I finished a h22 swap into my 93 h23 lude (P13 ECU and h23 M tranny )and now Im experiencing a few things I need help with and I also have a few questions. Id like to speak with anyone whos done this swap and has knowledge of how to make it run perfectly.

Problems -
1. My downpipe now scrapes when I go over bumps or uneven planes. Is this normal and i just have to have a shop bend it or is the motor somehow sitting lower than it should??

2. Sometimes (and only sometimes)at idle my engine surges a little it up and down between 750 - 1700 rpm. my fuel press reg is hooked up.

3. My car seems to hessitate sparadickly when slowly accelerating through gears but only between 1000 - 4500 rpm. If I took it and had it dynoe tuned would this help or eliminate this problem?? What else could help it??

4. I still have check engine light on but cant seem to find a problem. Ive heard this is normal but have also heard that if a check engine light is on then it throws the car into limp mode.

Questions -

1. Could you tell a difference in the way the car handles??? Mine seems to pull a littlebit more than it used too going around turns.

2.After you got the engine running could you immediately( within the first couple weeks) tell it had more horsepower than before?? I can deffinately tell i have way more compression but seeing as how i should have 40 more hp than before I cant really tell any difference.

3.What do u think the next step in performance should be??? I have - header, exhaust, intake ,plugs and wires, im going to have a VAFC and get it dyno tuned, and thats about it performance wise.

Thanks in advance for any input you can give. It took me 2 months and 4000 dollars to get where im at with the swap but i still feel like im not finished,

 

bump-

 

all your answers lie in the check engine light, the check engine light is on for a reason. check the code and tell us what it is

also did you run wires for vtec?

 

yea everything works vtec was easiest - car just seems a little slow - so the check engine light isnt supposed to be on huh.. I feel kinda dumb now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea everything works vtec was easiest - car just seems a little slow - so the check engine light isnt supposed to be on huh.. I feel kinda dumb now. </TD></TR></TABLE>

God I want to hit you....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all your answers lie in the check engine light, the check engine light is on for a reason. check the code and tell us what it is
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, I have issue #1 and #3. I even dynoed my car and it posted 179whp.

I haven't had the hesitation issue for a few weeks but it comes and goes.

The engine runs really well other than these issues.

 

When I first swapped the motor in, the engine did not run as well as my H23. However, my H23 ran very well. It even had 173K miles on it too. GREAT motor.

Anyway, after I drove the car for a few hundred miles, changed the oil, and did not beat on it, the car runs very well now.

The car is DEFINITELY faster. I raced my friend before and after the swap. Before I couldn't keep up with him in 3rd gear. 4th gear he would blow me away. Now, we aer dead even.

 

I still agree with Tom, he should get rid off all of his CEL's before
he looks anywhere else.

 

Solutions
1)If your car is lowered than you can see why. If not, thats just how it is, go slower over big bumps....dont bend it...

2)you have a problem with either a vacuum leak, or the IAC or the thermo boost valve.....

3)the p13 likes to richen out at those rpms, causing a slight hesitation, the dyno tuning can get rid of that....

4) read the codes out, and only a couple of the very critical check codes will throw you into a limp mode, the one youre talking about is a safe fuel map, no vtec, and a 6500 rev limit. the real limp home mode means "sounds like a v8 with a monster cam" and cant go above 3200 rpm....

Answers:
1) there should be no difference in handling unless you changed something else....there is no real weight difference between the 2 engines...if anything the h22 is lighter....meaning you would get better handling...

2)Yes you can definitely tell. maybe your butt dyno is messed up or maybe your motor is messed up, but it should be much faster now....

3)get some cams and valvetrain in there before the tune....then you will be running nice....

Have a good time with it, you will see how much better it is after you clear up the little issues associated with the swap.