Building my car and fabricating parts...need some input.
I'm starting to put my "project" car together and I'm really excited all except for the part that its going to take FOREVER to do it the way I want it done. So let it be.
First subject. My roll cage. I have perfect access to Mild steel tubing that is the correct thickness with a bender and a pipe notcher. So there is no reason not to build my own. I've never built a roll cage before, but going from S&W's design I can't imagine it being too difficult. Should I make my own or buy the S&W cage for 250 plus shipping? I'm going to TIG the cage. Should I rattle can the main tubes outside the car? and then spray the joints after its welded? I see how all the race cars have their cages painted when the car is painted...but my car has already been painted so boo hoo. Any suggestions on what to do to make it look nice?
Also I want to go from my air to air intercooler to a liquid to air IC, but Im unsure about sizing. What size core do you think should be sufficient for a dailied 450+ whp car? Also being as I will drag race this car quite often what size reservoir should I have? Does anyone know where to get a good deal on an electric water pump that flows around 10GPH for the liquid to air? My turbo would be about 7" from the liquid to air and the TB is about 16 inches from the IC. So I could run a 2.5" staight tube from the compressor with a wiggins clamp, and then run a 4" outlet with another wiggins clamp to my TB(105mm Mustang TB)
Then comes the battery relocation... I have to get my battery somewhere else since my turbo occupies the location of my previous battery(no I dont have a honda sorry) I'm looking at the Summit catalog and seeing their marine plastic battery container and relocation kit. 45 bucks aint bad, but is that legal for NHRA with out a firewall between me and it? Also...I could probably make one cheaper, but Im not sure how I would make the aluminum box....im just not sure whats all entailed in making a proper battery tray. I can make a box out of aluminum no problem, but what about the terminals and ****, etc.
I found some badass injector boss's and holders on http://www.sdsefi.com for 35 dollars a piece...they're expensive but really nice. I think I will use those with some velocity stacks from Kinsler or Full-Race for my intake manifold. that would be the pimpest manifold I've made yet.
With my Standalone that im running (SDS EM-3F) it has no provisions for brake lights headlights etc. Since my car will be daily driven, yet I do not wish to keep the HUGE ******* wiring that comes with the car for such simple tasks....I think I could wire up my own setup. Does anyone have a link to a how-to-wire you car? I know that Painless sells kits for exorbent amounts of money...Id like to get that kind of quality, yet do it myself.
also....where can I find a decent 4" filter to fit over my S compressor housing? Id put a piece of that screen on there, but Im not sure how the dirt will treat the compressor blade at mach2.
SOOOO much **** to do....so little time.
First subject. My roll cage. I have perfect access to Mild steel tubing that is the correct thickness with a bender and a pipe notcher. So there is no reason not to build my own. I've never built a roll cage before, but going from S&W's design I can't imagine it being too difficult. Should I make my own or buy the S&W cage for 250 plus shipping? I'm going to TIG the cage. Should I rattle can the main tubes outside the car? and then spray the joints after its welded? I see how all the race cars have their cages painted when the car is painted...but my car has already been painted so boo hoo. Any suggestions on what to do to make it look nice?
Also I want to go from my air to air intercooler to a liquid to air IC, but Im unsure about sizing. What size core do you think should be sufficient for a dailied 450+ whp car? Also being as I will drag race this car quite often what size reservoir should I have? Does anyone know where to get a good deal on an electric water pump that flows around 10GPH for the liquid to air? My turbo would be about 7" from the liquid to air and the TB is about 16 inches from the IC. So I could run a 2.5" staight tube from the compressor with a wiggins clamp, and then run a 4" outlet with another wiggins clamp to my TB(105mm Mustang TB)
Then comes the battery relocation... I have to get my battery somewhere else since my turbo occupies the location of my previous battery(no I dont have a honda sorry) I'm looking at the Summit catalog and seeing their marine plastic battery container and relocation kit. 45 bucks aint bad, but is that legal for NHRA with out a firewall between me and it? Also...I could probably make one cheaper, but Im not sure how I would make the aluminum box....im just not sure whats all entailed in making a proper battery tray. I can make a box out of aluminum no problem, but what about the terminals and ****, etc.
I found some badass injector boss's and holders on http://www.sdsefi.com for 35 dollars a piece...they're expensive but really nice. I think I will use those with some velocity stacks from Kinsler or Full-Race for my intake manifold. that would be the pimpest manifold I've made yet.
