Dyno/Time Slip of my EG LS powered Hatch
dont worry man my first time out in my Si HB with a b18c1/b16 trans (stock) i did an awfsome :
15.1 @ 91 with a 2.3 60'
full interior hatch a/c, p/s, spare still in place (1/8th of a tank)
it did weigh 2650
with me in it though
2450 with out me
Next time out 100lbs lighter 14.8 @ 93 w/a 2.2 60'
15.1 @ 91 with a 2.3 60'
full interior hatch a/c, p/s, spare still in place (1/8th of a tank)
it did weigh 2650
with me in it though 2450 with out me
Next time out 100lbs lighter 14.8 @ 93 w/a 2.2 60'
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civkid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats not bad for a straigh LS motor..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes it is, moron. That's terrible for a B18B swap.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civkid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need to put a VTEC head on that though.. then you can get around the 200whp range with the right cams..</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't need VTEC to make power here. Instead of a VTEC head and cams, why not a turbocharger and tuning, hmmm? Then you'll be solidly in the 12's if you can figure out which pedal is which.
Yes it is, moron. That's terrible for a B18B swap.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civkid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need to put a VTEC head on that though.. then you can get around the 200whp range with the right cams..</TD></TR></TABLE>
You don't need VTEC to make power here. Instead of a VTEC head and cams, why not a turbocharger and tuning, hmmm? Then you'll be solidly in the 12's if you can figure out which pedal is which.
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I ran 14.903 in an 90 civic si with D series. Cam,TB, Header, EX, port(maybe-cant remember it was 10 years ago). No slicks, open diff d series si trans
15's seem kinda slow for you
Modified by MR5sARECOOL at 2:07 AM 12/8/2004
15's seem kinda slow for you
Modified by MR5sARECOOL at 2:07 AM 12/8/2004
thats besides the fact that...well IMO... i could be wrong but.... you went through alot of time and money to do this b-eries swap... (w/mods might i add) only to get like 4 HP and maybe a .4 sec. better 1320....(well over a z6 or y8 for that matter... i know u gotta cx but from my standpoint) with all the money spent on a b-series swap the bitch better put me in the mid 13s at least... (AKA: i stick with my z6 i think)
this not including... the feller i know swaped the same motor and ran a 15.20 in an ej1.... cool swap and all but... still dont see how its worth it... ok maybe in the long run... a b-series could take the d- aftermarket wise and respondence to bolt ons and such... and the feller i know has only a short ram intake... and a RSR gt2... no clutch or header or nothin...
:~jus got done watchin blue collar boys rides on...... (its the new one LOL)~:
this not including... the feller i know swaped the same motor and ran a 15.20 in an ej1.... cool swap and all but... still dont see how its worth it... ok maybe in the long run... a b-series could take the d- aftermarket wise and respondence to bolt ons and such... and the feller i know has only a short ram intake... and a RSR gt2... no clutch or header or nothin...
:~jus got done watchin blue collar boys rides on...... (its the new one LOL)~:
my 93 si with intake and exhaust, stock clutch, stock header, street tires ran 15.4.
Your car is slow, and this business about shifting with the clutch half in, what is this nonsense? why dont you do yourself a favor and ditch that tranny its kiling you.
Your car is slow, and this business about shifting with the clutch half in, what is this nonsense? why dont you do yourself a favor and ditch that tranny its kiling you.
Good luck on the rebuild! Sounds like you will be on your way to making some decent power after the rebuild, keep us informed!
Dont worry about the track #'s you will get better the more you go!
Dont worry about the track #'s you will get better the more you go!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes it is, moron. That's terrible for a B18B swap.
You don't need VTEC to make power here. Instead of a VTEC head and cams, why not a turbocharger and tuning, hmmm? Then you'll be solidly in the 12's if you can figure out which pedal is which.</TD></TR></TABLE>
LMAO. No one is rich like you, or EVERYONE will be running 12's.
As for 92Lx, that time is pretty bad but practice makes perfect
. I ran 15.7 two times with my B18a (1993 Integra) with a DC header, lame CAI, and skunk2 ECU. Oh, this was my first time at Sacramento Raceway and my 60ft times were 2.6-2.8.
Yes it is, moron. That's terrible for a B18B swap.
You don't need VTEC to make power here. Instead of a VTEC head and cams, why not a turbocharger and tuning, hmmm? Then you'll be solidly in the 12's if you can figure out which pedal is which.</TD></TR></TABLE>
LMAO. No one is rich like you, or EVERYONE will be running 12's.
