First time installing brake pads... difficulty?
FYI i already searched and couldnt find any pictures or thorough directions. How hard is it to just swap out the two front pads? Since brakes are a critical part i want to do it right. My local shop gave me an estimate of $150 for pads and resurfaced rotors, i know thats an *** rape price thats why im trying to do it myself. My questions are: Is it neccesary to resurface the rotors also? If so, how hard is it to take them off? Whats the worst thing that can happen if i decided to change the pads myself? Any other info would greatly be appreciated.
go grab a haynes manual from pep boys, that will show you how to change the brakes. its very easy. Stock replacement rotors are cheap enough to buy as opposed to replace.
That's probably the easiest maintenance job (next to the oil change) that the beginner DIY mechanic can do. If you don't want to pay $$$ to replace the rotors, you can bring them to your local Pep Boys to have them measured for wear, and resurfaced. This will be significantly cheaper than replacing them, especially if you don't have to.
I would also like to add that a good service manual (Helms) or the other service manuals (Chilton, Haynes) would fast become your most often used, and most important tool. It would definitely be worth the investment if you're just learning.
I would also like to add that a good service manual (Helms) or the other service manuals (Chilton, Haynes) would fast become your most often used, and most important tool. It would definitely be worth the investment if you're just learning.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by projectej8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FYI i already searched and couldnt find any pictures or thorough directions. How hard is it to just swap out the two front pads? Since brakes are a critical part i want to do it right. My local shop gave me an estimate of $150 for pads and resurfaced rotors, i know thats an *** rape price thats why im trying to do it myself. My questions are: Is it neccesary to resurface the rotors also? If so, how hard is it to take them off? Whats the worst thing that can happen if i decided to change the pads myself? Any other info would greatly be appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
150 is not in the **** rape price range. I would resurface the rotors, that way your new brake pads can break in in just few hundred miles. If the rotor is too groovy, the pad has to burn a lot off to get the 100% contact your looking for, and if the shop wants to charge you for it, then they probably determined in there safety inspection that it needs to get done. Its easy to change the pads. Lube the shims and the piston contact, the worst thing you could do is lubricate the friction material and then not be able to stop on your test drive.
150 is not in the **** rape price range. I would resurface the rotors, that way your new brake pads can break in in just few hundred miles. If the rotor is too groovy, the pad has to burn a lot off to get the 100% contact your looking for, and if the shop wants to charge you for it, then they probably determined in there safety inspection that it needs to get done. Its easy to change the pads. Lube the shims and the piston contact, the worst thing you could do is lubricate the friction material and then not be able to stop on your test drive.
doing pads is sooooo easy man.
take off your wheel,
theres one bolt and the calipers flip open letting you pull out the pads and put in new ones.
ez as that.
you might have to push the pistons back in so you can get the new pads in(if the old pads were really worn down then you'll need more space for the thicker new pads).
just use the butt end of a hammer and push real hard. dont hammer on em though, u dont wanna eff em up.
have fun!
take off your wheel,
theres one bolt and the calipers flip open letting you pull out the pads and put in new ones.
ez as that.
you might have to push the pistons back in so you can get the new pads in(if the old pads were really worn down then you'll need more space for the thicker new pads).
just use the butt end of a hammer and push real hard. dont hammer on em though, u dont wanna eff em up.
have fun!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snoochtodanooch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go grab a haynes manual from pep boys, that will show you how to change the brakes. its very easy. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, buy a manual for sure. Helm is the best. Chilton and Haynes are okay if youre low on cash.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snoochtodanooch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stock replacement rotors are cheap enough to buy as opposed to replace. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Bad advice
Why would you buy new rotors when you can resurface the ones you have and the end result is the same? I'd resurface the rotors when changing the pads, especially if they are warped(your steering wheel shakes when you brake)
It's not tough at all with the right tools and a book.
Also try searching.
Yeah, buy a manual for sure. Helm is the best. Chilton and Haynes are okay if youre low on cash.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snoochtodanooch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stock replacement rotors are cheap enough to buy as opposed to replace. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Bad advice
Why would you buy new rotors when you can resurface the ones you have and the end result is the same? I'd resurface the rotors when changing the pads, especially if they are warped(your steering wheel shakes when you brake)It's not tough at all with the right tools and a book.