With my Standalone that im running (SDS EM-3F) it has no provisions for brake lights headlights etc. Since my car will be daily driven, yet I do not wish to keep the HUGE ******* wiring that comes with the car for such simple tasks....I think I could wire up my own setup. Does anyone have a link to a how-to-wire you car? I know that Painless sells kits for exorbent amounts of money...Id like to get that kind of quality, yet do it myself.
also....where can I find a decent 4" filter to fit over my S compressor housing? Id put a piece of that screen on there, but Im not sure how the dirt will treat the compressor blade at mach2.
SOOOO much **** to do....so little time.
If you can get the steel cheap and have access to a bender. It's really just a matter of if you want to be able to say "I made it" other than "I welded it". I get satisfaction making my own stuff, that and I'm cheap. 
If you have the patience, then do it yourself, but keep in mind its not going to just fall into place. You'll probably bend in the wrong spot afew times etc. But by doing it yourself you can get as close to a perfect fit vs. the mass manufactured "kits".
And as far as painting goes, paint it outside of the car and then use sheets or something to protect the rest of the paint from overspray. This way at least you aren't spraying the whole thing inside the car vs. just the weld joints.
As far as the other stuff, I can give you my opinion, but have no facts to back them up. All I can say is search the archived posts for what has worked for others.

If you have the patience, then do it yourself, but keep in mind its not going to just fall into place. You'll probably bend in the wrong spot afew times etc. But by doing it yourself you can get as close to a perfect fit vs. the mass manufactured "kits".
And as far as painting goes, paint it outside of the car and then use sheets or something to protect the rest of the paint from overspray. This way at least you aren't spraying the whole thing inside the car vs. just the weld joints.
As far as the other stuff, I can give you my opinion, but have no facts to back them up. All I can say is search the archived posts for what has worked for others.
In my friends fc we just put the battery behind the passenger seat to offset driver weight and we used a Marine plastic battery box. Unfortunately for NHRA they are not legal, but in most SCCA Auto-x(Regional events) classes they will let you run them. They have let me run them at least.
Also i noticed you wanted to do a liquid to air and daily drive it? Those dont belong in the same sentance.
Also i noticed you wanted to do a liquid to air and daily drive it? Those dont belong in the same sentance.
Read... HEAT EXCHANGER.
By putting a heat exchanger after the LAI the heat is given off via a radiator like heat exchanger. Making it possible. However I will entertain your comment and ask that you explain how this will not work with the described setup.
By putting a heat exchanger after the LAI the heat is given off via a radiator like heat exchanger. Making it possible. However I will entertain your comment and ask that you explain how this will not work with the described setup.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Matt_sb2004 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also I want to go from my air to air intercooler to a liquid to air IC, but Im unsure about sizing. What size core do you think should be sufficient for a dailied 450+ whp car? Also being as I will drag race this car quite often what size reservoir should I have? Does anyone know where to get a good deal on an electric water pump that flows around 10GPH for the liquid to air? My turbo would be about 7" from the liquid to air and the TB is about 16 inches from the IC. So I could run a 2.5" staight tube from the compressor with a wiggins clamp, and then run a 4" outlet with another wiggins clamp to my TB(105mm Mustang TB)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Firts of all I dont see HEAT EXCHANGER anywhere in that paragraph bitch, so in fact your the incompetent dipshit who needs to READ.
Second of all I dont see any point in daily driving a car with a LAI when after the system warms up is going to be warmer than ambient air anyway. The only point i see to a LAI is at the track with ice cold water.
This is my INPUT... This is what you asked for right? I've noticed that your notorious for being a dick around these boards...Goto Rx7club or nopistons with that ****...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Firts of all I dont see HEAT EXCHANGER anywhere in that paragraph bitch, so in fact your the incompetent dipshit who needs to READ.
Second of all I dont see any point in daily driving a car with a LAI when after the system warms up is going to be warmer than ambient air anyway. The only point i see to a LAI is at the track with ice cold water.
This is my INPUT... This is what you asked for right? I've noticed that your notorious for being a dick around these boards...Goto Rx7club or nopistons with that ****...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Matt_sb2004 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I found some badass injector boss's and holders on http://www.sdsefi.com for 35 dollars a piece...they're expensive but really nice. I think I will use those with some velocity stacks from Kinsler or Full-Race for my intake manifold. that would be the pimpest manifold I've made yet.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That guy I was telling you about, the guy I'm doing some work with who has the 4 axis haas, he is the one making thoes for sds
That guy I was telling you about, the guy I'm doing some work with who has the 4 axis haas, he is the one making thoes for sds
remember...there is also a matt_sb2000....I rarely post. I think some of you may have me confused with my friend matt. thanks any way.
-Eric
-Eric
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