Part 2 to my P1457 code...everything is seeming like either an evap valve or the canister...

Pardon me, but newbie here...easy backyard fix or bring to dealer?

If backyard fix...should I buy the valve, or canister...both...or what do you recommend?

Thanks,

Josh from MN

'99 Accord V6
2 Door
56,000 Miles
Minnesota Car

 

what is the P1457 code say? and what is ur car?

 

evap canister are expensive. for a EG cost is about $400, no joke all honda emissions parts are expensive except the PCV valve.

 

Well, other than posting the same question 4 times....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Josh10e &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Part 2 to my P1457 code...everything is seeming like either an evap valve or the canister...</TD></TR></TABLE>Did you find my post about what to check? What did you find when you did those checks?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Josh10e &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If backyard fix...should I buy the valve, or canister...both...or what do you recommend?</TD></TR></TABLE>P1457 only tells you what SYSTEM is screwing up. It does NOT say which part is broken. I'm really starting to get annoyed when someone says "just replace the ????".

It might be a loose vacuum hose. Connect it back up. Free.

It might be a non-working vent-shut valve. $50 & you can reach it just forward of the left-rear wheel. But the mounting screws might be rusty...

It might be a cracked evap canister. $$$ & harder to remove/replace.

It might be a pressure sensor on the gas tank. Then you have to drop the tank...

 

if its for the accord its OBD2 a very common thing that ppl forget to do is tighten the fuel cap to 4 clicks, other wise just hose and look for leaks on OBD2 it takes 1 1/2 times the legal emission to cause most codes so it could be a good size leak if so