All motor jdm d15b
Oka so my motor is finally in and it performs great besides having the stock cx exhaust mani and exhaust.Now i really want to build a quick d15b but im not sure where to start.Right now i have a p28 and an si tranny and thinking of buying a bisi or an-r header and high flow cat and full exhaust system.After that im really not sure on what to do any ideas?.I dont want super fast but something thats quick and can hold its own(looking to run 14.5).
cai, bigger tb, d16y8 im or better, upgrade fuel, pnp head, valve job, mill head but not too much, cam, valve train, crazy looking header, 2.5" straight pipe exhaust, clucth & flywheel, stock bottom
, + hondata, should have pretty quick sock! especially in a cx
, + hondata, should have pretty quick sock! especially in a cx
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: not riding any bandwagons in, massachusetts, usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by orig1nalkhmersta »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> crazy looking header</TD></TR></TABLE>
crazy looking header? is that a technical term or a brand? no wonder so many honda kids have million dollar 15 second cars.
spoonEf-
if you want to make more power you have 4 choices and a lot of variables per choice.
power = bore area x stroke length x brake mean effective pressure x rpm
boring is limited, stroking a d15b that already has a nice 1.585 rod/stroke ratio isnt wise IMO and increasing rpm is to increase tensile stress on the connecting rods/bolts to the second power.
brake mean effective pressure is the downward force exerted on the piston during the power stroke. increasing its peak is not as effective as increasing its duration for torque production. forced induction is generally the easiest with turbocharging being the cheaper of the two. if you are not willing to turbocharge, youll spend a lot of money on upgraded valvetrain to handle big cams that require high rpm operation and will only be more rapid rate of bearing wear and increased rodbolt stress. turbocharge it, use all your stock internals just as they are, keep the redline to stock and you should be able to swing 200 hp under a thousand if you play youre cards right. and with no downtime for sending your motor to anyone, or having someone screwup engine work, etc.
crazy looking header? is that a technical term or a brand? no wonder so many honda kids have million dollar 15 second cars.
spoonEf-
if you want to make more power you have 4 choices and a lot of variables per choice.
power = bore area x stroke length x brake mean effective pressure x rpm
boring is limited, stroking a d15b that already has a nice 1.585 rod/stroke ratio isnt wise IMO and increasing rpm is to increase tensile stress on the connecting rods/bolts to the second power.
brake mean effective pressure is the downward force exerted on the piston during the power stroke. increasing its peak is not as effective as increasing its duration for torque production. forced induction is generally the easiest with turbocharging being the cheaper of the two. if you are not willing to turbocharge, youll spend a lot of money on upgraded valvetrain to handle big cams that require high rpm operation and will only be more rapid rate of bearing wear and increased rodbolt stress. turbocharge it, use all your stock internals just as they are, keep the redline to stock and you should be able to swing 200 hp under a thousand if you play youre cards right. and with no downtime for sending your motor to anyone, or having someone screwup engine work, etc.
my cx ran a 15.837 with shitty tires with my system in.
my mods are
d15b vtec
ex/si tranny
act flywheel
centerforce II clutch
po8 ecu
hp racing header
no name cai
2.25 inch crimp bend exhaust with res and cheap turbo muffler
in my eyes 14.5 to me might be a hard to do with a d15b vtec. cant do anything to the bottom end to them due to lack of support. exospeed cam, a bigger tb along, bisi header, slicks with a gutted hatch could run 14.5
my mods are
d15b vtec
ex/si tranny
act flywheel
centerforce II clutch
po8 ecu
hp racing header
no name cai
2.25 inch crimp bend exhaust with res and cheap turbo muffler
in my eyes 14.5 to me might be a hard to do with a d15b vtec. cant do anything to the bottom end to them due to lack of support. exospeed cam, a bigger tb along, bisi header, slicks with a gutted hatch could run 14.5
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Oka i did a lot of reading and wondering what you guys think.
Y8 Intake mani with the TB bored out to 60mm buy maxbore
Z6 cam gear(aem?)
apexi ws exhaust with car sound 2.25 high flow cat
srr final drive(which should i get)
a lot of tuning buy a good shop around where i live
The problem im having is wether to get a high flow cat or z6 cat mated to an apexi WS or es oval with custom piping.My friend says the high flow cat will cause me to cut the apexi WS just a bit which i dont want to do.Im not sure what to do but i want to have a nice flowing straight through exhaust
Y8 Intake mani with the TB bored out to 60mm buy maxbore
Z6 cam gear(aem?)
apexi ws exhaust with car sound 2.25 high flow cat
srr final drive(which should i get)
a lot of tuning buy a good shop around where i live
The problem im having is wether to get a high flow cat or z6 cat mated to an apexi WS or es oval with custom piping.My friend says the high flow cat will cause me to cut the apexi WS just a bit which i dont want to do.Im not sure what to do but i want to have a nice flowing straight through exhaust
im a fan of tha single cam.so here is my 2cents... c-a-i(injen),4-2-1 header(HP is cheaper but good results)or (dc header),msd 6AL ignition &dizzy &blaster3 coil,pnp gude head w/cam & 61mm throttle body,aem cam gear. this will get u 15 sec. 1/4 mile times.also u can order a custom fit cat.
why stop there,also get ur air manifold port matched to ur head & tb,b sure its a dx or ex manifold.or u can get a skunk2 manifold.RS motorworks ss valves & springs & retainers, arp head studs,mr. gasket or cometic headgasket, fuelpr (holley) aem or b&m, str fuel rail,O yea gude ecu,(comes in a powerpackage wit head,cam,tb)stage 1,2,3. and now 4 tha block,u need to geta d15b7 block yea non-vtec so there easy to get since there a dime a dozen, shot-peened factory rods cost$50 to do and arp rod bolts$35,and forged pistons 11.5:1 is good and a block guard & ur stock crank is good2go.
street & strip
and there's more u can do, a bisi full-race header 4 tha track w/ twm intake manifold w/ dual 44mm weber carbs. all-motor single d15
well thats my input, is that enough haha
one more thing thats most important......money..lots of money..gotta pay 2 play.
why stop there,also get ur air manifold port matched to ur head & tb,b sure its a dx or ex manifold.or u can get a skunk2 manifold.RS motorworks ss valves & springs & retainers, arp head studs,mr. gasket or cometic headgasket, fuelpr (holley) aem or b&m, str fuel rail,O yea gude ecu,(comes in a powerpackage wit head,cam,tb)stage 1,2,3. and now 4 tha block,u need to geta d15b7 block yea non-vtec so there easy to get since there a dime a dozen, shot-peened factory rods cost$50 to do and arp rod bolts$35,and forged pistons 11.5:1 is good and a block guard & ur stock crank is good2go.
street & stripand there's more u can do, a bisi full-race header 4 tha track w/ twm intake manifold w/ dual 44mm weber carbs. all-motor single d15
well thats my input, is that enough haha
one more thing thats most important......money..lots of money..gotta pay 2 play.
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