i recently got my car back from a shop who built the motor
(H22, forged piston/rods 9:1 comp, sleeved block.. ect)

and for the passed month or so i have been slowly breaking in the motor little by little climbing up in revs...i did frequent oil changes on the car
20miles, 100miles, 500miles, 1000miles and now i have about 1300miles on the car

so last night i figured i might as well take it up to redline...i accelerated and the car cut fuel at 6800-6900 then i tried again and the CEL came on..i scanned the code and it was p1259 vtec malfunction...

ive got the helms so i started the vtec trouble shooting flowchart and the vtec soleniod and the vtec pressure switch passed all the tests(continuity and voltage)
and when i even ran a 12volt to the (1P male) vtec solenid valve you could hear it click...so it is definitly working...i removed the vtec assembly from the block to see if the filter was clogged..nothing was wrong with it so i assembled it and reset the code and tried again..and the car fell on its face at 6800 rpm...

i cannot figure this out..please anybody help....

 

if the coolant temp sensor or the speedometer isn't reading right the vtec function won't work. if that still doesn't fix it check to make sure you are getting the correct amount of oil pressure to the sonlenoid

 

coolent temp guage and speedo is aO.K.

how do i check the oil pressure to the soleniod??

 

hmmm....im not familiar with obd 2 engine codes....i know on the obd1 preludes there a two vtec codes.....21 for something wrong with the solenoid.....22 for something wrong with the oil pressure sensor, im sure there is something similar to this on obd2, but with different numbers of course.....

if you had insufficient oil pressure i dont think it would throw a code though....

and since you know the solenoid works.....i would check your engine management system.....

what ecu setup are you running? you need to check that and check the wiring in-between....

 

If you need a "SEE" part of the write-up, just tell me, I will get it for you

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by graphic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">coolent temp guage and speedo is aO.K.

how do i check the oil pressure to the soleniod?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

hey thanks alot bro... (i'm running stock the ecu)

well the soleniod and pressure switch have passed evey test so far...only test i didn't do yet is the oil pressure...(all i do is hook up a guage to where the sealing bolt is on the block as picture in your diagram right???)

also on step #8 when i put a jumper wire from 12volt to the 1pmale soleniod terminal i heard a click(which means it shouls be working right??) and when i went to measure volts between c15 and ground i had full voltage at all rpms..is this normal? or am i supposed to just have voltage above 5000rpms?

can anything else be the cause of the fuel cut and code??

maybe a bad secondary 02 sensor???i just had a new cat put on and the guy couldn't get the secondary o2 out so he cut and spliced one that was laying around at his shop..but he wasn't sure if it was working..

the first nite the engine through the cel it was p1259 and p420
p420 was catalist below threshold...but i cleared the two codes and only one now is the p1259...

it almost appears that all vtec components are fine...could it be vtec compenents inside the engine?? ie rocker arms being put on the wrong way?
remember engine was rebuilt...

after clearing codes...car runs alright until i try to bring it up to red line...the bam...fuel cut @6800rpm...no cel though...only way to trigger the cel it taking it up to 6000 rpm or above and holding it there for like 2to 3 sec WOT or NOT cel illuminates...

i'm stumped...??

 

well the ecu only kicks in that rev limiter if the vtec switch doesnt come on....and if it were something inside like the rockers or vtec equipment, the switch wouldnt know it, therefore neither would the ecu....so its not something internal.....

and youre gonna need some kind of engine management once you get that turbo going....

what does wire c15 run to? is it the solenoid or the pressure switch??

 

ok so internal is out of the question...

then i just don't understand it...solenoid checks good and so does the pressure switch..

i think c15 is the pressure switch....

what about all that o2 crap i mentioned above...could that be a cause of the ecu going into closed loop and setting a rev limiter of 6800rpm w/ no vtec???

but the thing is engine isn't throwing a p420 anymore...just the p1259...

btw, i got my whole set up ready and i am going to be running that new neptune stuff for engine management...that is if i can figure this one out...

 

bump..still not working...

