cv joints- popping sound when making hard left turns only
my car has been making fast popping sounds when making a hard left hand tunr only, not right hand turns.
i jacked up the car today to check the cv joints and there is no visible tears or problems wit any of the rubber boots or anything, everythign appears to be fine. i did notice some grease on parts around the area of the joints but there was nothing indicating to me that it had come from the rubber boots on the axles.
is there anything else that could cause this? would it be worth it to take it somewhere and have them pack the joints with grease again? Is it even possible to jsut repack the grease or am i goning to need brand new axles or waht?im baffled and want to get this **** fixed asap, gimme some insight.
i jacked up the car today to check the cv joints and there is no visible tears or problems wit any of the rubber boots or anything, everythign appears to be fine. i did notice some grease on parts around the area of the joints but there was nothing indicating to me that it had come from the rubber boots on the axles.
is there anything else that could cause this? would it be worth it to take it somewhere and have them pack the joints with grease again? Is it even possible to jsut repack the grease or am i goning to need brand new axles or waht?im baffled and want to get this **** fixed asap, gimme some insight.
How long has it been doing it. If you started noticing it over a week ago your gonna have to change thaty bitch
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by md23vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most likely it is the left outer joint. Stock Honda shafts or aftermarket?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had that problem (still do
) before I changed my
left axle and I still have it now.
I believe my problem is the intermediate shaft bearing
where the left axle connects to it.
See if they're is any play there as well.
I had that problem (still do
) before I changed my left axle and I still have it now.
I believe my problem is the intermediate shaft bearing
where the left axle connects to it.
See if they're is any play there as well.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chase »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you raise the front wheels off the ground and grab onto the axle and give it a good shake, you should be able to feel some play if the cv is shot. I've never gotten a new cv alone, i just replace the entire half-shaft. If its a metal on metal sorta "popping" that you're hearing, grease wont help you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn, you should've replaced them when you did the swap.
Did you use the axles that came with the swap??? I had the axles that came with my swap tested before I did my swap. The axles that came with the car were bad.
I would get rebuilt axles. They are only $120-$130 after you return the core axles.
Damn, you should've replaced them when you did the swap.
Did you use the axles that came with the swap??? I had the axles that came with my swap tested before I did my swap. The axles that came with the car were bad.
I would get rebuilt axles. They are only $120-$130 after you return the core axles.
did you check your hub the bearing could be going. yes you can just replace the cv boot. they just pack it with grease and put a new boot on.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Damn, you should've replaced them when you did the swap.
Did you use the axles that came with the swap??? I had the axles that came with my swap tested before I did my swap. The axles that came with the car were bad.
I would get rebuilt axles. They are only $120-$130 after you return the core axles.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea, im using the axels that came wit the swap, thign that is pissing me off is i cant find my old h23 axels
and yea the popping is coming from right side (passenger side) as far as i can tell.
the prelude curse lives on
Damn, you should've replaced them when you did the swap.
Did you use the axles that came with the swap??? I had the axles that came with my swap tested before I did my swap. The axles that came with the car were bad.
I would get rebuilt axles. They are only $120-$130 after you return the core axles.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea, im using the axels that came wit the swap, thign that is pissing me off is i cant find my old h23 axels

and yea the popping is coming from right side (passenger side) as far as i can tell.
the prelude curse lives on
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spn_BB2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the prelude curse lives on
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't think it is a curse that is causing these problems. I think you cut corners and assumed too much.
Clutch, axles, seals, water pump, and timing belt are the VERY least you should change before you swap a motor in. Did you change any of these parts before the motor went in??
My motor was considered, "Low mileage". Bullshyt!! The clutch and axles were TOAST when I got it. Honestly, the JDM motors are beat. They are low mileage, but they have city miles on them. City miles are NOT good. Plus, since people expect to swap out the motor in the near future, they don't take care of them. You have to assume the worst and change as much as you can before the swap goes into the car.
Anyway, if you see a sign of leaky boots, assume that the axles are bad. Just get a rebuilt set.
Good luck.
the prelude curse lives on
</TD></TR></TABLE>I don't think it is a curse that is causing these problems. I think you cut corners and assumed too much.
Clutch, axles, seals, water pump, and timing belt are the VERY least you should change before you swap a motor in. Did you change any of these parts before the motor went in??
My motor was considered, "Low mileage". Bullshyt!! The clutch and axles were TOAST when I got it. Honestly, the JDM motors are beat. They are low mileage, but they have city miles on them. City miles are NOT good. Plus, since people expect to swap out the motor in the near future, they don't take care of them. You have to assume the worst and change as much as you can before the swap goes into the car.
