well, may be like a yr back I bought a pair of big rotors for my si. but then I crashed and I keept them and I figured I could use it with my next car. Well, I got a 96 hatch and I try to install them today... but I came with the trouble that the caliper doesnt match at all... I know you have the extention plate but even with that I couldnt manage to ge the caliper in place. Is there a difference in rotor from a 00 civic si to a 96 civic HB? whatever help you can give me... woulb be greatly apretiated.

thanks guys


here is a pic of the rotor

 

Those rotors aren't going to do you any good at all. Put your stockers back on and sell them to a ricer who doesn't know any better.

 

really? how come?

 

well, but besides how can I do to fit them? any ideas?

 

U need Si/GSR/EX calipers and spindles....right now u have DX ones and those have different calipers and mounting points for the calipers on the spindle

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg cookiemonster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">U need Si/GSR/EX calipers and spindles....right now u have DX ones and those have different calipers and mounting points for the calipers on the spindle</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmm do you think is worth doing it? I guess I could go with ex as it will be cheaper. right?

 

sell them to me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gtgoku &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">really? how come?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Larger rotors with unchanged clamping force (calipers) means more inertial mass to deal with upon deceleration. The cross-drilling and slots in the rotors will keep them cooler during road racing, but on the street they'll simply eat your pads three times as fast as a regular rotor.

Sell them and buy a full GSR brake upgrade.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Larger rotors with unchanged clamping force (calipers) means more inertial mass to deal with upon deceleration. The cross-drilling and slots in the rotors will keep them cooler during road racing, but on the street they'll simply eat your pads three times as fast as a regular rotor.

Sell them and buy a full GSR brake upgrade.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ditto

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R-starr* &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sell them to me </TD></TR></TABLE>

well, throw an offer.

 

well?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gtgoku &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well?</TD></TR></TABLE>


I would take them and give you an offer but after reading that Louie scam thread...let me think about it.

 

you can also get brakes from an ex cause there the same sixe as gsr's just make sure you get the whole knuckles and mc

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Larger rotors with unchanged clamping force (calipers) means more inertial mass to deal with upon deceleration. The cross-drilling and slots in the rotors will keep them cooler during road racing, but on the street they'll simply eat your pads three times as fast as a regular rotor.</TD></TR></TABLE>



Guess you don't know the four areas to improve braking performance.

Changing the effective clamping radius is one area to improve braking performance, hence why AEM has the kit. Its basic physics. Sure, there is more rotational mass, but it also uses a aluminum hat vs. an all steel stock rotor.

Cross-drilled and slotted rotors don't eat pads three times as fast, I doubt its twice as fast. A little over exagerated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gtgoku &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there a difference in rotor from a 00 civic si to a 96 civic HB? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, only the 96-00 EX and 99-00 Si, and integra front brakes are interchangable. I don't know the exact difference, but they are different.

 

The piston size in the SI caliper is a little larger, otherwise, rotor diameter is the same.

 

[QUOTE=Archidictus]
The cross-drilling and slots in the rotors will keep them cooler during road racing, [\QUOTE]

Thats not true either, cross drilling was never done for cooling it was done to let the gas escape from older designed pads that out gassed everytime they got hot, cross drilling actually hurts colling as you have removed mass from the rotor, and makes the roter weaker and more likely to crack.

 

And slots serve a function as well, help keep the pads fresh. With my big brake kit I didn't go thru pads that fast, I had em on for 25k miles and only changed them since I wanted different ones.

