hey is it extremly hard 2 make a frankensein motor that is reliable. because frankly (HHAHA) im tired of seeing B18 blocks in every single swaped honda civic hb so im going to do B20 block B16a1 or a2 head is this very hard any advice would be great

 

personally never done it, but there is plenty of info on this site all you have to do is search.


Modified by white ex at 7:46 PM 12/16/2004

 

Due to the thinner cylinder walls and higher rotating mass, the B20 won't be as reliable for high-RPM use as the other blocks. I'm not saying it isn't reliable, just that physics dictates not as much so as the others.

As far as setting it up it's just like an LS/VTEC. Might be good to unshroud the valves in the chamber for the large bore.

 

Actually the b20 sleeves are thicker, it's the design that makes them weak.

Here is a little info on b20 sleeves... http://dwolsten.tripod.com/articles/jan96a.html

 

Interesting read...so really there's just no cast aluminum webbing between the sleeve material. All in all though, you have the same bore centerline and a 3.5mm larger bore, so there is definitely less material between pistons, regardless of what material they chose to fill it with...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by klungemonger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Interesting read...so really there's just no cast aluminum webbing between the sleeve material. All in all though, you have the same bore centerline and a 3.5mm larger bore, so there is definitely less material between pistons, regardless of what material they chose to fill it with...</TD></TR></TABLE>

True however most motors that I see blow crack either on the front or back, not on the sides near the pistons so that point is mute. The reason being is most of the pressure is placed on the front and back of the sleeve due to the rotation where the B20 is thicker than the standard B18 block. The reason why people have issues is no crank girdle, no oil squirters for the sleeves, plus variety of other variables. Aslo it is a 3mm difference on bore size, 81mm versus 84mm.

I have over 40k+ on my B20 vtec and it has never had a problem. Build it right the first time and your good to go. This car however is my daily driver and I don't get on it all the time.

 

i have b20b with b16a2 head. very torquey (dont know how to spell) lots of fun.

 

If u r gonna do this swap... do it right. B20Z sleeves r thicker and more reliable than the B20B [which is a B18 bored out to 84mm]. If u go w/ the B make sure u sleeve it first. Just don't go revving the hell out of the Z and use VTEC oil and water pumps and u should be allright. If u go w/ the B and sleeve it though it will be damn near bulletproof. I've done 2 of these builds for friends and they have had no problems... u just have to do it right.
One of the swaps I did was great... my friend had VTEC oil squirters installed, ARP hardware all over, Shaved all the plugs in the block that accessed oil channels, put in a GSR girdle, and had the block machined to accept the stock VTEC oil cooler and also machined it to breathe out of the block to relieve crank case pressure. A very sweet motor.

 

nice thanx 4 the help im only 17 years old and kinda low on the tender do you reccomed me trying to build this motor because it sounds fairly complicated

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blk92civichb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice thanx 4 the help im only 17 years old and kinda low on the tender do you reccomed me trying to build this motor because it sounds fairly complicated</TD></TR></TABLE>

I recommend that you swallow any thoughts of originality and put a B18B in your car. Down the road you can turbocharge it. See, everybody and his mom might have a B-series engine, but very few of those people run 12's

 

hell yea very very true