Anyway, if you see a sign of leaky boots, assume that the axles are bad. Just get a rebuilt set.
Good luck.
i changed everything you mentoined but the seals during my swap. there is absolutely nothing wrong with the motor, it put down 180 whp and 147 lb/tq with only intake/dc header/ exhaust and im confident it will break into 13 second passes with better tires. i was running 14.2 with no launch cause of dry rotted tires on stock wheels. i have 8 lb wheels and azenis being shipped to me so im expecting some 13.8(i/h/e) runs when the tracks open back up.
the prelude curse is hte little things, bolts breaking when working on the car, screw getting messed up when changing my rotors, than the master cylionder going up, and now cv joints...
i guess in the end it could all be considered normal wear and tear though,
o well, ill keep the post updated later on when i get this fixed
the prelude curse is hte little things, bolts breaking when working on the car, screw getting messed up when changing my rotors, than the master cylionder going up, and now cv joints...
i guess in the end it could all be considered normal wear and tear though,

o well, ill keep the post updated later on when i get this fixed
mine make a popping noise when I step on the gas at low speeds. I got new ones when I did my swap and they have done it for about a year. It happens when I hit the gas at about 25, it makes a pop and then pops when I slow back down then pops again when I speed up. I really don't know what the **** is going on with them
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spn_BB2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i changed everything you mentoined but the seals during my swap. there is absolutely nothing wrong with the motor, it put down 180 whp and 147 lb/tq with only intake/dc header/ exhaust and im confident it will break into 13 second passes with better tires. i was running 14.2 with no launch cause of dry rotted tires on stock wheels. i have 8 lb wheels and azenis being shipped to me so im expecting some 13.8(i/h/e) runs when the tracks open back up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cough cough...Bullshit
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cough cough...Bullshit
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chase »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah, oil changes are not common practice in Japan...and why would they be? I wouldn't change mine either, and I'd drive the snot out of my engine too If i lived there.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup. I am worried about the JDM motor I get for my 240SX. I bet MANY will have been used for some type of drifting. All I can do is take my chances, change as many parts as I can, and hope for the best as I did with my H22.
Yeah, oil changes are not common practice in Japan...and why would they be? I wouldn't change mine either, and I'd drive the snot out of my engine too If i lived there.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yup. I am worried about the JDM motor I get for my 240SX. I bet MANY will have been used for some type of drifting. All I can do is take my chances, change as many parts as I can, and hope for the best as I did with my H22.
What about your swaybar linkage¿ It could be that the ball at the end of the joint is bad, just a suggestion. Also make sure your balljoints are not leaking any oil. If it is happening just through corners, it most likely is your cv joint.
Good luck!
Good luck!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spn_BB2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i changed everything you mentoined but the seals during my swap. there is absolutely nothing wrong with the motor, it put down 180 whp and 147 lb/tq with only intake/dc header/ exhaust and im confident it will break into 13 second passes with better tires. i was running 14.2 with no launch cause of dry rotted tires on stock wheels. i have 8 lb wheels and azenis being shipped to me so im expecting some 13.8(i/h/e) runs when the tracks open back up.
</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Cough cough...Bullshit
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i can back up everything hes saying about the times and things that were changed during the swap and HP and torque numbers.
</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Cough cough...Bullshit
</TD></TR></TABLE>i can back up everything hes saying about the times and things that were changed during the swap and HP and torque numbers.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spn_BB2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright, i finally found my h23 axles, but without going out to the car and looking(cold and icy), how do i get the axle seperated from the hub? </TD></TR></TABLE>
You'll have to take the spindle nut off and you're gonna
need a high powered air gun to do that.
You'll have to take the spindle nut off and you're gonna
need a high powered air gun to do that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would get rebuilt axles. They are only $120-$130 after you return the core axles.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cough, cough (ripoff!!) O'reilleys sells them for $60 after core return, definately the way I would go
4' long cheater bar also works for that hubnut
then just get a prybar or screwdriver and pop that badboy out of the transaxle, good luck.
K
I would get rebuilt axles. They are only $120-$130 after you return the core axles.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cough, cough (ripoff!!) O'reilleys sells them for $60 after core return, definately the way I would go
4' long cheater bar also works for that hubnut
then just get a prybar or screwdriver and pop that badboy out of the transaxle, good luck.K
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lilshady6796
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