i need a little backup info for the ls/vtec setup.. what i need to know is that, when i get the vtec head, can i keep my stock distributor since i have a lifetime warranty on it? or do i have to waste my money buying another distributor?

in addition, i want to add a few mods to the engine, like cam gears. but before i get cam gears, do i have to get the ecu chipped before doing that? or chip the ecu, THEN get the c-gears?

 

what engine is the distributor for?

cam gears change the cam timing for better tuning capabilities, so it is not completely necissary to rechip the ecu

 

It is not nessessary to rechip the ecu to run cam gears at all. Most people run cam gears because they are running aggresively lobed cams to gain more power in certian spots. hope this helps. -Jason

 

yeah it does. thanks a LOT. besides tho, i'm gonna get that **** mugen chipp'd.

but for as the distributor, it's for the b18B, can i reuse it for a 1st gen b16?

 

seriously people, i really appreciate it if you lsvtec builders can give me some feedback on how you built your frankenstein motors.

 

well for what i know cause i am in the process of building mine is that you need w/the vtec head is a vetc timing belt depending on what head you go with if you go w a b16a you will want that timing belt. the best thing to do also is to get your head p/p and cleaned up. while the motor is apart you will want to get a new water pump for the matching head you go with. you will also need the to wire up the vtec fto the block. they have kits for that. you can put one together yourself or just buy it like im doing. Heres a link for the kit. You would want to replace your Ls head bolts with vtec head bolts probably arp. If you have anymore questions just ask.

http://tornactive.com/pd_golde...c.cfm

 

o yea and for the ecu i would go with a obd1 p72 ecu for the 92-95 civic or a chipped p30 for an obd2

 

I run a b18a block with a b16a head, b16 distributer, 99si(b16) ecu. and changed the water pump...and there was a hole drilled for a knock sensor which isnt a nescessity but all vtec blocks use knock sensors so i wanted to just to be safe. I also use stock ls head bolts. I havent used arp rod bolts yet wich i know i should so thats next on my list. a small investmant which will save big bucks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by holotta_eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">o yea and for the ecu i would go with a obd1 p72 ecu for the 92-95 civic or a chipped p30 for an obd2</TD></TR></TABLE> he could go with a chipped p28 and a vafc if he wanted... Also what are you using for fuel management?

 

1st off what car is this going into?

2nd, your stock b18b distribut. will not bolt up to a VTEC head(with out Moding it). You will need a distribut. from what ever OBD/ecu you will be useing. Ie non OBD you will need a NON-obd dissy, OBD1 you will need an OBD1 or an OBD 2 rewired.

The Ecu depends on what obd you are running, if the car is a 92+OBD1 integra then you can run a P72/P30/P28 chipped for dohc specs. If the car is a non OBD and did not want to convert to obd1 then you could run the PW0/PR3 ecu. all of then you will need to wire up the VTEC.

Just finished with my LSVTEC build so any help just ask

 

to crxkane what obd do you have and what set up are you running cause i am building up right now. soon to be done. also what head didi you go with and ecu i have a p72 obd1. can you feel a big horespower & tq gain

 

I am non-obd PR3 ecu with a B18b/B16a skunk2 cams/intake mani combo, I had a B16 prior to this and the tq gain from the b16 to the b18 is like night and day the car (91 crx si) pulls much harder.

I would have liked to go OBD1 but money kinda limited my build and that was part of it.....

 

why obd1 is it a better set up?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by holotta_eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why obd1 is it a better set up? </TD></TR></TABLE>

OBD1 has more turning ops. Honda for one is only OBD1 no non-obd......plus with obd1 if you use a chiped P28 ecu you dont have to run a knock sensor, with a pr3/pw0 you do be cause theses ecu's look for that sensor. there are other things like the o2 sensor thing, Non-obd ecus look for 2 O2 sensors, if you have a nice after market header most people dont want to cut a hole and add the bungs in the correct location or spend the $400+ that it cost for a hasport header, obd1 has 1, 4wire O2 sensor, most headers are set up for this....no cutting welding bungs just put your O2 in and go....

 

I have a b18b obd1 and if i want to do an ls/vtec whats is the best setup to have around 200whp to past an ITR if some ones can give me the grossery list to do a good engine thank you