I was wondering if anyone could give me any tips on what to do and what not to do when installing these cams. I have read the crower cam install instructions but im still not sure if this is everything I need to do. Can anyone help me step by step what to do. I did a search but I cant find anything usefull. Please help any knowledge is appreciated.

 

Remember to put the rockers in the exact same spot if your not doing a valve adjustment right away!

 

How do I put in the cams correctly? How do I install the cams so they dont make the valves hit the pistons? I want to avoid claying the motor. So can I just put the cams in and leave everything set at 0 ? Can I just install 404 cams and not worry about valve clearance?

 

Im pretty sure you can - well i know you can I did. I threw my cams in without claying or checking because I didn't have time to take the head off. Im pretty sure i dont got any bent valves and I got 33mm Intake valves. Stock b20b bottome end.

 

If you havent installed cam before it not hard but make sure you have manual on hand and follow the directions. The main thing you need to when installing cams is make sure cam has assembly lube on it before install and to set the valve clearances after installing; dont just slap them in there. Also make sure you have plenty of oil, the first 30 minutes with these cams is crucial.

 

manual is a must....

 

they have instructions posted on the crower website. but im not sure if thats all i need to do. also how do i set the valve clearance?

 

These are the instructions that are listed on the crower website. does anyone have anything to add? also how do i adjust the valve lash? any knowledge is appreciated.

CAMSHAFT INSTALLATION B18A / B18B TWIN CAM NON-VTEC
1. CAREFULLY INSPECT CAMSHAFT FOR ANY DAMAGE THAT MAY HAVE OCCURRED
DURING SHIPMENT. ALSO INSPECT BEARING CAPS AND CYLINDER HEAD FOR EXCESSIVE
CAM JOURNAL WEAR.
2. CLEAN AND INSPECT ROCKER ARM FOLLOWERS FOR ANY WEAR OR DAMAGE.
ROCKER ARM CONTACT SURFACE MUST BE EXTREMELY SMOOTH AND FREE FROM
OR ANY SIGNS OF WEAR. REPLACE IF NEEDED.
3. RELAX ALL ROCKER ARM ADJUSTERS. PLACE THE ROCKER ARMS ON THE PIVOT
***** AND THE VALVE STEMS.
4. APPLY CROWER RED CAMSHAFT AND LIFTER PRELUBE TO ALL JOURNALS,
CAMSHAFT LOBES AND FOLLOWERS.
5. CAREFULLY INSTALL CAMSHAFTS WITH KEYWAY FACING UP.
6. INSTALL NEW OIL SEAL WITH THE SPRING SIDE FACING IN. THE OIL SEAL HOUSING
SHOULD BE CLEAN AND DRY.
7. APPLY LIQUID GASKET TO THE HEAD MATING SURFACE OF THE #1 AND #6
CAMSHAFT BEARING CAPS. CAREFULLY INSTALL #1 - #6 CAM CAPS. (THE ARROWS
ON THE CAPS SHOULD POINT TOWARDS THE TIMING BELT.)
8. TEMPORARILY TIGHTEN THE BOLTS BY HAND. (APPLY ENGINE OIL TO THREADS)
9. PUSH THE CAM OIL SEALS SECURELY AGAINST THE BASE OF THE CAM CAP.
10. TIGHTEN AND TORQUE THE BOLTS EVENLY AND IN A CRISSCROSS PATTERN
BEGINNING IN THE MIDDLE.
TORQUE SPECS:
6 x 1.0 MM
9.8N-m (7.2 FT LBS.
11. INSTALL THE CAMSHAFT PULLEYS AND KEYWAYS.TORQUE THE PULLEY BOLTS
TO 38 N-m(27 FT LBS).
INSTALL TIMING BELT AND ADJUST VALVE LASH.

 

First off, You definitly should have a Helms manual with you when you install the cams.
Dont rush into it. you will regret it.

