Rod bearings - some engine trouble (56K)
so here they are...
killed connection rod bearings from rod no 2


i ll take some photos of the crank axle and the rod part when we have them out.
**** guys..... this will be expensive work. but i think its a good task to put in new bearings and gaskets right before supercharger...
Modified by - Sim - at 6:22 PM 2/4/2005
killed connection rod bearings from rod no 2


i ll take some photos of the crank axle and the rod part when we have them out.
**** guys..... this will be expensive work. but i think its a good task to put in new bearings and gaskets right before supercharger...
Modified by - Sim - at 6:22 PM 2/4/2005
If the rod bearings are that bad, you'll more than likely need to grind the crank rod journal down to 10 under and use undersized bearings. A micropolish probably won't take out all of the scuffing.
We'll see once the pics come in...it'll be easier to say yay or nay then.
We'll see once the pics come in...it'll be easier to say yay or nay then.
yeah i know that there can be even more damage. the rod part looks very bad. i ll think to get one new rod.
and i just can hope now.
until the engine building guy has the crank and can measure it.
before that is happened i can just say and do not really know what to do now.
if there has to be a new crank, it will be expensive, as i think that honda will take loads of money for it....
and i just can hope now.
until the engine building guy has the crank and can measure it.
before that is happened i can just say and do not really know what to do now.
if there has to be a new crank, it will be expensive, as i think that honda will take loads of money for it....
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can i ask how something like this happens.
I just see fellow ITR owners having this kinda major motor problems and it scares me ... will this happen to my motor with stock redline. not trying to sound newbie just concerned i would say.
I just see fellow ITR owners having this kinda major motor problems and it scares me ... will this happen to my motor with stock redline. not trying to sound newbie just concerned i would say.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
for quake3
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rocket jumps rock.
for quake3
</TD></TR></TABLE>rocket jumps rock.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the rod bearings are that bad, you'll more than likely need to grind the crank rod journal down to 10 under and use undersized bearings. A micropolish probably won't take out all of the scuffing.
We'll see once the pics come in...it'll be easier to say yay or nay then.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought you couldnt regrind the journals on the crank? Id like to hear more details on this before i throw out my old block/crank. Mine was pretty fucked up but was told it was probably shot and would need a new one. anyway heres what happened when my rod bolt/rod bearing went...

Im just now beginning the rebuild, the car has been sitting since june.
We'll see once the pics come in...it'll be easier to say yay or nay then.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought you couldnt regrind the journals on the crank? Id like to hear more details on this before i throw out my old block/crank. Mine was pretty fucked up but was told it was probably shot and would need a new one. anyway heres what happened when my rod bolt/rod bearing went...

