditions are not real driving conditions. They will have the hood up and air blowing in it, and that's not at all representative of real driving conditions.

Here is a real life example I found on HondaPrelude.com This guy actually tested a DC Sports underhood against his stock system with the K&N.....read.
http://www.hondaprelude.com/resource...ermarket&id=29


For weight savings, if I decide to keep the Accord, I plan to remove all carpet, tar, and fuzz...door panels...gut the trunk....power steering and AC....

When I had my Civic I had all the carpet removed, the trunk gutted, the backseat removed, and I was about to do the power steering and AC, but I traded it in before I had the chance.

Also, get parts that are lighter to replace existing more heavy parts.... like light 15" rims instead of the heavy 17-18's and get a racing seat that is both light and comfortable and position it well so that you will have an easier time driving.


[Modified by accord55, 5:52 PM 1/7/2002]

 

Ok i see and that makes scense now for a different angle on this
Which of these three would produce more power.

1Drop in K&N filter with out resonator
2Real CAI piping that extends out of the engine bay into the fenderwall or the front of the car ie... remove headlight.
3CAI That sits in fenderwall as well as your throttle body being enlarged and your intake manifold to match


ok i was thinking number 3 for obvious reasons but im just clarifying this topic


[Modified by Sabastian, 11:26 AM 1/7/2002]

 

Well, I would guess, and this is only a guess, that the CAI with the removed headlight would work best, assuming that you would be getting air forced into the intake system as you drive. Some of the touring cars in the SpeedVision World Challenge are using this method..... Taz Harvey used this a few years ago when he was driving that yellow Integra R. You could see that he had one headlight removed.

A CAI is good, however, I personally am afraid of hydrolock. I don't think that those AEM bypass valves do a hell of a lot of good. I mean they did get recalled afterall. Also, I prefer the sleeper look, so I am using the stock box with a K&N drop in. I like this setup better to any I have tried so far.

Hope this helps.... I mean basically, if you want to spend the loot, get the CAI. Unless you hydrolock, you'll probably like it. However, if you don't care about it or just don't want to spend the money, just get the K&N drop in. Besides, the intake isn't an area where you will be getting the majority of your power, but every little bit does help.

Now, personally, I firmly believe that the Comptech Icebox is the best intake system on the market right now. check out http://www.comptechusa.com This system takes the factory airbox concept to a whole new level. It is like a factory airbox, with a free flow Comptech foam filter, and there is a pipe that runs cold air, just like a CAI would. You'll get the idea when you see the pics of it. Roger Foo used the Comptech system in his yellow EG last year. Previously, he was using a stock box with a K&N drop in. The only thing bad about the Icebox is that it is only available for Civic Si's and Integras right now You might be able to rig one up somehow though (?)

 

check out this link:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=106021 about the stock box and K&N drop in.


Here's a pic of that Icebox:




[Modified by accord55, 3:25 AM 1/8/2002]


[Modified by accord55, 3:27 AM 1/8/2002]

 

I currently have a f22b1 motor with NOS and a F-max turbo. It had alot of power before It blow up. Rebuilting the internals right now.

 

my friend has an stock F22 accord, he wants to get a nitrous kit, how big of a shot do you guys reccomend without any internal mods

 

i was using a 75 shot w/ stock intertals

 

50-75 is recommended, don't get greedy.

 

there was a ITR on on the boards that hydrolocked with the comptech box you all do remember that right? or shall i dig up the thread?

me thinks it was an itr im not pos tho


[Modified by Sabastian, 10:34 PM 1/7/2002]

 

sabastian, the rear mount is a solid polyurethane hasport mount for the preluse, you will need the rear mount bracket for the same year accord lx/dx