Also try searching.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MR5sARECOOL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Bad advice
Why would you buy new rotors when you can resurface the ones you have and the end result is the same? I'd resurface the rotors when changing the pads, especially if they are warped(your steering wheel shakes when you brake)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
cuz you can swap out the stock rotors for some nice brembo blanks thats why
Bad advice
Why would you buy new rotors when you can resurface the ones you have and the end result is the same? I'd resurface the rotors when changing the pads, especially if they are warped(your steering wheel shakes when you brake)</TD></TR></TABLE>
cuz you can swap out the stock rotors for some nice brembo blanks thats why
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is recommended to always resurface your replacement rotors anyways. </TD></TR></TABLE>
It may be recommended to take a light coating off on the brake lathe, but it's definitely not necessary. If you do end up buying replacement rotors, just wash the friction surfaces with hot soapy water, rinse, and towel dry... then they're ready to install.
It may be recommended to take a light coating off on the brake lathe, but it's definitely not necessary. If you do end up buying replacement rotors, just wash the friction surfaces with hot soapy water, rinse, and towel dry... then they're ready to install.
thanks guys, i think ill give it a try tomorrow or something. Is a c clamp needed for this? Also how hard is it to take out the rotors?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is recommended to always resurface your replacement rotors anyways. </TD></TR></TABLE>
what, even if they're brand new?
what, even if they're brand new?
ok. when doing a brake job it is a must to resurface the rotors. you need to have a good cross hatch pattern on the rotors for the pads to seat. without a proper crosshatch pattern the pads will squeal when you stop. it will be very annoying. i would not trust the local parts house to cut my rotors. you have a guy in there making little or no money and you are trusting your brakes to him. the best advice i can give you is to call around some other independent shops. the shop i work at charges 85.00 plus parts for a front brake resurface, pad swap, and rear adj. if you have drums. its a small price to pay if you are unsure of what you are doing. if your pads are just low, undo the bolt on the calper, replace the pads, have your rotor resurfaced or get a new one, and you can use a rag and a pair of channel locks to push the caliper piston back in.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what, even if they're brand new?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes on some rotors it is necessary to resurface them and they are recommended to do so...but not always necessary.
i usually don't resurface new rotors...just slap them on and spray them down with brake cleaner after im done putting on the new pads and all. Helps gets rid of dirty fingerprints and grease that will cause your brakes to squeak. Always a good idea to clean off surface with brake cleaner after you're done doing them.
Also, the C clamp would work a hell of alot eaiser then the hammer method lol if you don't have the right tool.
Oh and about the resurfacing compared to a new rotor....last i checked...i found rotors for our cars for like 11 bucks new...so i think the real question is...be cheap? or be REAL cheap? Oh well...i'd rather just by the new rotors then gettem' cut. just my .02.
what, even if they're brand new?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes on some rotors it is necessary to resurface them and they are recommended to do so...but not always necessary.
i usually don't resurface new rotors...just slap them on and spray them down with brake cleaner after im done putting on the new pads and all. Helps gets rid of dirty fingerprints and grease that will cause your brakes to squeak. Always a good idea to clean off surface with brake cleaner after you're done doing them.
Also, the C clamp would work a hell of alot eaiser then the hammer method lol if you don't have the right tool.
Oh and about the resurfacing compared to a new rotor....last i checked...i found rotors for our cars for like 11 bucks new...so i think the real question is...be cheap? or be REAL cheap? Oh well...i'd rather just by the new rotors then gettem' cut. just my .02.
if the rotors are brand new i still sand them so the pads can settle in their own way and not follow the record effect.
even after i machine them, i still sand them.
on a scale of 1-10 being the most difficult.
id rate a brake job on a honda/acura at a 3.
the hardest part would be to get the rotors off.
even after i machine them, i still sand them.
on a scale of 1-10 being the most difficult.
id rate a brake job on a honda/acura at a 3.
the hardest part would be to get the rotors off.
wutabout brembo blanks?
i'm pretty dead set on those.
anyone know if they need'a resurfacin?
I'm using the stock cx brakes, they are VVVVVVVVVVERRRRYYY prone
to turning to warped rumbly softness. anything to prevent that is good.
i'm pretty dead set on those.
anyone know if they need'a resurfacin?
