Can I drop my front crossmember and replace it with a tube one?
Who makes such a thing is it only Jimfab?
I don't want to run traction bars, I was actually thinking about using it to weld a front mount on my swap.

 

Why dont you want traction bars? Jimfab rocks!! Great quality, but its a traction bar. I think place racing is the only one thats not a traction bar.
Ryan

 

yeah why do you not want traction bars?

 

Make your own with parts from chassis-shop. I've got the catalog in .pdf if you want it.

 

Well I don't want traction bars because it is my daily driver nad Jimfab's site says off road use only.

 

Mines a DD, and my jimfab is gunna be here tomorrow!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnnieChimpo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I don't want traction bars because it is my daily driver nad Jimfab's site says off road use only.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Most parts say " for off road use only " its there disclaimer that allows them
to sell non dot approved parts. Traction bars work 100% perfect on the street. You will be happy with the help of traction bars. My Z10s gave me tons more clearance and a big improvement in launching the car and even improvements in handling on the street. Shop around you cant go wrong with a set of traction arms!

 

You got a better pic of where it mounts to the suspension? I bet my buddy could make that! Probably cost me a whole lot less too. Looks just like the top bars of a triangulated 4 link setup.

 

Well this one is made on a JIG and uses CNC aluminum brackets. I can get pics. After the labor involved all the radius arms kits are priced pretty damn good when you factor in the nice welding, materials and fit up.

 

i think Full-Race has the best set up on the market...

Honda CRX Traction Bars
Custom fabricated bolt on traction bars for 1988-1991 CRXs. Full-Race traction bars are designed for street, road, and drag race cars. This part is a must for every driver seeking to increase traction, lower 60 ft times, and eliminate wheel hop.

-Bolt on installation, no welding required.

-Will accomodate large downpipes and or headers.

-Designed with PERFECT suspension geometry, will not cause binding.

-Aluminum knurled radius arms allow for quick and easy caster adjustment.

-Chromoly crossbar is hand fabricated and TIG welded.

Full Race Traction bars are CAD designed. They are engineered with a factor of safety (FOS) of 5.1, meaning they are 5.1 times stronger than they need to be.
this design mounts to the stock traction bar locations..


this design mounts to the tow hooks..

 

http://www.mmrusa.com/dsrcrossmember.htm heres one i came across while i was lookin for 1, dont know good it is but its worth a shot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotommy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think Full-Race has the best set up on the market...
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Full-Race makes a great setup but if your going to post.. Post the apropriate pics.. Your showing an EF & a EG/EK/DC Kit people are going to get confused.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by layed521 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You got a better pic of where it mounts to the suspension? I bet my buddy could make that! Probably cost me a whole lot less too. Looks just like the top bars of a triangulated 4 link setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can use the LCA for attatchment points, but it doesn't matter a ton. The most important attatchment point is on the x-member itself. It must be attatched at the axis of rotation of the LCA. Here is a good site to read for info on how the full-race is designed.

http://full-race.com/traction-bars-article.htm

Also, check out this catalog for EVERYTHING you need to build your own kit.

http://chassisshop.com/pdf/200...g.pdf

I haven't calculated it out completely, but I think you could build your own for under $150 pretty easily.

 

Full Race

 

ive made 2 prototype crossmembers and am finalizing the design of number 3 soon. if youve ever cut open an EF unibody, youd see that the towhook holes are not bossed as heavily as the factory crossmember bolts underneath. the longer the bar, the less arc deflection (inducing caster change) during suspension articulation. ive mounted to the shockbolt junction of the LCA before and my bars rubbed badly at full lock. i think that you gotta go to the factory radius arm holes if you want lock to lock on chubby tires.

ive been studying them all, and have nothing to gain by saying i think the z10 is superior to all ive seen. it mounts underneath and to to the towhooks last time i checked, as well as having full lock to lock clearance on any tire combo.

 

while it wont provide as long a bar or as much clearance, the full race piece pictured first looks good. i would never mount strictly to the towhooks like the photo after it

 

JimFab! Best on the market, search google, there are several comparison articles to other bars.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NikoZai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JimFab! Best on the market, search google, there are several comparison articles to other bars. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Peter is Jims spokesperson!! HAHAHA, ya the quality is excellent. Mine should be here any day now, ill do a writeup and post how it preforms.

 

jimfab has a great bar, but its lacking in the clearance department. i have one and clearance is pretty bad even with a stock header. 4-1 headers just wont fit. my next bar will be the full-race bar.

 

Sorry for the dumb questin, but who makes the traction bar thats compatible w/ the eg rad.? please post pics of it. And also thats a + for getting a traction bar for clearance..that sux if ur still having clearance problems like the oem x-member And how much the full race bars???

 

theres alot of traction bars. z10, jimfab, L-con, full race. probably a few more im forgeting.

i would recommend L-con or full race, maybe L-con because you can get them with tow hooks for dyno and towing and you can get them with the half radiator mount so you can use 5th gen radiators. as far as i know, full race doesnt come with hooks, but probably does come with the half radiator mount, again dont know for sure

 

i chose the jim fab and i was scared i was going to have clearance problems with my downpipe and oil lines but it turns out i didn't. i have my homemade stainelss downpipe concept done and so i had to see what the fitment is going to be like with the jimfab. this is a great looking piece and i think it will perform as well as it looks. we will see soon. here are a few clearance pics for you boosted fellas out there...don't mind the bolts not being tightened and missing parts.

 

I have an avid one. It took 5 months of hassle to get. They sent an EG one first, and when I freeked they forgot to send me the proper one for a week. When it finally came (I had prepaid in full) it contained no instructions, or anything indentifying that it was an Avid traction bar. It looked like a brown box special. It came spray bombed black, and not anodized gunmetal as was promised. I called and e-mailed several times asking for instuctions before getting fed up and installing it myself. I had to spend $20 on fasteners because the kit never came with it. I installed it incorrectly and bent one of the radius arms. I called him to advise them about another issue with a customers shift linkage and they said they would send me out another arm (I even said I don't need the Hymes and that I would pay for it, but he insisted). I warrantied my customers shift linkage and tried to contact Avid to follow up as was discussed, but they never returned my calls or e-mails. That was 4 months ago. I have since given up on Avid. I bent over backwards to support a Canadian company that was being pushed. I was mocked by my friends that had owned EF's for years, but I insisted that they were a good company. I got burned and embarassed to lend my name to such a terrible company. I would never sell an Avid product again unless the customer was insistant. I also have a set of their mounts in my car (which were given to me) that I don't like. Bolts on them keep backing out. They ahve since released an updated version of their mounts that are billet instead of cast that I have. I havn't discussed this problem with them because the mounts were given to me, and it may be installer error (I doubt it; as combined we [my friends and I] have over 30 swaps combined); but the traction bars seemed to give me good traction even with a bent arm. I just would've liked a lot better customer service.
/end customer service story

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by japrex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i chose the jim fab and i was scared i was going to have clearance problems with my downpipe and oil lines but it turns out i didn't.

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Doesnt look like the Jim fab will work with a 4-1 header also doesnt look
like you can adjust the radius rods without taking them off the car?

 

japrex, im just curious. it looks like your oil feed enters the BOTTOM of the chra, and the return is coming out the top?