I have only installed stock cams on my b18a but it should pretty much be the same except for the valve lash. My first suggestion would be to carefully remove the timing belt when you take the stock cams out because your car will run like **** if the timing belt is off one tooth. It happened to me. My 2nd peice of advice is to go out and buy a feeler gauge. This is the tool you need to set the valve lash. It has a bunch of thin peices of metal varying in size. After you install the cams and timing belt, you need to set the valve lash. I got my numbers from the Helms, but you have to get those numbers from Crower because your cams will have different lift and duration. Then when the cams are bolted in place, you slide the correct feeler gauge in between the cam lobs and the rockers in a specific order which Helms will provide you with. I set mine to have a little resistance when I slid it in between, but this cause tapping when I started it. It should slide in and out pretty smoothly. It also would be a good idea to have an inpact gun around to get the cam gears off the cams.


Thats really the most important things you will need. Everything else you should be able to follow instructions. let me know if you have any other questions. maybe i can help you out.

 

do not install them with out aftermarket valvesprings

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StyleTEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do not install them with out aftermarket valvesprings</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can install the springs w/o pulling the head! Like I said earlier, if you have never done any of this,get someone to help you or take it a professional.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid_vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can install the springs w/o pulling the head! Like I said earlier, if you have never done any of this,get someone to help you or take it a professional.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yah, he just never mentioned anything about the valvesprings.

 

i have the crower valvespring and retainer set already installed and the head has a port and polish. i just never installed the cams because had no money at that time and was just going to do turbo but funds lacked again so im just doing all motor for now. and im saving up all my money for a k24 frankenstein setup for some real monster torque. i just want to throw these cams in for now so i can still have fun with my b20 until i get move on up. i pretty much know how to set the valve lash now and do everything else. i have read many things on c-speed so i think i can do this cam swap.

i just want to know if i should tighten the valve clearance more than the specs given or looser for these cams. does anyone know why i should tighten or loosen the valve lash? i have stock bottom end so i just want to know what to set my valve lash at to run these cams and not worry about valve clearance?

i have heard people using 405a's and they were ok with clearance. so if i have plenty of clearance how much do i want to tighten the valve lash at? how can i check if i have valve clearance without claying the motor? is the screwdriver in the spark plug hole sufficient way of telling if you have valve clearance?

i want to do everything myself so taking it to a mechanic is out of the picture. i know i can do it i just dont want to miss anything and end up making a mistake so can anyone tell me something that i need to do that isnt already obvious? all of your knowledge is much appreciated.

 

just set the valve clearance to .006 Intake and .008 Exhaust like the cam spec sheet states. Don't make them any more loose or tighter, just set them where they are supposed to be.

 

if you are going to put these cams in, then you need to install the springs/retainers that are meant for the cams, and since you are replacing the springs, you might as well put in new valve seals just to be safe. preventative maintenance is the name of the game!

oh, and just give me the cams, ill install them for you...... on ...my...car....

 

correct me if im wrong but in my 6 short years of working on honda's, ive never had to worry about taking out the rocker arms when doing a camshaft swap on a b series head. All you need to do is pull the valve cover, take off the cam covers making sure not to loose their order, and pull the cams, cuz dont you have to pull that cams out when you take the head off anyway. Just my .02 cents and by the way Dont forget the assembly lube.

 

i had someone install my cams yesterday..
make sure you check ur cam gears/timing belt when u slide em back on
you dont wanna be off a tooth or so...that would throw things off and run like ****

yah 404 is def inneed of the valve springs!
i think 403 is cutting it close without it!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lscivichatch92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">correct me if im wrong but in my 6 short years of working on honda's, ive never had to worry about taking out the rocker arms when doing a camshaft swap on a b series head. All you need to do is pull the valve cover, take off the cam covers making sure not to loose their order, and pull the cams, cuz dont you have to pull that cams out when you take the head off anyway. Just my .02 cents and by the way Dont forget the assembly lube.</TD></TR></TABLE>

non vtec b-series heads use pivot mounted rockers, there is 16 of them, and they pop right off real easily when the cam caps are removed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lscivichatch92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> cuz dont you have to pull that cams out when you take the head off anyway. </TD></TR></TABLE>

On b series heads you do

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StyleTEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

On b series heads you do</TD></TR></TABLE>
the head studs are placed directly below the camshafts. so you have to remove them to get at the headstuds.

i usually put the cams back in, holding them in place with the outside caps, just so the rocker arms dont fall out