I'm using the stock cx brakes, they are VVVVVVVVVVERRRRYYY prone
to turning to warped rumbly softness. anything to prevent that is good.
what i was trying to say earlier was generally, all new rotors do need some sorta resurfacing, whether it's sanding it down by hand, or running a lit buffer over it. But it isn't ALWAYS necessary...so if you do not have the right tools to do so, then you don't have to worry about it. It should be fine, but also keep in mind that this is in reference that you are changing your pads also. And go with the new Ceramic pads out there nowadays. They are a hell of alot better then those other ones out there...(sorry can't think of the name right now) Also, they perform better with less noise, better stoping, and less brake dust (which is always a plus)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicboisi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what i was trying to say earlier was generally, all new rotors do need some sorta resurfacing, whether it's sanding it down by hand, or running a lit buffer over it. But it isn't ALWAYS necessary...so if you do not have the right tools to do so, then you don't have to worry about it. It should be fine, but also keep in mind that this is in reference that you are changing your pads also. And go with the new Ceramic pads out there nowadays. They are a hell of alot better then those other ones out there...(sorry can't think of the name right now) Also, they perform better with less noise, better stoping, and less brake dust (which is always a plus)</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah I was thinking hawk pads.. but need to do more research.
i'm not even going to look into ceramic pads. I don't have to ask to know they cost too much
Anyways, back to the rotors.
so yeah they need some sorta resurfacing,
I have no problem doing it myself, would just hand sanding be safe?
yeah I was thinking hawk pads.. but need to do more research.
i'm not even going to look into ceramic pads. I don't have to ask to know they cost too much

Anyways, back to the rotors.
so yeah they need some sorta resurfacing,
I have no problem doing it myself, would just hand sanding be safe?
yeah doing it by hand would be fine...just make sure you're not sanding the hell outta it...just give it a nice buff as you will...and make sure you clean it off with brake clean before and after you're doing makin your mess...
also...you might wanna reconsider about the pads...considering all the dealerships are using ceramic pads on their newer vehicles now...
Just a thought and they're not too bad...they run like 45 bucks a set or something.
also...you might wanna reconsider about the pads...considering all the dealerships are using ceramic pads on their newer vehicles now...
Just a thought and they're not too bad...they run like 45 bucks a set or something.
Nobody has answered his question about how to get the rotors off yet? I will give you an answer...
There are two Phillips-head style screws holding the rotor flush to the hub. The easiest way to get these out is to use an impact driver. It's like a screwdriver, but you hammer the end of the handle and it turns slightly in whatever direction you have it set to. If you don't have an impact driver, you CAN use a big Phillips screw driver to get these out, I've done it. Your best bet is to use a brand new one so it's not worn out, and push really hard as you're turning it, this way it won't strip the screw.
There are two Phillips-head style screws holding the rotor flush to the hub. The easiest way to get these out is to use an impact driver. It's like a screwdriver, but you hammer the end of the handle and it turns slightly in whatever direction you have it set to. If you don't have an impact driver, you CAN use a big Phillips screw driver to get these out, I've done it. Your best bet is to use a brand new one so it's not worn out, and push really hard as you're turning it, this way it won't strip the screw.
i reccommend getting pads from the dealer always
theyre less harsh on the rotors, and will not squeal like many 30 dollar or cheaper priced brake pads.
and they generally seem to last longer.
even with their lifetime warranties, i still would get from the dealer.
i got my type-r pads from ebay for F&R 75 bucks.
theyre less harsh on the rotors, and will not squeal like many 30 dollar or cheaper priced brake pads.
and they generally seem to last longer.
even with their lifetime warranties, i still would get from the dealer.
i got my type-r pads from ebay for F&R 75 bucks.
Replace all the shims, & pressed metal parts on the calipers. Also you should remove the guide pins & clean and re-lube them & their holes every time you change the brakes. If you don't, eventually they will freeze & your calipers will be garbage. Work on them one at a time (they just pull right out) because they are different & can get mixed up.
Use a little bit of anti-squeal goo on the backs of the pads & the backs of the shims to stick the backs of the pads to the piston & caliper.
Put a little bit of disc brake grease on all those pressed metal sliding surfaces the pads touch (except the rotors duh).
Clean off the rotors w/ brake cleaner.
If the pads fit too tight, don't be affraid to file the ears down.
Buy Good Pads (axxis ultimates) & Brembo blank rotors. Good prices at http://www.nopi.com
Use a little bit of anti-squeal goo on the backs of the pads & the backs of the shims to stick the backs of the pads to the piston & caliper.
Put a little bit of disc brake grease on all those pressed metal sliding surfaces the pads touch (except the rotors duh).
Clean off the rotors w/ brake cleaner.
If the pads fit too tight, don't be affraid to file the ears down.
Buy Good Pads (axxis ultimates) & Brembo blank rotors. Good prices at http://www.nopi.com