 

i agree with the gsr upgrade but the key essential ingredient to improve stopping power is tires. why the hell would you have massive brakes on a light-*** car? you need smaller (realitivley speaking) with sticky *** tires. if your just clamping the **** out of your rotors and causing the brakes to lock you lose all of the benefits of a brake upgrade. and with larger rotor you need more effective clamping force to create enough friction to stop. that also equals more pedal effort and a reduction in pedal modulation. so why don't just go with a tried and tested brake modification?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Solracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[QUOTE=Archidictus]
The cross-drilling and slots in the rotors will keep them cooler during road racing, [\QUOTE]

Thats not true either, cross drilling was never done for cooling it was done to let the gas escape from older designed pads that out gassed everytime they got hot, cross drilling actually hurts colling as you have removed mass from the rotor, and makes the roter weaker and more likely to crack.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you serious? is that true?

fawk, Im a big fan of standard blank rotors,
and thought of slotted/xdrilled as a bit of a novelty.
I assumed they worked better for cooling.. just not enough to warrant the extra $$.

and xdrilled was actually my fav. visually.
Is what you said true about any xdrilled rotor? or just the honda ones?

cuz my buddy just got some stock replacement xdrilled on his gti vr6

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you serious? is that true?

fawk, Im a big fan of standard blank rotors,
and thought of slotted/xdrilled as a bit of a novelty.
I assumed they worked better for cooling.. just not enough to warrant the extra $$.

and xdrilled was actually my fav. visually.
Is what you said true about any xdrilled rotor? or just the honda ones?

cuz my buddy just got some stock replacement xdrilled on his gti vr6</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes it is true most mondern brake pads do not out gas when out so they is no need for cross-drilling, most semi-pro racers I know use non cross drilled rotors because they do not improve thier braking to warrent the extra money they cost, most of them use OEM brembo's or Autozone rotors. Some Cars come from the factory with cross drilled rotors but as you said that is more of a novelty/looks thing. Some Pro Race teams will use cross drilled to save weight since they run a large wheel meet the spec tire requirements, and they of course can afford to reaplace rotors every race. Most grassroots/semi pro road races I know think they are not worht the extra headache for the price and the idea that they could crack and filed due to the cross-drilling.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Solracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes it is true most mondern brake pads do not out gas when out so they is no need for cross-drilling, most semi-pro racers I know use non cross drilled rotors because they do not improve thier braking to warrent the extra money they cost, most of them use OEM brembo's or Autozone rotors. Some Cars come from the factory with cross drilled rotors but as you said that is more of a novelty/looks thing. Some Pro Race teams will use cross drilled to save weight since they run a large wheel meet the spec tire requirements, and they of course can afford to reaplace rotors every race. Most grassroots/semi pro road races I know think they are not worht the extra headache for the price and the idea that they could crack and filed due to the cross-drilling.</TD></TR></TABLE>

aahhh, good to know, thanks.
I think I might keep that info from my buddy.. heh..
i woulda told him not to get em in the first place if he had asked me.
oh well his bad
ima pick up some brembo blanks pretty soon myself.

 

I have the aem kit on my 2000 si. When fitting the caliper onto the new mounts i had to grind a little off of the caliper a very small amount on each corner for it to fit. It says to do this right in the install directions for the kit not sure if this is your problem but it might be. I installed the kit and used hawk pads and IMO the car stops a hell of a lot faster over stock. I also used power slot rear rotors with hawk pads and earls stainless lines all around. Awesome improvement over stock almost stops too good over stock.

 

the x drilled holes are to reduce mass weight and have nothing to do with cooling or gas release.

the slots are for the gases produced by the heat to expand with out reducing clamping force (thats what we call brake fade, of course you have the fluid aspect as well that direclty relates the density of the fluid in comparison to the boiling point).

the down fall to this design is the integrity of the rotor being reduced by the all the freaking holes drilled in it...it makes it very succeptable to warpage.

the advantage...would definately be the material in which it is constructed and the slots for the gas expansion...and yes there are gases contrary to the popular belief...the heat produced between the carbon/kevlar based pad and the steel produces is a very aggressive expansion of gasses. so my advice for after market rotors would be slotted and stay away from cross drilled if you plan to auto-x. if not its an advantage due to the increased mass you added to the rotational equation. and I would prefer Rotora or stoptech over aem any day.

 

defently not worth it to get the slotted, X drilled or even the high end rotors.


you can get some cheap O rotor's for 30 bucks up front and they will last you at least 1 full weekend of HPDEing. If your eating up rotors faster then that or even at that rate, you need to add some ducting.


And really if this is just your DD auto X you just need something that can lock up the tires that all nothing more