All motor or Turbo
I have an easy 10 grand to play with. If I went all motor I was going to go high compression: GSR block 11.5:1 JE pistons with stage 2 cams, tit valves and retainers. new stiffer srings, new manifold and 72mm throttle body, bosch 440cc injectors, full CTR trans with diff, Haltech FMU, type r suspension blah blah blah
If I went turbo I would just go large turbo with stock compression and a good FMU, new cams blah blah blah
I just want to know the pros and cons with other people's setups. I want to knopw if all motor is really worth it or not.
If I went turbo I would just go large turbo with stock compression and a good FMU, new cams blah blah blah
I just want to know the pros and cons with other people's setups. I want to knopw if all motor is really worth it or not.
All motor - More money, more reliable, less power.
Turbo - Less money, less reliable, more power.
With such small displacement, I suggest the turbo route for maximum gains. If I were working on an LS1, I'd say go all-motor for simplicity. Either way, keep enough money on hand to buy a new motor in case you blow up your current one.
If you go turbo, realize that you're forcing an engine to become something it wasn't designed for. You're going to have to constantly monitor it, get some additional gagues (preferably Exhaust gas temp, A/F ratio, boost), and baby it for it in the hopes it'll last more than 10,000 miles.
Plenty of people have had their motors turbo'ed from day one, and still going strong. These people either know what they're doing, or have a good tuner to watch it's status.
As far as all-motor goes, you run into a variety of similar problems if you run high-compression. But you're going to have to do research on that one...
Turbo - Less money, less reliable, more power.
With such small displacement, I suggest the turbo route for maximum gains. If I were working on an LS1, I'd say go all-motor for simplicity. Either way, keep enough money on hand to buy a new motor in case you blow up your current one.
If you go turbo, realize that you're forcing an engine to become something it wasn't designed for. You're going to have to constantly monitor it, get some additional gagues (preferably Exhaust gas temp, A/F ratio, boost), and baby it for it in the hopes it'll last more than 10,000 miles.
Plenty of people have had their motors turbo'ed from day one, and still going strong. These people either know what they're doing, or have a good tuner to watch it's status.
As far as all-motor goes, you run into a variety of similar problems if you run high-compression. But you're going to have to do research on that one...
you have enough money to build a really reliable and powerful turbo setup. if you went all motor you could build up pretty much everything in your engine and it would sound absolutley amazing
but do a little more searching. you need to figure out first on what you gonna do then ask usk for advice. we cant make it for ya
but do a little more searching. you need to figure out first on what you gonna do then ask usk for advice. we cant make it for ya
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gawd this debate has been run to teh ground but....
All motor - More money, more reliable, less power.
Turbo - Less money, less reliable, more power.
I say the above statements are wrong!
All Motor- Look into doing a B20z/b16a block and head. Great combo creates great torque and power.
Turbo- Can be very reliable just depends on how much your willing to spend. Key part here is tunning. And be sure to up-grade internals so you can run high boost.
Other than that is personal preffrence. Do you want to be king of N/A or do you want to be another FI kid trying to hit 9's.
Thus being said
All motor - High Cost, Can be reliable, Great power.
Turbo - High Cost, Can be reliable, Great power.
All motor - More money, more reliable, less power.
Turbo - Less money, less reliable, more power.
I say the above statements are wrong!
All Motor- Look into doing a B20z/b16a block and head. Great combo creates great torque and power.
Turbo- Can be very reliable just depends on how much your willing to spend. Key part here is tunning. And be sure to up-grade internals so you can run high boost.
Other than that is personal preffrence. Do you want to be king of N/A or do you want to be another FI kid trying to hit 9's.
Thus being said
All motor - High Cost, Can be reliable, Great power.
Turbo - High Cost, Can be reliable, Great power.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by senseiturtle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you go turbo, realize that you're forcing an engine to become something it wasn't designed for. You're going to have to constantly monitor it, get some additional gagues (preferably Exhaust gas temp, A/F ratio, boost), and baby it for it in the hopes it'll last more than 10,000 miles.
Plenty of people have had their motors turbo'ed from day one, and still going strong. These people either know what they're doing, or have a good tuner to watch it's status.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Durr...
I don't see how you can build/install a turbo system... and not "know what you're doing" enough to take care of it so it lasts.
If you go turbo, realize that you're forcing an engine to become something it wasn't designed for. You're going to have to constantly monitor it, get some additional gagues (preferably Exhaust gas temp, A/F ratio, boost), and baby it for it in the hopes it'll last more than 10,000 miles.
Plenty of people have had their motors turbo'ed from day one, and still going strong. These people either know what they're doing, or have a good tuner to watch it's status.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Durr...
I don't see how you can build/install a turbo system... and not "know what you're doing" enough to take care of it so it lasts.
i say turbo
hondata w/ecu tuned - 800-1000 new
turbo kit - 2000-2500 new depending what u get
gauges - $150 new
3inch exhaust - 550 new
mbc- 50
fuel pump - 100 new
clutch - 400 new
3inch high flow cat - 100 new
450/550 injectors - $250-$300 new
i may be forgeting some things but u get the idea
and run 10psi on a stock block 250whp-300whp
if u more boost.. pistons and rods, sleeve it
get jg intake manifold and etc...........
hondata w/ecu tuned - 800-1000 new
turbo kit - 2000-2500 new depending what u get
gauges - $150 new
3inch exhaust - 550 new
mbc- 50
fuel pump - 100 new
clutch - 400 new
3inch high flow cat - 100 new
450/550 injectors - $250-$300 new
i may be forgeting some things but u get the idea
and run 10psi on a stock block 250whp-300whp
if u more boost.. pistons and rods, sleeve it
get jg intake manifold and etc...........
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Beavis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All motor - More money, more reliable, less power.
Turbo - Less money, less reliable, more power.</TD></TR></TABLE>
just like khelm said, turbo can be quite reliable as long as you have the right tuning. You would have more fun with turbo.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Beavis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">k20 swap and turbo! LoL</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha you wish
Turbo - Less money, less reliable, more power.</TD></TR></TABLE>
just like khelm said, turbo can be quite reliable as long as you have the right tuning. You would have more fun with turbo.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Beavis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">k20 swap and turbo! LoL</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha you wish
Well then it looks like I am going to go turbo then, You say that hondata is only 1000 new? Didnt know it was that cheap. I will post setup at later date to get everyone's opinions. Thanks.
if u wanna save money, go with uberdata, almost same thing as hondata.
uberdata, you have to chip yourself or buy socketed/chipped ecu, download the program for free and away you go with tuning with a wideband.
hondata, pay $600+ for a piggyback program, easier to install, and you have to go get it dynoed.
if your computer literate, research more about uberdata, if not, go with hondata and waste $600+
goodluck
uberdata, you have to chip yourself or buy socketed/chipped ecu, download the program for free and away you go with tuning with a wideband.
hondata, pay $600+ for a piggyback program, easier to install, and you have to go get it dynoed.
if your computer literate, research more about uberdata, if not, go with hondata and waste $600+
goodluck
Everyone knows turbo motors are fun as hell, but come on who can resist building a na motor with proper cams intake manifold, exhaust and intake setup, then the a vafc, and get nice tuning , who cares about max hp numbers show them 200 hp+ to the wheels all the way through vtec and believe me you will be untouchable, and still have decent gas mileage if driven properly, plus reliability is not to bad as long as you have good tires and solid motor mounts
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec65 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rebuild and turbo </TD></TR></TABLE>
My words exactly!
My words exactly!
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