Hi everyone,
I spun a bearing on my 95 h22a1 203k miles. (she was getting old and it was bound to happen) especially with an oil issure. Anyway With the car being down for about mannnny months so far I have been saving up $ and buying parts here and there. I would like any positive and negative feedback with this setup. I have most of it set in stone but some variables are still in the air depending if I can get them. So here she is as of now.....

-What I want to do-

I'm building this car with basic all around sports car appeal, from road racing to hard runs at the track. I'm personally a high end type guy and love the freeway.

*I would like to pass smog somehow someday lol and am lost on how to do that once this is all said and done hehe. anyone know if places that is cool?
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!!!! (Block Is Built, Stage 1 done) !!!!

-Block-

'*' JDM H22A
'*' AEBS T-Sleeves
'*' JE 89mm 11.5:1 pistons with Custom Nitrous lip
'*' Crower steel billet rods
'*' Balanced full rotating assembly
'*' H23 timing conversion
'*' Moroso Wet Sump Oil Pan, moroso pickup
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Still need to get done!

-Head-

'*' Head pnp job done at Syizm by old JUN usa employee
'*' JUN Cams
'*' JUN Springs and Retainers
'*' STR new bronze cam gears
'*' ARP studs because it wouldn't be right without them
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-Electronics/Ignition- (lots of options)

'*' Apexi VAFC (own it and will now just use it for an accurate tach display)
'*' Denso Irridium plugs
'*' NGK wires
'*' MSD SCI
'*' Hondata S200 with datalogging and launch control
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-Trans-

'*' JDM LSD M2B4 (already own)
'*' ACT street disk and xtreme pressure plate (about a year old)
'*' Fidanza flywheel (need to buy)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-Intake/ Exhaust-

'*' AEM CAI (already own)
'*' Hondata IM gasket (already own)
'*' Prospeed Header 4-1 (already own)
'*' Greddy PE exhaust (already own)
'*' Blacktrax Electronic Exhaust Cut Out mounted on a custom Test pipe. (maybe)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-Fuel-

'*' AEBS Fuel Rail (already own)
'?' Fuel Injectors... (Still deciding, Any imput 370's?)
'*' Walbro 255 Fuel Pump (need to buy)
'*' AEM FPR (already own)
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-Cooling-

'*' KOYO aluminum radiator (already own)
'*' Mugen Fan Switch (maybe)
'*' Mugen Thermostat (maybe)
'*' Two 10" Derale electric high flow fans (already own)
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-Misc-

'*' AEM TRU POWER pulley (Just PS pulley)
'*' Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts (already own)





Modified by -NA-VTEC at 9:42 PM 1/23/2005


Modified by -NA-VTEC at 12:36 AM 4/9/2005


Modified by -NA-VTEC at 12:37 AM 4/9/2005

 

anyone?

 

go with some more compression... 12.5 or 13:1.. h22 can do it just fine on pump gas.

who is blacktrax.. never heard of em, not sure how effective their work would be, h22 is a great head to begin with. 230hp can be done w/the stock head.

you will need a bigger exhaust.. 3 inch is where its at, h22 hates a small exhaust.

 

blacktrax is a small shop located in Milpitas CA. Bay Area, I'm good friends with the owner there and they have a nice repp immerging out of such a small place. check em out. http://www.blacktrax.net

Also I'm installing the exhaust cutout right behind the header so exhaust won't be an issue hopefully.

 

need some advice....

 

bump

 

BlackTrax is just fine. they're awesome. they're a local bay area shop.

nice set up you have planned. that's a crap load of parts not to have yet though. the JUN cams are hard to come by now, as is the valvetrain. i'm all N/A VTEC H22 as well.

talk to Jei about this, i'm sure he can recommend some parts for you that you may still be wavering on.

if you want to pass smog, just get it tuned.

suggestions:
drop the pulleys
keep the factory fan switch and thermostat
get a walbro 255LPHP fuel pump
get a B&M FPR
Don't get an ACT flywheel
have BlackTrax make you a clutch to order specific to your set up
don't necessarily need the MSD SCI
just run Honda TypeS pistons for the same CR

But again, do what you like, and make sure you talk to Nat and Jei, they know their ****.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go with some more compression... 12.5 or 13:1.. h22 can do it just fine on pump gas.

who is blacktrax.. never heard of em, not sure how effective their work would be, h22 is a great head to begin with. 230hp can be done w/the stock head.

you will need a bigger exhaust.. 3 inch is where its at, h22 hates a small exhaust.</TD></TR></TABLE>
12.5 or 13:1 on pump gas just fine? really? I've never heard anyone make that claim before. I was considering type-s pistons, milled head for 11.3~.5 cr and type-s cams.

