I have a 1988 Civic dx hatch that is throwing codes 7,16,17.

When the CEL comes on, it seems like it runs rougher. I think it is already running rich, it seems worse when the CEL comes on.

According to this:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=978933

its the Throttle Position Sensor,Fuel Injectors, and Vehicle Speed Sensor.

Does that mean that all of those need replaced?

Could the injectors just need cleaned?

All it has is a 2.5 catback exhaust and homemade intake, if air leaked into the intake without going through the filter could this cause a problem?

Thanks

 

In the dpfi intake manifolds, you cannot take the tps out and replace it. You have to get a new manifold. If you do that, it would come with injectors already so check off injectors and tps.
I wouldn't like to give false info about the vss cause im not sure...

Oh btw, is your code 7 on all the time?? Mine turns on sometimes and sucks driving like that, plus it runs rich.... LMK

 

does your speedometer work?? also, have you swapped your motor or anything? if so, check all your wire connections. you ought to be able to do a search and find out how to test your tps too.

 

The check engine light isn't on all the time if that's what you mean.
It usually comes on at idle or while decellerating.

Speedo works fine, and it's the stock engine with lots of mileage.

If this motor blows a ZC with a turbo is going in there.

Could the injectors and sensors really be fried?

How do I clear the codes, and how long would that last?

I don't want to replace the whole manifold, if I have to do that I'll just take out the CEL until I swap in a ZC.

 

to clear the codes, you have to pull the hazard fuse in the fuse box under your hood for ~10 seconds. as far as how long they'll stay away, well, that depends on when your ecu detects a problem, so it won't likely last long.

if you're seriously going to disconnect your CEL, do it at the ecu and save yourself from tearing your dash apart. a buddy of mine did it the hard way. boy did he feel dumb when he found out all he had to do was cut the wire at the ecu.

 

Thanks for the info on how to clear it.

I am probably not going to disconnect the CEL if I have to cut an ECU wire.

Is there a way to connect a momentary switch to clear the CEL, so I don't have to restart the car every time it comes on? Also does it really mean that the sensors and injectors are bad if those codes are flashing?

Could it be that the injectors just need cleaned?

 

well you have the have those parts inspected. the TPS is adjustable. you may have to adjust the TPS to the correct voltage from closed to WOT. i had to do this on my swap to correct the cel. the Injectors im not sure about. i would research what causes the CEL to come on in the first place. what exactly is happening that makes the cel come up. fix that you fix the problem. as for the VSS im not exactly sure. is it mechanical or electric? if its mechanical there really isn't much to it. if its electric then you could have a short or a break inthe wire maybe.

that is the correct way to reset the ECU.... it would be dumb to figure out how to make a switch ect..ect....ect. by the time you figure out how to rig it you could have fixed all the other problems.

my advice is if you don't know what to do... buy a book or take it to a mechanic.

 

Ok, thanks.

I thought that maybe I would have to get new injectors and a manifold, thats why I wanted to wire in a reset switch. If it can be fixed, I would rather do that instead of band-aiding the problem.

 

a reset switch would't be hard to wire at all. just wire a momentary off switch in series with the hazard fuse, and run the wires and switch into the car if you want. when you want to reset your codes, just holding the switch for 10 seconds would break the connection and act as if you pulled the fuse. just make sure your car is off before you do it! I have no idea what would happen if you "pulled" your hazard fuse with the car running, maybe nothing, but I'd be afraid of hurting something. I would definitely tend to think that you couldn't reset your codes with the engine on.

the cel wouldn't be hard to disconnect either, though. check a wiring diagram to find out which wire controls the cel, and cut it down by the ecu. it won't hurt anything. your cel just won't come on. when you're ready to hook it back up, just reconnect the wires.

also, don't necessarily tell yourself that when your cel comes on, you must have a bad sensor. all of your sensors serve a purpose, and are intended to alert the ecu if something is out of range. they *could* be bad, or they could just be telling you that whatever it is they're measuring is legitimately out of range. in that case, you have to look for ways to fix the underlying problem or it'll never go away.

 

Thanks,

I think maybe the real problem is that it's running pretty rich, I just need to do some troubleshooting as to why.