Im just now beginning the rebuild, the car has been sitting since june.
hmmm
looking quite bad.
a friend of mine is a cosworth tuner and has a good engine rebuild connection.
when the engine, respective the crank is out, we will take it to this rebuild guy and see what he can do.
but i think i will have to get a new one, you can fell the bad place on the crank, not that cool.
a connection rod is not that expensive, normally there shall be no need for more than one new.
but guys i ll let you know about all news on the engine and the work.
looking quite bad.
a friend of mine is a cosworth tuner and has a good engine rebuild connection.
when the engine, respective the crank is out, we will take it to this rebuild guy and see what he can do.
but i think i will have to get a new one, you can fell the bad place on the crank, not that cool.
a connection rod is not that expensive, normally there shall be no need for more than one new.
but guys i ll let you know about all news on the engine and the work.
You can grind down the crank. It's a pretty common procedure, especially when buying a replacement crank is too expensive.
I'm not sure how far you can go before compromising structural integrity, but ACL does make .010" and .025" undersized bearing sets.
There's also a crank rod journal grinding procedure that increases the stroke by offset grinding the rod journal so that it moves the journal's centerline further away from the main journal centerline. However, if you do that, you'll have to rethink your rod length, wrist pin placement, and piston compression height.
If you can buy a good, used crankshaft from a GS-R or ITR for $150 to $300, then I'd do that. That way, you can use the OEM Honda bearings to manually set your clearances to your liking instead of relying on a half-assed, around-the-corner machine shop to hit the clearance by grinding and finishing the rod journal to spec. I've never had a good experience with a machine shop that wasn't 100% racing-focused....especially when it came down to clearancing.
The bottom line....just get a new crank and have it neutral balanced by itself, then with the crank pulley and flywheel put on there one at a time to see the imbalance and then all of it together to check the entire assy.
EDIT: Along the lines of offset stroking the crank, I forgot to mention that if the crank grinder doesn't grind the journal perfect to the original centerline, it could affect the stroke, so it could put the piston higher or lower relative to the deck. A little extra might not hurt if you're doing a simple rebuild, but if you're doing a performance build, it could throw off everything in that cylinder.
Modified by IN VTEC at 11:10 AM 12/13/2004
I'm not sure how far you can go before compromising structural integrity, but ACL does make .010" and .025" undersized bearing sets.
There's also a crank rod journal grinding procedure that increases the stroke by offset grinding the rod journal so that it moves the journal's centerline further away from the main journal centerline. However, if you do that, you'll have to rethink your rod length, wrist pin placement, and piston compression height.
If you can buy a good, used crankshaft from a GS-R or ITR for $150 to $300, then I'd do that. That way, you can use the OEM Honda bearings to manually set your clearances to your liking instead of relying on a half-assed, around-the-corner machine shop to hit the clearance by grinding and finishing the rod journal to spec. I've never had a good experience with a machine shop that wasn't 100% racing-focused....especially when it came down to clearancing.
The bottom line....just get a new crank and have it neutral balanced by itself, then with the crank pulley and flywheel put on there one at a time to see the imbalance and then all of it together to check the entire assy.
EDIT: Along the lines of offset stroking the crank, I forgot to mention that if the crank grinder doesn't grind the journal perfect to the original centerline, it could affect the stroke, so it could put the piston higher or lower relative to the deck. A little extra might not hurt if you're doing a simple rebuild, but if you're doing a performance build, it could throw off everything in that cylinder.
Modified by IN VTEC at 11:10 AM 12/13/2004
thanks for your lines in vtec. but all that we thought off. but thanks that you took the time to tell me my possibilitis.


have been busy today with a friend.
i ll post pics of engine internals tomorow.
cam batteries have been empty.
i think to get a new crank. But exact i ll just know when the engine rebuild guy measured it and so. its pretty expensive. 955 euro. with that dollar its about 1260 dollars for the crank,..... **** ma a**
but when i supercharge the car. can i left compression and rods, pistons oem? or will i have to change?
and is there a way to get better bearings than from honda?


have been busy today with a friend.
i ll post pics of engine internals tomorow.
cam batteries have been empty.
i think to get a new crank. But exact i ll just know when the engine rebuild guy measured it and so. its pretty expensive. 955 euro. with that dollar its about 1260 dollars for the crank,..... **** ma a**
but when i supercharge the car. can i left compression and rods, pistons oem? or will i have to change?
and is there a way to get better bearings than from honda?
make sure you get the head cleaned out very very good becasue some of the metal shaving are problally traped, waiting for you to hit vtec so they can come out and wreak havoc on your head
yes you can see some reflection :-)
and yes i m on cleaning the head. but we found many spleens in the oil pan. no where other. and thats good that way.
hoping to get all parts soon.


i had to repaint the whole battery area, the pre owner caused a battery explosion and didn t remove the crappy ****. everything was eaten up by battery fluid. damn **** looking. but now its good :-)
and yes i m on cleaning the head. but we found many spleens in the oil pan. no where other. and thats good that way.
hoping to get all parts soon.


i had to repaint the whole battery area, the pre owner caused a battery explosion and didn t remove the crappy ****. everything was eaten up by battery fluid. damn **** looking. but now its good :-)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by @ries »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ouch x 10! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Ya thats no beuno
Ya thats no beuno