 

Looks like you are headed the right direction. Remeber Jun cams Love compression! 11.5.1-12.3.1! we did an h22 .We P&P the head, and used jun valvetrain. We are having some issues with the Engine managment, so It has not been tuned yet. Baseline it put down 200 whp. That was also with a stock intake manifold. Since then we changed to Skunk2, and it breathes alot better. I am anxious to see what it makes. Jun's H22 with 12.5.1 comp made 270WHP!!! and that was built for the street, and daily driving w/ track use!!!!Good luck!

 

iakona - Ya I have the JUN parts already. rare find!!
I did drop the pulleys, bought the Walbro, I have had the clutch for almost a year, probably going to get a BT one, got a AEM FPR for way cheap and the block has been built. Just waiting to pull my head off the old block for milling.

 

also what is the reasoning behind keeping the factory fan switch and thermostat?

I'm basically getting the Mugen ones for nothing because I have a gift card for R&D from winning at LFW.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iakona &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BlackTrax is just fine. they're awesome. they're a local bay area shop.

nice set up you have planned. that's a crap load of parts not to have yet though. the JUN cams are hard to come by now, as is the valvetrain. i'm all N/A VTEC H22 as well.

talk to Jei about this, i'm sure he can recommend some parts for you that you may still be wavering on.

if you want to pass smog, just get it tuned.

suggestions:
drop the pulleys
keep the factory fan switch and thermostat
get a walbro 255LPHP fuel pump
get a B&M FPR
Don't get an ACT flywheel
have BlackTrax make you a clutch to order specific to your set up
don't necessarily need the MSD SCI
just run Honda TypeS pistons for the same CR

But again, do what you like, and make sure you talk to Nat and Jei, they know their ****.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Blacktrax

Have their Stage 3 clutch for my H22a, have no complaints. I would recommend the Hondata. I'm still pondering this myself but people have told me that the Hondata is the best thing to run period and plus if you need to smog just get it retuned and then switch it back after.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -NA-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also what is the reasoning behind keeping the factory fan switch and thermostat?

I'm basically getting the Mugen ones for nothing because I have a gift card for R&D from winning at LFW.</TD></TR></TABLE>

in reading up on the s200 at hondata.com/forums, there is a sticky regarding low temp thermostats and hondata not jiving at idle and for cold starts. just thoguht i'd pass it along.

use your R&D gift cert for something good. maybe something Endless or a down payment on some Takatas or something?

 

Hondata would be cool but just recently I have been looking into more of a user controlled datalogging system. Uberdata or Neptune. I still have many options regarding my managment system and I will go with what is best for my setup and my wallet.

- Iakona, Dude its me Jeremy!! We always happen to run into eachother bap meets or car shows. haha And ya man I need to still check out our CF wire cover.

 

Give me a call at my shop on monday (520) 296-2223. See my sig. I can help you.

 

updated progress. And 2point6 I'll call ya on monday. Who should I ask to talk to?

 

what's up jeremy?!?1

up and running agian soon i hope??

hope school is treating you well.

 

Things are good, just need to get the ludda goin. Its been soo long. Anyway School is good. The bay is pretty tight. Should be more fun when I get my setup pretty solid. Hows the Accalude treatin ya these days?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -NA-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">updated progress. And 2point6 I'll call ya on monday. Who should I ask to talk to?</TD></TR></TABLE>Ask for Scott or Robert

 

I would drop the moroso oil pan, heard of starvation problems while turning. But thats just what i've "heard"

 

haha I feel its pretty ironic the moroso pan is suposed to solve that problem. But ya I should consider selling her. I have heard that from a friend who has one.

My original H22 died from that same problem errr.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -NA-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My original H22 died from that same problem errr.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i know! i still feel bad for you.

the H is still running good, but it's smog time. then going to see Jei for some goodie installs.

 

why is the h23 tensioner better than the hydrolic h22's? also is it good to lose the crank balance belt for all motor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22Sicoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why is the h23 tensioner better than the hydrolic h22's? also is it good to lose the crank balance belt for all motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the autotensioners fail and they are proven to not hold up against big cams. just a safety precaution.

the balancer belt issue is like ford vs. chevy. a lot of peole leave them in, a lot of people take them out. vibration is your main factor.

 

Looks like you're going in the right direction. I'd suggest a few changes in parts/companies personally.

You could easily make 220+