Well, I didn't get a response from the Hybrid section, let's see what happens here.
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Here's the deal, I spun a rod bearing, and I need to bore the block too (oversized pistons). It's just on it's way out, not loud yet, but it'll get there soon.
SO, here's my delema. Do I.......
a) Get another GSR crank and rebuild the engine.
b) Get a B16 crank, and make it a rev monster (poorboy B16B)
c) Get a LS crank, and make it a true LS/VTEC
Now, some of you are probably asking why not just turn the GSR crank. Well it turns out that no one makes oversized bearings for the GSR crank. Once they spin and you have to get the crank turned, there are no bearings available for the GSR to put the rods back in. ( I know, that sucks )
So, I can have a LS crank dropped in, use LS rods on my ITR pistons, and I'll still be able to take it to 9.5k
Or, I can get a B16 crank super cheap, and get CTR rods on my ITR pistons, and have a 11k RPM monster that has no torque at all.
Oh yea, I almost forgot.
GSR after bore and new crank = 1820cc
GSR after bore and LS crank = 1857cc
GSR after bore and B16 crank = 1615cc
Input welcome.
[Modified by B18C-EJ1, 9:37 PM 1/4/2002]
SO, here's my delema. Do I.......
a) Get another GSR crank and rebuild the engine.
b) Get a B16 crank, and make it a rev monster (poorboy B16B)
c) Get a LS crank, and make it a true LS/VTEC
Now, some of you are probably asking why not just turn the GSR crank. Well it turns out that no one makes oversized bearings for the GSR crank. Once they spin and you have to get the crank turned, there are no bearings available for the GSR to put the rods back in. ( I know, that sucks )
So, I can have a LS crank dropped in, use LS rods on my ITR pistons, and I'll still be able to take it to 9.5k
Or, I can get a B16 crank super cheap, and get CTR rods on my ITR pistons, and have a 11k RPM monster that has no torque at all.
Oh yea, I almost forgot.
GSR after bore and new crank = 1820cc
GSR after bore and LS crank = 1857cc
GSR after bore and B16 crank = 1615cc
Input welcome.
[Modified by B18C-EJ1, 9:37 PM 1/4/2002]
I'd definately buy a new (used) GSR crank, and rebuild it. Especially if you drive this car everyday, drag race it, and want it reliable. Build it like Honda intended it (but better) and you can't go wrong.
I agree. GSR used cranks are usually around for $100-200 except when you need one. I assume you will replace the rod also, don't rebuild it.
I've had several cranks machined and haven't had any problems finding the correct sized Honda bearings. Honda makes a TON of different sized bearings, all colour coded, so there will be something that fits your original crank even if you have the journals machined. Whoever is feeding you that information about the bearing size is either making an honest mistake or is trying to sell you a new crank.
Dave
Dave
b16a crank sleeved and bored to a 1.7 with 1.74 r/s now your thinking.
[Modified by rainforest, 1:58 AM 1/6/2002]
[Modified by rainforest, 1:58 AM 1/6/2002]
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This comes directly from my engine builder. I'm already at Blacks, and the next step is blue. Only .01 seperates 2 colors. I need thicker bearings, but no one makes them.
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Although I don't really recommend going non oem bearings, since you seem desperate. an alternative is to spin your crank down and block to one size and run ACL clevite bearings. This is pretty much how most machine shops do it. Just call around until you find a shop familiar with Hondas.
just say no to clevite bearings in a Honda! Ack, blasphemy! New crank, all OEM bearings please. Steph uses OEM bearings, my friend's 670+hp Civic uses OEM bearings, why would YOU need anything else? Do it right the first time so you don't have to do it over again...
I totally believe in running oem also, but he said he can't find a suitable size for his messed up crank. In all honesty I dont think it matters that much. Kubo runs ACL's.
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