ok i got my car back with the completly built engine and i still have no vtec. previous to the build up i checked everything. speedsensor, vtec selonoid,computer, but then they figured out my oil squirters in the block were broken when they took it apart , in turn flooding the cylinders which was why i was loosing alot of oil and i thought that would have fixed my vtec problem, but NOPE! i am hopeless i have tried everything!!!!!!! then i get on it and at good old 6400, the good old rev limiter kicks in. PLEASE HELP

 

you were losing alot of oil?

did you check the faq i have a thread on common vtec problems and trouble shooting.

when you say built motor what do you mean ? this could matter

 

sleeved block, j-e 10-1 pistons w/ eagle rods, crower turbo/nos cams, stock ecu and fuelsystem. basically a stock set-up. but with this problem i cannot turbo with 6400 kickin in and no-vtec... i have tested everything. i don't get it. coudl it be my cam settings at 0 degrees?? i am running into stupid options....

 

start with the basic stuff, you don't have a check engine light?

have you ever got the oil light to come on , has it flashed on you?

is it a stock h22 crank or is it a h23 with h22 head?

 

stock h22 crank and all.. yes my check engine light comes on and it is if i can remember from 2 months back, v-tec malfuntion/lowoil pressure , 5512 code or something in that area.. but i have the correct oil and everything.
Comes on right after the rev limiter or in 4th at around 100mph.

 

well if you have had a low oil indicator, you not developing enough presure,

here is something to check. make sure your oil pan isn't dented in, sometimes the dent blocks the oil pickup at the higher rpm so it can't devlop the presure it needs,

also it may be worth taking the pan off to make sure when the the people "fixed your oil squirters" they didn't bend or misposition the oil pick up

or if you don't want to do any of that, get an oil presure gauge , and watch you oil presure,

oil presure is the very basic thing needed to engauge vtec, after that its all elevtrical parameters,

also i really recommend reading the thread i posted,

there is a way to test the vtec mechinism by using air pressure and taking the valve cover off.

 

what should my oil pressure be at?

I can't seem to find that thread

 

you should have 10 psi ish at idel

and 50 minimum at 3000rpm

 

i found your thread and i have done every one of those tests. even had a honda ecu reading computer hooked up and drove around and it "said" my vtec was kickin in. it was reading engine temp, speed, everything.. i jacked car up in garage with a light runnin from my vtec sel and when i hit 5500 it lit up. i have a oil pres guage, i have no dents in my oil pan, i tested the sel with my battery to hear it click, i took vtec off and cleaned it, i switched tps sensors from my buddies gsr. i dunno what else. i havn't tried the air pressure test, and or checked my positioning of my oil pump catch

 

there is a service bolt on the front of the cylinder head that is used to check oil pressure to the vtec solenoid whien vtec comes on and off. oil pressure is low when you are out of vtec. when vtec comes on the oil pressure at that port will skyrocket. if the oil pressure does not jump when vtec comes on then you have an oil pressure problem for vtec only. oil pressure at the rest of the engine will be fine. Now if you have no oil pressure at vtec then when whomever rebuilt your motor probably put an oil orface in the block. these are used on h23's and f22's but if one is put in on an h22 block then you will have no vtec.

if you have oil pressure to the solenoid when it comes on then your rocker arms are not locking together. but because you have a vtec oil pressure code i would bet my life that your builder put an orfice in your block. this would not be the first time i have seen this.

 

calling..........

 

i just called and he will get back to me. His co/owner was the one who ammembled the engine and he isn't in but i will re-port when i find out about that. I appreciate my honda-tech friends.<3

 

go to autozone and buy those stickers that say vtech then youll have vtech

 

maybe it's because i removed my oem vtec sticker from the trunk? OMG!!!

 

u may also wanna check that your oil pick isnt clogged. some people just use hondabond or ultraflange to seal the pan to the block...somtimes this will cause peices of (bonding material) to fall off into the pan and clog the pick up...and u can take yer valve cover off and there are spots on the end of the cam rail to put air gun or sumthing similar into...the compressed air should kick the vtec over, refer to the service manual for the correct spots to blow the air into. as i am too lazy to walk over to the service library at this time

prelittlelude is also right, that a dented pan will cause low pressure.and at idle 10psi and 50 at 3000. is what u should have...minimum

 

ok. I don't have a dented pan and this problem was before this re-rebuild because they replaced the rings twice now. So it was happening previously. I am goign to my mech tommorrow to hook a oil pressure guage to the front of the head to see if the pressure is gettign to vtec. If it isn't that means that the wrong ofaces are in? the steps i havnt' taken are the airnozzle to the vtec hole to see of rockers work, the oil pressure guage, a diff vtec sel on head.

 

What ECU are you running?? I used a Modified P06 with hondata and adventually Hi Cam wouldn't work at all.. Changed to a P28 with hondata and everything was fine.. used the same chip..

 

stock. i will see what i have to do after tommorrows oil pressure reading from the head

 

bump.

now i am about to go to get the tool to check the pressure from the front of the head. shoudl i be reading pressure all the time and or just at v-tec. or 2 differant readings.. if so what are they?

 

with the battery voltage connected to the soleniod 1p MAle terminal and engine running, oil pressure should be more than 57psi at 5000 rpm's

 

ok he's chekcing it tommorrow. i'm prayign that, that is the problem and not my ecu.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IhAvEaLuDe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok he's chekcing it tommorrow. i'm prayign that, that is the problem and not my ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i would perform the manual check of the vtec mechenism with the valve cover off, using the air presure method as in my vtec thread

 

the bolt on the front of the head is where you hook up the special tool guage. the oil pressure there will be approx. 7psi. when the vtec solenoid is activated the pressure will increase to approx. 60 psi. remember you have to be driving for vtec to come on because the ecu needs to see load. or you could manually turn on the solenoid.

 

does the solenoid "know" if the rocker pins dont engage?

because he said the solenoid is ok, and if the oil pressure turns out ok, then maybe his pins are f'ed.....

but that goes back to my question, if the solenoid knows they didnt work then it could tell the computer and it would kick the 6500 rev limit...

if the solenoid cant tell whether the pins lock or not you know it is another problem....

 

the solinoid is a just on or off, it opens a oil galley and thats it,

hell it could be spewing a 60 psi stream of oil right out of the motor and the car won't know something is wrong until the oil runs out,

if you are getting the 60 ish psi when the solinoid activates while driving, and yous till don't think youhave vtec, CHECK THE LOCKERs like i said,

or your IABS might not be opening and the engine is starving in vtec, and your vtec is actually engauging.