WHAT RINGS SHOULD I USE WITH MY WISECO PISTONS ON STOCK BLOCK? THE XC RINGS THAT COME WITH THE WISECOS? OR DO I HAVE TO SLEEVE IT TO GO WITH AFTERMARKET PISTONS AT ALL?

 

you would have to sleeve it

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=416069

 

Nicasil. Nickel/Silicon.

"Nicasil is an expensive technology used for coating the cylinders of only the best quality engines on the market. It is far superior to sleeved and hard-chromed cylinder walls. It is a coating made up of nickel and silicon carbide. The Nicasil coating is very hard and durable thus providing a very long wearing surface for the piston and rings. Also the silicon carbide particles that are dispersed throughout the nickel form a multitude of adhesion spots on which oil can collect. This is another reason that engines with Nicasil coated cylinders last longer because of having improved cylinder lubrication. Also because the Nicasil coating literally impregnates the cylinder walls with silicon the result is a super low coefficient of friction, thus reducing engine heat and wear. Engines with Nicasil coated cylinders run cooler and with less vibration. Lower friction also means easier and quicker engine starts. Also an additional benefit is that the piston and cylinder expand at the same rate, thus, creating a very seizure-resistant engine".

Yes, you generally need to bore or sleeve it for good ring seal. A good machine shop will be able to analyze your block and make the proper determination.

 

First of all thank you all for the info. Next, I am running a Hondata S200 and will be running nitrous via the Hondata system. I am pretty sure that I know the answer to this question but I want to make sure there is not some quality of the oem style block that yeilds better performance w/ nitrous. Question: to run up to and no more than a 75hp shot, will I be better off to stay with the oem sleeves or do a simple Darton resleeve?

 

are you planning on running aftermarket pistons, if so you have to sleeve

 

Ok, alittle more info for you guys. I built this engine for the owner. Before I got it he had it built by a v-8 engine builder. This guy had no idea about the nicoseal crap. When I cracked it open I found that (1) cyl had been re-sleeved and the rest were oem and had been honed!!!! He was running SRP pistons w/ SRP rings!!!! It is and H23 block w/ H22 Head, all 4th gen items.

So here is what I did. I purchased a Darton re-sleeve kit and had a local machine shop install them. I used Wiseco pistons, Eagle Rods, Cometic HG, and a Hondata S200. I always perform the brake-in myself on all engines that I build, usually put a base tune into the Hondata, put 500-1000 miles on the engine test the engine again (comp, leak, borescope, etc...) and then dyno tune for power. At 500 miles it developed a very LOUD pecking noise. I then comp leak tested and noticed air coming from #'s 1 & 3 when I was putting air pressure into cyl # 2!!! I pulled the head and the # 2 sleeve had sunk 4.5mm!!!!! After I pulled the engine and dissembled it I noticed that it appeared that on that cyl and on the # 4 also the block had been machined down farther than the other 2 (they had run the boring bit too deep and then when they pressed the sleeves in those two were not touching anything on the bottom, and it allowed the # 2 to sink and I believe #4 was not too far behind) And to add to it the bottom of #2 (the one that sunk) I noticed that someone had run a tig weld bead along the bottom edge, in certain spots!! I assume that this was to try and put some material there so it wouldn't sink. In other words the machine shop knew what they had done and tried to fix it.

Now the machine shop has it back and I am making them fix it w/ my through inspection or buy another block and sleeve it properly, with me present when it is done!!! I am now able to do the sleeving work myself at my shop but I was unable to do it when this engine was built. Since they are paying for it I am letting them do it but I will be present when the work is performed.

The reason for this thread is since I am starting form square 1 again and I might have to get another block I wanted to make sure that sleeving was the way to go still. Thank you to all for your help!!!! And if any of you have any ideas or suggestions for this project (running nitrous) please let me know.

 

wow great reply i just had my h22 block resleeved by a local machine shop and dude did the same thing #2 and #4 are deeper than #1 and #3, but dude told me he has been sleeving for 27 years and that it is the proper way to fit the sleeve into the block, or something. well im bout to build it xmas week so hopefully i dont have your same problem

 

So, are you saying that / do you know if, the block is cast / machined from honda w/ those particular cyllinders deeper than the others. Or, is this the result of the machine shops that you and I have chosen to do the work's fault? In other words, did the block come with those holes deeper or did our machine shops bore them too deep by accident?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DSLHONDA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So, are you saying that / do you know if, the block is cast / machined from honda w/ those particular cyllinders deeper than the others. Or, is this the result of the machine shops that you and I have chosen to do the work's fault? In other words, did the block come with those holes deeper or did our machine shops bore them too deep by accident?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The hole depth dimension is up to the machine operator based on the sleeve/block height relationship. The Darton blueprints have all the info. They made a mistake and tried to fix it, improperly. It can be fixed depending on what's left to work with where the sleeve seats.

Jim