Hey guys, give me some suggestions, did my install (skunk2 stg 1 cams(ya, it rips!!)) , and now I have a tad bit of driveability issues. In the mornings when the car is just starting to warm up the idle wants to dip to around 2-3 hundred. Then it goes back to normal. It just does it when I push in the clutch for a stop sign or something. It never did this before... I was thinkin the valve under the t-body, but I never even touched that during the install.

Im thinkin its the valves, possibly I should re adjust(did em right after cam install).

I tried to adjust the idle, but when I pull out the eacv to adjust it, the car just dies!! Suggestions?

Its not like the car cant be driven, I just want it perfect again, ya know!!

Ryan

 

bump, i wanna know whats up

 

Bump ... me too

 

i've got skunk2 stage 2 cams, and mine does the same thing... when i put it in neutral and let the revs drop, it drops to about 6-700 RPMs, bounces up to about 1500, and then settles at 8-900. I think that part's normal (the computer's doing the best it can to cope with some pretty aggressive cams), although 2-300 RPMs seems pretty low. anyway, bump for someone who knows more than me.

 

idling at 2-300rpm ?
Sounds like you may have slipped a tooth when putting the timing belt on..
My friends talon was like that..We put hks cams in it and everytime he came to a light and put his foot in on the clutch the motor would just cut off..He had to keep the revs up,,,, otherwise forget it..
We thought it was supposed to be like this since the cams were so agressive but we were wrong..It was off like 2-3 teeth...Fixed it and now the car idles at 750-800 and the idle like stock..On 472/472 cams..

 

My idle is perfect when warm though.

 

up

 

Well, I guess I could have a vac leak. Ill check in the morning.

 

weird, mine does this too but I thought it was either a vac leak, bad IACV, bad FITV, or because I still had not adjusted my TPS. My idle will get down as low as 100 RPMs, but sometimes it will go back to 900 RPM and stay there. I've redone the timing belt three times, but I haven't touched it in almost a month and a half. So I dont kno if it's the timing belt jumping a tooth on the cam gear or one of the other things I mentioned.

EDIT: if it a vacuum leak, would that register on a boost/vacuum guage? I still have my old boost gauge, so maybe I can hook it up and see if my vacuum is normal. Do you guys think I would be able to find anything out by doing this?

 

Sounds like a leak, or fuel map problem to me.
You could hook up the gauge, it should show a minor loss in vac if it's leaky. But that's totally dependent on where the leak is, and how bad.

 

Well, at normal temp I sprayed brake cleaner around the manifold, and no idle changes, so I dont think there is a vac leak.

I put the p72 ecu in, and the idle was much better, but the engine was warm, so thats not a accurate test. I was however able to take off the eacv without the car dieing on me, so I re adjusted the idle. Im gunna wait a while and see how it drives when it cools down.
Ryan

 

my car has that problem as well when its cold...I just ignored it. But than again my car doesn't hold an idle when its cold because I have no fitv and my coolant lines are by passed. I just think of it this way, once you start messing with the motor nothing is perfect.

 

Thats true man, very true.

 

I have this same problem, but it happened after putting the SOHC ZC motor in to replace the blown a6.

I put the IM and TB from the a6 onto the zc(came as an auto), and now it idles at 2-300 when cold, and when its really cold it tries to die after turning it on.
Can't warm it up in the morning w/o sitting in it.

But after it warms up it idles at 700.

 

check your valve adjustment. I redid a friend's that was too tight after a cam install and it fixed the problem. But I have also seen those symptoms with the intake cam being off by a tooth. HTH's

 

I'd say timing is too retarded, belt wasn't installed correctly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTEC 91 Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd say timing is too retarded, belt wasn't installed correctly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You callin me retarded!! HAHA, JK

ya, its not the timing, thats dead on. My money is in the valve adj, there prolly too tight, and when it warms up it expands and runs good.

What do yall think? Thanks, Ryan

 

valve adjustment homie.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by APEX CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">valve adjustment homie.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Aight Aight... gunna do it tomorrow.


Ryan

 

Allright, all better, great idle now.

Valvs were tight

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by droppedcrxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Allright, all better, great idle now.

Valvs were tight</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats good to know. Mine are adjusted at .009/.009 and it idles nice.

 

Ya, I had them too tight before on my old d series with similar problems.

 

yea well since u put a higher lift cam in there they were gonna be to tight from the start but atleast u got it all figured out! im putting in my gsr soon and selling this b16 but i was a cam that cracks into vtec

 

Good to hear u got it fixed. Wouldnt a vac leak cause a high idle, not an initial dip like u desrcribed? I will be installing stage 1's soon too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tRex99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was a cam that cracks</TD></TR></TABLE>

OBX y0!