I have a 2001 ITR. Would I need a new ecu if I got Hondata? Is it possible to use my stock one? If I do need a new one, wouldn't I have to get a new key to match the immobilizer?

 

you will need an OBD1 ecu

p28 from a 1992-95 civic SI (usually the cheapest)
p72 from a 1994-95 integra GSR (more expensive)

each of the above ecus will have to be socketed to accept the hondata unit

you key will work just fine without your OEM ECU

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you will need an OBD1 ecu

p28 from a 1992-95 civic SI (usually the cheapest)
p72 from a 1994-95 integra GSR (more expensive)

each of the above ecus will have to be socketed to accept the hondata unit

you key will work just fine without your OEM ECU </TD></TR></TABLE>
Also the main diff. between using a p72 versus a p28 is the p72 retains the operation of a knock sensor as well as the ability to operate secondary runners as in a gsr/h22.

 

How much would I be looking at to get the gsr ecu? What's the use of the immobilizer if I switch ecus?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 01DC2_R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much would I be looking at to get the gsr ecu? What's the use of the immobilizer if I switch ecus? </TD></TR></TABLE>

whatever the market price is.

answer to your second question is "nothing".

 

obd1 p72 go anywhere from $200-$300 depending on the seller and if you are lucky...

for your ITR, a P28 will do just fine, those go for $100-$150

you will no longer have the immobilizer feature if you go with Hondata

 

Not to jack this thread, but how does Hondata compare to the AEM EMS and VAFC? Thanks.

 

vafc= piggyback, rudimentary tuning
Hondata= piggyback, complete tuning but changing programs require burning new chip
AEM EMS= standalone, complete tuning and no need to burn new chips

 

Will the green light continue to flash with a different ecu? What is AEM EMS, is this 'better' than Hondata? Are these street legal? Thanks. Sorry for being a noob.

 

Won't he also need a OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness?

 

AEM EMS is only reasonable for those who are going to tune their cars themselves and need those capabilities. My tuner says its also way overpriced, and that hondata is all you need. I picked up an s100 in an already socketed p28 for 300 off ht. This plus a 75.00 obd2-1 harness from lightning motorsports. Thats about the same is a vfac, and worlds better. This will mean your car will be run on an obd1 ecu. If your county/state requires emissions, your car won't pass when they plug up to your diagnostic port. I would suggest just swithching back to your stock ecu come emission time, or register it somewhere without emissions testing. Good luck

 

Just buy the Hondata plug and play backdate harness built in. Saves hassle of chipping, finding an ECU, and back date harness. Pick up a hondata P28 pre assembled and its plug and play with S200 or S100. As far as the VAFC goes its kinda pointless to only control fuel when you cant even control spark. Hondata cars are everything from daily drivers like mine puttin out only 170who on mustang dyno's to 400+ whp built turbo's. Spend money now save money later, thats what I say.

Oh and the Hondata will eliminate smog certification since A: it is a programmable ECU, and B: it is not the same OBD as the car that it comes from. To retain smog certification in any state with testing the ECU must be from the same year and car as it was intended. If you keep the stock Cat set up in the 01 and the old P73 and keep the mods to a min you might be able to pass usin the stock ECU. Although I am not certain

AEM EMS is for really not that necessary for many cars as many street B series that make 400+ use hondata. However the tuning possibilities are much greater with greater RPM increment changes to spark and fuel. Unless you plan to make around 500 whp on C16 I'd say forget it.


Modified by Nytemare at 6:41 AM 12/15/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nytemare &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just buy the Hondata plug and play backdate harness built in. Saves hassle of chipping, finding an ECU, and back date harness. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I was going to say the same thing. My cheap Hondata S100 came with everything necessary.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Hondata cars are everything from daily drivers like mine puttin out only 170who on mustang dyno's to 400+ whp built turbo's. Spend money now save money later, thats what I say.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly. Even the cheapest Hondata will allow you to modify your motor almost forever.

I understand the excellence of the AEM, but it's overkill for almost all of us.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">vafc= piggyback, rudimentary tuning
Hondata= piggyback, complete tuning but changing programs require burning new chip
AEM EMS= standalone, complete tuning and no need to burn new chips</TD></TR></TABLE>


As I understand it, the vafc is the only piggyback here.....

I thought the hondata modifies the honda ecu - but no piggyback.

AEM EMS is similar - although I'm not sure if they use the honda board at all or something they designed.....

 

Hondata is a socketed ROM tune. It allows complete modification of the entire mapa for WOT and partial throttle for spark and fuel. The reason that Hondata is not TECHNICALLY complete standalone is for the fact that to permanently run a map you have saved you must burn it to a chip then insert it.

On stand-alone units such as AEM EMS, Motec, Haltech, etc. there is no burning required and all changes are permanently saved on the harddrive of the ECU.

VAFC= ridicuolously overpriced shiny thing that only controls fuel curve (and not even that well and across big increments) and that lights up and looks prertty on the dash
AEM= system for full race cars needing to update software at minutes notice at the track when boost or another variable is changing due to climate, temp, etc.
Not really street use.
Hondata= god in the world of honda tuning... and no I don't work for hondata

 

isn't that what i said in a cliffnotes version?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nytemare &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
On stand-alone units such as AEM EMS, Motec, Haltech, etc. there is no burning required and all changes are permanently saved on the harddrive of the ECU.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

YOu ecu has a hard drive? Hmm i thought the info was saved on an Eprom? Maybe ive been wrong all these years?

 

lmao, haha just explaining the finer points of the whole thing. Cause questions were still comin up bout the whole thing. Just tryin to answer them before they get asked. Also if someone search's it'll clear up there questions before they post.


In other words yes.

 

Eprom is the ROM type program on hondata. As well as hard drive for a stand alone ECU I just said that for clarification, since that essentially is what it is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nytemare &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Eprom is the ROM type program on hondata. As well as hard drive for a stand alone ECU I just said that for clarification, since that essentially is what it is.</TD></TR></TABLE>


No EPROM is the chip that the ROM is saved on. Just wanted to clarify. kinda the right idea, but not exactly.

 

lmao thats what I was saying sorry bout the confusion. I assumed that people knew that ROM is a type of data and Eprom is the actual piece of hardware it is stored to. That is what I was saying.... btw ITR206 one Badass car.

 

lol. thanks.