see sig for car. I know I need an oil change/filter and spark plugs, but I have some other problems to address. The car shutters while braking and brake feel is quite bad. I have a helms manual, but I am not very mechanically inclined, I use it mostly for interior stuff. Should I just bring the car into a shop I know of to maintain it for me?

 

shutters = shaking/vibrating? if so, replace or resurface the rotors. your pads is probably worn down and leaving those nice grooves in them. might want to replace those as well.

 

you are probably right, I don't think I could do the brakes with just me and my brother, especially in the cold like it is. I'll do the oil and filter now and probably the MTF while I'm at it. then I'll just bring it in to this shop I know of

 

pads and rotors SHOULDN'T take more than maybe 15 minutes but sometimes the rotor will just not come off. my cousin and i fought a rotor on a hyndai elantra for 5 or 6 hours. if it doesnt come off easily, take motor oil and put some in the two screw holes on the rotor. after a can of pb blaster, air chisel, dead blow hammer, screw drivers, and 5 hours or so of non-stop beating, we decided to use motor oil and it was off in 2 minutes.

 

interesting...rotors shouldn't be that much of a pain to get off...if you had the right tools to begin with, you'd have them off in 10 mins (both sides)

Theres a screwdriver that you could tap while you have it in place that turns every time you hit it with a bfh (big ******* hammer) Half the time, they're rusted on, but that tool works wonders. It should be rentable too at your local auto parts store.

Also, do what GAME said, replace your rotors and pads in the front. Then go from there...it's not rocket science and the Helms will be your bible for this if you haven't replaced pads or rotors before. Don't go to a shop and get raped for brake jobs when you could do it all yourself and save 50 bucks or more.

Good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicboisi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">interesting...rotors shouldn't be that much of a pain to get off...if you had the right tools to begin with, you'd have them off in 10 mins (both sides)</TD></TR></TABLE>
normally id agree
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicboisi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Theres a screwdriver that you could tap while you have it in place that turns every time you hit it with a bfh (big ******* hammer)</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmmmm an impact driver. got one and it works on screws not rotors. the hammer i used was a bfdbh (big f@#$ing dead blow hammer)

 

i dont think it's called a impact driver...the tool im talking abouts sole purpose is to be used on import rotors or rotors with those annoying screws...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mnbv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">see sig for car. I know I need an oil change/filter and spark plugs, but I have some other problems to address. The car shutters while braking and brake feel is quite bad. I have a helms manual, but I am not very mechanically inclined, I use it mostly for interior stuff. Should I just bring the car into a shop I know of to maintain it for me?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The shuddering is caused by your brake pads. when your pads get overheated (which happens very easy with average pads), they become sticky. The stickyness deposits pad material unevenly on the surface of the rotor causing the shuddering effect. If you upgrade to better pads (axxis ultimates, cobalt street pads, or hawk hps), you won't have to worry about this anymore. You will however experience a lot more brake dust, and mabey a tiny bit of squeel.

Never reuse old pads on freshly machined rotors (they won't seat properly & you will be endangering yourself).

If I were you, I would buy the pads you want & take them to be installed somewhere that uses an "on car" lathe to machine rotors. This is the BEST/ONLY way to resurface rotors. If your rotors are too worn, they will be selling you new ones, so keep that in mind (Don't pay more than 20-30 each).

If you do it yourself, machine the rotors, get new pads, replace all caliper hardware (springs & sliders), new pad shims, re lube the caliper guide pins, lube all pad sliding surfaces, and use anti squeel goo on the backs of the pads & shims (lightly coat & let dry for 10 min). Then it will be pro...

Good luck...

 

that be it. changeable bit on it. smack it it turns one click at a time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicboisi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont think it's called a impact driver...the tool im talking abouts sole purpose is to be used on import rotors or rotors with those annoying screws...</TD></TR></TABLE>

The impact driver doen't turn when you hit it (just a screwdriver w/ the steel shank sticking out the back of the handle). You are supposed to apply torque while by hand while hitting it. There are two different tools. An impact driver is cheap & works great. I can't speak for the one that turns as you hit it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The impact driver doen't turn when you hit it .</TD></TR></TABLE>

an impact driver does turn when you hit it. i have one

 

umm kinda both? Yeah it turns as you hit it...i don't believe you have to apply pressure at all...just stick it in and tap dat ***! i mean driver...

this tool works for me all the time...no prob.

 

Whats the regular one called (screw driver w/ the shank sticking out of the handle)?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whats the regular one called (screw driver w/ the shank sticking out of the handle)?</TD></TR></TABLE>

never heard of one of those

 

...Well you don't turn it per se but you need to apply some pressure in the direction you are going...then one or two good wacks to just break it loose then stop and unscrew it by hand or you will start to strip threads if you keep hammering.
I've always heard them called impact drivers.....usually a cylindrical handle about 1 & 1/2 in. diam. and 5 in. long with interchangable bits. Anyone who works on cars or motorcycles needs one. $15.00 ?


Modified by alotawatts at 3:44 PM 12/14/2004