As for 92Lx, that time is pretty bad but practice makes perfect
. I ran 15.7 two times with my B18a (1993 Integra) with a DC header, lame CAI, and skunk2 ECU. Oh, this was my first time at Sacramento Raceway and my 60ft times were 2.6-2.8.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92Lx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You guys who keep posting that your stockish si's ran 15.4-14.9 or so, what were your 60fts, trap speeds, etc.... I'm just kind of curious to know where potentially I'm screwing up and can pick up some time.
I think when the tracks open back up I'll be out there seeing what's up. I've only gotten in 6 runs so far, so we'll see how my driving improves along with the car. Still a little depressed about the times, but I guess it all comes in practice.
that 15.4 is pretty good for an Si hatch, considering they only run about 16.5 stock with a descent driver. 125hp, not much less than me, 20hp less, and about the same weight. So ya, if I run my best possible time of around 15.2 or 15.3 then I'd be doing pretty well driving wise. Good stuff guys
- Nathan
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not sure on the 60's im guessing 2.0-2.2's not sure on the traps, it was like four years ago?
seriously tranny swap.
good luck
I think when the tracks open back up I'll be out there seeing what's up. I've only gotten in 6 runs so far, so we'll see how my driving improves along with the car. Still a little depressed about the times, but I guess it all comes in practice.
that 15.4 is pretty good for an Si hatch, considering they only run about 16.5 stock with a descent driver. 125hp, not much less than me, 20hp less, and about the same weight. So ya, if I run my best possible time of around 15.2 or 15.3 then I'd be doing pretty well driving wise. Good stuff guys

- Nathan
</TD></TR></TABLE>Not sure on the 60's im guessing 2.0-2.2's not sure on the traps, it was like four years ago?
seriously tranny swap.
good luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92Lx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your times are essentially the same as mine if they were 15.7 with a 2.6 60' time
, and mods are also very similar
.
I dunno, for 126whp, in a 2300 lb car - without a 2.0-2.2 60' (which is darn near impossible for an unexperienced driver with crappy street tires + open diff), I'm going to have a hard time getting better than 15.4 anyway - on paper. But, practice does make perfect, and I'm going to be going for that 2.1 60' goal that I have ;o).
2055 stock curb weight (that doesn't include fluids) + 150 driver = 2305 lbs. According to my calcs, assuming 100% traction - the car could run a 15.3 flat on street tires, assuming the car was performing as it was on my 3rd dyno run in the link. I realy don't think that my time is so much due to my driving as it is the hard facts of a "stock" B18B1 hatch w/ no weight reduction. I'm not giving up though ;o)
Anyone have any suggestions on transmission stuff? I'm thinking about just tossing an LSD unit in, of course, that's $$, but all the same. Daily driving is an issue, so I can't put anything in that's going to rev to 4500rpm at 60mph in 5th gear, if you understand my meaning, but any ideas are welcome.
I'm guessing a B16 tranny would be too short, and a GS-R is probably not much shorter than the LS tranny, etc...
- Nathan</TD></TR></TABLE>
except my car is heavier, has 125hp to the crank not the wheels, and was .3 seconds faster. You cant say that, since your 60' was 2.6 and you ran a 15.7, and I ran a 15,4 with a 2.0-2.2 then our times are the same.
Until you run a faster time than 15.7 your car runs 15.
gsr tranny if you dont want to tach to high.
, and mods are also very similar
.I dunno, for 126whp, in a 2300 lb car - without a 2.0-2.2 60' (which is darn near impossible for an unexperienced driver with crappy street tires + open diff), I'm going to have a hard time getting better than 15.4 anyway - on paper. But, practice does make perfect, and I'm going to be going for that 2.1 60' goal that I have ;o).
2055 stock curb weight (that doesn't include fluids) + 150 driver = 2305 lbs. According to my calcs, assuming 100% traction - the car could run a 15.3 flat on street tires, assuming the car was performing as it was on my 3rd dyno run in the link. I realy don't think that my time is so much due to my driving as it is the hard facts of a "stock" B18B1 hatch w/ no weight reduction. I'm not giving up though ;o)
Anyone have any suggestions on transmission stuff? I'm thinking about just tossing an LSD unit in, of course, that's $$, but all the same. Daily driving is an issue, so I can't put anything in that's going to rev to 4500rpm at 60mph in 5th gear, if you understand my meaning, but any ideas are welcome.
I'm guessing a B16 tranny would be too short, and a GS-R is probably not much shorter than the LS tranny, etc...
- Nathan</TD></TR></TABLE>
except my car is heavier, has 125hp to the crank not the wheels, and was .3 seconds faster. You cant say that, since your 60' was 2.6 and you ran a 15.7, and I ran a 15,4 with a 2.0-2.2 then our times are the same.
