Trying to rewire my injector harness...first I have to extend the wires, then attach the clips on the newly extended wires. I started to extend the wires, but my soldering skills arent the best and I need to know if this is safe or not. i like to keep it ghetto, but Im wondering if this is too ghetto haha. what do you think? keep the wiseass comments to yourself please

 

thats fine, as long as you can't pull them apart.

 

A bit too much solder for my taste, but it l00ks fine. (You did heat up the wires and not the solder, ri? That way the solder is drawn into the wires for a much better connection.)

Now go get some shrink tubing before you connect the other end of the extension to anything.

 

You need heatshrink tubing!!

 

nice!! I thought I mutilated it but I guess Im better than I thought w00t!

but I wish I had a 3rd hand.

will electrical tape work as "shrink wrap"? thats how it was done before and seemed to protect it fine.

 

Something I like to do, but isn't necessary is to twist the wires together before soldering them. After twisting the wires together they are strong enough to hold together without the use of solder (though they will still be soldered). I like to make it so that the soldered joints do not have to take all of the force.

Maybe I'm just **** though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will electrical tape work as "shrink wrap"? thats how it was done before and seemed to protect it fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Always use heat shrink.

Electrical tape can get old, unravel and turn into a big slimy mess.

Heat shrink will never unravel over time. Do it right the first time.

 

thanks reid and everyone else.

sucks doing this stuff by myself for the first time with no help so Im glad you guys are around!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sucks doing this stuff by myself for the first time with no help so Im glad you guys are around!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just make sure you have good, solid connections and heatshrink to cover any exposed wire.

I don't want to see you start a thread about how your ITR burned to the ground.

Reid - who remembers when a local ITR's carpet caught on fire due to a shoddy MSD install...

 

looks like there's too much solder, but it's fine. you'll be a pro soon. btw, heating up the wire never works for me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Something I like to do, but isn't necessary is to twist the wires together before soldering them. After twisting the wires together they are strong enough to hold together without the use of solder (though they will still be soldered). I like to make it so that the soldered joints do not have to take all of the force.

Maybe I'm just **** though. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice!! I thought I mutilated it but I guess Im better than I thought w00t!

but I wish I had a 3rd hand.

will electrical tape work as "shrink wrap"? thats how it was done before and seemed to protect it fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>


no electrical tape gets old and starts to get all shitty after a while.... heat shrink tubbing works best and makes for a nice looking finish to the project.

 

the "heating the wire" method is not working so Im just doing what Ive been doing.

**** thieves for cutting my god damn harness!!!

 

what can happen if there is too much solder??? is that a bad thing? does it ruin the connection? if I put any less I feel like Im not putting enough and it doesnt connect all the copper wires.

 

Just use enough that when it cools you can not pull them apart

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sucks doing this stuff by myself for the first time with no help so Im glad you guys are around!</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you live anywhere near the GWB, you're more than welcome to stop by my house with your setup the way it is now, and I'll help you clean everything up. Once we're finished, they'll look like they came from the factory.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you live anywhere near the GWB, you're more than welcome to stop by my house with your setup the way it is now, and I'll help you clean everything up. Once we're finished, they'll look like they came from the factory. </TD></TR></TABLE>

He got no motor...

 

Hmm... That might make the trip a little tough, huh. Ah well, the offer stands anyway.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you live anywhere near the GWB, you're more than welcome to stop by my house with your setup the way it is now, and I'll help you clean everything up. Once we're finished, they'll look like they came from the factory. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the generosity but unfortunately as Rob stated, I have no motor. maybe when all is said and done I can swing by to clean some things up.

 

Youll usually want to have a solid connection before soldering (twist, then solder) and then add a little bit of solder to "lock" the connection (for lack of a better word).

You can tell a good solder connection from a bad one, if you heat up the wire and not the solder to make the connection it will be a nice shiny connection (good).

If you heat up the solder and not the wire it will be a "cold" joint. and will be almost satiny and dull looking, and extrememly weak (bad).

shiny = good
dull = bad

-s

 

My technique;
1) Preheat the soldering iorn.
2) Twist the wires together.
3) 1 drop of liquid flux at the joint.
4) Heat the wires, flux will start to evaporate.
5) Stab in the solder from the opposite side as the soldering iron.

The solder will wick into the strands of the wire... you'll know when you do it right. Liquid flux is the way to go, the flux core stuff isn't so hot.