 

i have the same problem bro. i went thought every test that was told "vtec problems sticky" and tommorrow i am goign to chekc the pressure from that spot on the head. I'm prayign to god it will show me a sign

 

this is crazy..i just got my car back from being built and was waiting like forever to get it tuned and now this...happens...

the only test mine didn't pass is the continuity test from vtec soleniod valve harness (female side) the troubleshooting guide says if no continuity exist substitute a good known ecm..if that fixs the problem replace the original ecm..

my problem with that is i have no way of getting a "good known ECU' to test it against..

does anybody know if i can just hot wire the vtec soleniod to 12v and take the car fo a test drive and will vtec work??..or does that soleniod valve just engauge at 5200rpm and then dis-engauge???

 

i hooked a light up and jacked my car up in the air and it lit so the vtec seloniod clicks on but still no vtec. i ran the wire from the battery to the vtec sel and got it to click. i have a feelin it's my orface

 

bump...missing skin on my knuckles...

 

the solenoid has power whenever vtec is engaged so if you hooked up a constant source it will have vtec, but the computer will not switch the fuel maps, and it will still limit at 6800 rpm.....

this is because the ecu still thinks that vtec isnt engaging.....

i thought it from the beginning that something was wrong with your computer, thats why i asked if you had and engine management system.....i guess you will have to see if you can find another computer to try it with....

if you can find an obd2&gt;1 harness adapter you could definitely find a computer......heck ill loan or sell you my p13 if you need it, but it is obd1 so youll need the adapter....

 

your sol. might be in good working order, but if the pressure switch isnt getting enuff psi, then it wont kick open the solenoid. as for the 420 code u had, that is for catalytic failure. that shouldnt mess w/ yer vtec. check the pressure and let us know

 

i can't wait to fix my problem which is the same as yours. Then i can give you sosme direction.. It's been like 4 months for me. dont' punch **** it's not worth it

 

bump..having no vtec sucks........

 

did u do all the tests?

 

still didn't do oil pressure test yet...

but i was doing some research and found this...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=686379&page=1

check out this paragraph..

quoted from VTECVillan:


The way to use the JDM VTEC solenoid with a USDM ECU or any ECU that looks for a VTEC pressure switch is to run the wire from D6 (VTEC Pressure Switch) and tap it into A4 (VTEC Solenoid). This connects the pressure switch and VTEC solenoid circuit together which fools the ECU so it won't throw a CEL.
The first setup that I wired this way was a friend's car (95 DX with 98 JDM B18C + JRSC). It has been running flawlessly for nearly 2 years and sees it's fair share of abuse. There have be no side effects from this that I have seen nor have I ever heard anyone else that has had problems.

so does anybody knowif i do this but utulizing the h22 ecu pin out instead (which are a8 and c15) do you think this would be a good temporary troubleshooting way of seeing if my oil pressure switch is bad??

cause technically speaking if i do this mod vtec should work and if it does than it is the oil pressure switch at fault...which i will replace ...but if it does'nt work than i have some serious issues...

 

check the pressure before you go through all that. it's way easier. if pressure is fine then i guess try it.

 

graphic, first things first. See if it is mechanical or electrical. Wire up a light to the vtec solenoid wire. If the light turns on, it is mechanical, if it does not, it is electrical.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by graphic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so does anybody knowif i do this but utulizing the h22 ecu pin out instead (which are a8 and c15) do you think this would be a good temporary troubleshooting way of seeing if my oil pressure switch is bad??

cause technically speaking if i do this mod vtec should work and if it does than it is the oil pressure switch at fault...which i will replace ...but if it does'nt work than i have some serious issues...


</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have done that on OBD1, but not OBD2 so I can not tell you for sure it works, but it should. Yes, it what trick works, your vtec pressure switchis to blame (or the wiring to the switch).

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=830163

READ READ READ That thread will tell you everything involved with vtec engaugement

 

trust me i did EVERY test in the helms manual except for the oil pressure...(waiting on a gauge)...all the tests i have done check out ok..

my coolant gauge works my vss works...

turbogixxer...how do i wire up the light?

tap positive wire into 1p soleniod terminal and then ground the light to the engine block??

also i have to take it for a road test to see if the light will work right??
so i am going to need some long wires...speaker cable ok?