Is brake fade a common problem with ITRs? Last night I was braking from high speed with 3 people int he car, and after a little while, the front brakes felt really shitty. Not mushy, but felt like the brakes were barely there. Didn't brush off speed as quickly as it should have. At 1 point, the front of the car was shaking. I drove around for a little bit and braked again and it was fine.

Any inexpensive cross drilled/slotted rotors out there? Also, what pads are good for the street (with some heavy braking at times)?

 

maybe you warped the rotors?
take them off and have them shaved for 10- 20 bucks at a local garage, cheap way out first...

Oh i have had No fade in the brakes and i have 23k miles untill i warped the rotors, so get them cut


[Modified by Bbasso, 3:47 PM 1/3/2002]

 

Get a set of OEM rotors or Brembo Blanks, remove your dust shields, and get a good set of pads.

X-drilled and Slotted rotors are MORE prone to warping and cracking, and not something I recommend for hard drivers, on the street or the track.

Andie

 

If cross-drilled/slutted rotors are so fragile, what's the point in having them? I have heard this before and I am a little confused.

 

b/c they look sporty. Part of the job of brakes is the be a heat sink for kinetic (heat) enrgy created when you slow down. When you slot/cross drill them you actually take away mass from the rotor and cause it to have less capacity for heat that's why taking off the dust shields is so important... b/c it allows the rotors to more effectively dump kinetic energy in the surrounding air

 

yes, fade will occur on the stock pads. Upgrade the front pads to an aggressive street pad (porterfield, carbotech etc) and put in some good fluid, and you'll be good to go for 20-30 minutes of hard track use. The stock discs are fine, slotted/drilled stocks are a step backwards (modern pads don't outgas, which was the origional reason for drilled rotors)

 

If we want to be nitpicky the original reason was the Porsche wanted to reduce unsprung weight. They used to cast the holes into the rotors, but even they have compromised. Even Porsche x-drilled will crack.

Warren

 

Just a reminder... The most common reason for rotors to warp is improperly torqued lug nuts. Invest in a torque wrench and you won't have problems again. And don't trust the shop to do it right. When you get the car back, loosen the lug nuts and retighten them with the torque wrench to 80 ft-lbs.

 

get some good new fluid in there man!
and upgrade those pads!
oem ITR rotors are great for almost everything.

 

I'd say rapid and uneven cooling of the rotor would be the biggest cause of rotor warping.

I've warped all four rotors on my lowly 98 GS TWICE. That's right, warped, turned, then warped again. I attribute it mainly to crappy EBC Green Stuff brake pads(don't ask, it was a brief but horrifying moment of riceyness). Tended to heat up the small rotors they put on non-R Integras, so that with a little water or a cold day they would cool unevenly. Hot pad and caliper over a hot rotor tends to keep it hot while the rest cools.

Oh yea, all my lug nuts were torqued to 80 ft-lbs.

 

I think my rotors are fine, because the car doesn't shake or anything while braking anymore. Just that 1 time.

So taking the brake dust shields off will help some?

If I was to upgrade in brake pad, which do you all recommend, and how much does it go for? Also, what's a good place to buy from?

Thanks in advance.

 

Porterfield R4S, Hawk HPS or HP+, various Carbotech choices are all going to be fine for street/auto-x use.

Avoid pads like EBC, Axxis Metal Masters, or untested brands if you are hard on the brakes.

Warren