https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1085832

theres nothing money can't solve















heres another one for good measure

 

dam.. that's why i stick with OEM belts..

 

i think the real problem is the toda B's
the B stands for Belt Breaker

 

nope, the main problem is the belt

oe > *

 

WOW!!!!

OEM Rocks!!!!!!!!

 

Wow thats the old power enterprise belt, good luck on your next build

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xhardcoresucksx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nope, the main problem is the belt

oe &gt; *</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol yeah they werent saying that a year or 2 ago before these "stronger" belts came out and everyone was shedding there valvetrain/belts with B's

 

I have also broken 2 belts with my TODA B's. a Greddy belt and a TODA belt... god damn TODA.

 

 

its great watchin the HT teeter totter go up and down over the yrs. i watched as everyone should have at the ppl that bought the TODA/PE belt. i watched as the TODA VS JUN debate went on. i can honestly say im glad i stuck with JUN and OEM.

 

It funny how some companies make a high performance version of a part and OEM simply wins. OEM headgaskets OEM crank pullies and i guess OEM t-belts too

 

oem is the best....... i dont care what other people use, all the way oem stuff

 

Man, I'm sorry that happened to your belt, hopefully everything comes together for you.


It's funny reading that thread, everyone is loving the OEM belt now, but a few years back it was the opposite. Toda B's are shaving belts, and everyone is talking bad about them, and how JUN are superior, when a year ago, JUN's were to be avoided at all cost, because they supposedly all break. I wonder whats next......

 

i've seen it happen to stock belts too..... if you put over 20k miles on your belt with aftermarket valvetrain and cams, i REALLY suggest you change the belt for safe measure

 

I don’t understand how people think the OEM belt is stronger then the PE or Toda belt. Just looking at the construction of the two, the PE and Toda belts look much stronger then OEM. When I ran the OEM belt with my B’s it had a lot more ware then any of my PE belts have ever had. I think a lot of the problem comes from improper tension setting.

 

everyones got pretty good points. i replace my belt yearly just for the fact its a $50 dollar part vs my 5k motor. i run my belt extremely tight, no "flap" even when cold, been doin this for years now and i dont even get any wear on the cam or head journals.
ive had my JUN cams since about 01' so i got mine b4 the "bad batches".

 

Here was my OEM belt with Toda C's.

 

hmm...seems that everyone wit dead belts happen to own toda. i mean, my cams are bigger than 90% of anything out...and i'm doing fine with a stock belt.....

 

I ran Toda B's in two of my motors...both using OEM belts.

However I was using a second tensioner mounted from the lower PS-pump bracket point. Never had an issue, belt stayed steady and smooth all the way to 9K.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Coyote1800cc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ran Toda B's in two of my motors...both using OEM belts.

However I was using a second tensioner mounted from the lower PS-pump bracket point. Never had an issue, belt stayed steady and smooth all the way to 9K.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Would you happen to have a pic of that setup?? I might have to give that a shot.

 

i have come up with a new product idea....imma paint stock timings belts yellow...and market those....oem quality with the cool new look.....but to the people who have broken stock belts....are you buying them brand new?

 

Ha ha. Seriously guys. Get real.

That broken belt and all the others are due to operator error, whether it be that it wasn't maintained properly, too many miles, or just a poor install. Who the hell blames a broken belt on a camshaft design? Ha ha.

I certainly believe that some belts are higher quality than others, but there are guys running those cams for 80K miles and have never worn a belt let alone break them. **** happens.

You should always be checking the condition of your belt the way we drive our cars. Preventative maintenance is easy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4piston &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should always be checking the condition of your belt the way we drive our cars. Preventative maintenance is easy.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

damn, there are some OWNED pictures waiting to happen in this thread

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4piston &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ha ha. Seriously guys. Get real.

That broken belt and all the others are due to operator error, whether it be that it wasn't maintained properly, too many miles, or just a poor install. Who the hell blames a broken belt on a camshaft design? Ha ha.

I certainly believe that some belts are higher quality than others, but there are guys running those cams for 80K miles and have never worn a belt let alone break them. **** happens.

You should always be checking the condition of your belt the way we drive our cars. Preventative maintenance is easy.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Mine belt tension was fine. The belt was in good condition as well and only had 40k miles on it. I believe that my problem was using Skunk2 valve springs with Toda C cams. The Toda's have very sharp ramp angles and the Skunk2 valve springs are are one of the stiffest you can buy. I believe that if I were using the much softer Toda valve springs that I would have been fine.

Whenver you modify a car you lower the overall reliability. I have accepted that fact.

I was holding off to put a new timing belt on my car until I put new pistons in which was going to happen in the next 3 months or so. I now run a Toda timing belt with RLZ Stage 3 cams and RLZ single valve springs. I hope that this combo will be reliable.