Until you run a faster time than 15.7 your car runs 15.
gsr tranny if you dont want to tach to high.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MR5sARECOOL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ran 14.903 in an 90 civic si with D series. Cam,TB, Header, EX, port(maybe-cant remember it was 10 years ago). No slicks, open diff d series si trans
15's seem kinda slow for you
Modified by MR5sARECOOL at 2:07 AM 12/8/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah i ran a 9.98 in the 1/8mile and then a 15.1 in the 1/4mile
Setup:
d16z6
6.5 lb fidanza flywheel & act hdss clutch kit
Used DC header
Ebay cai
Dc catback
VAFC
to the original poster.. as everyone stated get some practice and try some drag radials.... because right now my little d-series would get you.
15's seem kinda slow for you
Modified by MR5sARECOOL at 2:07 AM 12/8/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah i ran a 9.98 in the 1/8mile and then a 15.1 in the 1/4mile
Setup:
d16z6
6.5 lb fidanza flywheel & act hdss clutch kit
Used DC header
Ebay cai
Dc catback
VAFC
to the original poster.. as everyone stated get some practice and try some drag radials.... because right now my little d-series would get you.
Dunno about the 1/4 mile times, but the engine power seems fairly on par. My LS motor put down 113whp last year down at P1. That's on stock header and exhaust, no tuning.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes it is, moron. That's terrible for a B18B swap..</TD></TR></TABLE>
your the idiot here.. stock LS's make no power and aren't fast, so a 15. anything is good for a LS..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You don't need VTEC to make power here. Instead of a VTEC head and cams, why not a turbocharger and tuning, hmmm? Then you'll be solidly in the 12's if you can figure out which pedal is which.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and moreover adding a VTEC head would be cheaper than turbo.. i've built many motors, and i do know what is what, so no need to try to bash..
Yes it is, moron. That's terrible for a B18B swap..</TD></TR></TABLE>
your the idiot here.. stock LS's make no power and aren't fast, so a 15. anything is good for a LS..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You don't need VTEC to make power here. Instead of a VTEC head and cams, why not a turbocharger and tuning, hmmm? Then you'll be solidly in the 12's if you can figure out which pedal is which.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and moreover adding a VTEC head would be cheaper than turbo.. i've built many motors, and i do know what is what, so no need to try to bash..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civkid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
your the idiot here.. stock LS's make no power and aren't fast, so a 15. anything is good for a LS..
and moreover adding a VTEC head would be cheaper than turbo.. i've built many motors, and i do know what is what, so no need to try to bash..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not to burst your bubble but I ran a 14.7 in the 1/4 mile with my old bone stock LS and B16 tranny in a EH Hatch, SI in fact(the heaviest model for the 92-95 HB's). This is on crappy street tires too.
I was far more impressed with my LS swap than the B16 i had before that!
Swapping a vtec head would most likely be cheaper, however a turbo would make far more power. It all depends if you want to go allmotor or FI.
your the idiot here.. stock LS's make no power and aren't fast, so a 15. anything is good for a LS..
and moreover adding a VTEC head would be cheaper than turbo.. i've built many motors, and i do know what is what, so no need to try to bash..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not to burst your bubble but I ran a 14.7 in the 1/4 mile with my old bone stock LS and B16 tranny in a EH Hatch, SI in fact(the heaviest model for the 92-95 HB's). This is on crappy street tires too.
I was far more impressed with my LS swap than the B16 i had before that!
Swapping a vtec head would most likely be cheaper, however a turbo would make far more power. It all depends if you want to go allmotor or FI.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid_vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Not to burst your bubble but I ran a 14.7 in the 1/4 mile with my old bone stock LS and B16 tranny in a EH Hatch, SI in fact(the heaviest model for the 92-95 HB's). This is on crappy street tires too.
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was about to say. I need to go get mine dynoed again , cuz I can swear I made more power then that before I went with FI on that motor with no AC/ Ps
your reaction times could be a little better. Were you on standard or Pro- Tree?
B18A1 or B1
Not to burst your bubble but I ran a 14.7 in the 1/4 mile with my old bone stock LS and B16 tranny in a EH Hatch, SI in fact(the heaviest model for the 92-95 HB's). This is on crappy street tires too.
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was about to say. I need to go get mine dynoed again , cuz I can swear I made more power then that before I went with FI on that motor with no AC/ Ps
your reaction times could be a little better. Were you on standard or Pro- Tree?
B18A1 or B1
Welcome to Raleigh. I'm currently parting my car out and may end up with a turboed B18B or B20. I'd like to take a ride in that car just to see how the powerband sans turbo is.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuracrombie82 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
your reaction times could be a little better. Were you on standard or Pro- Tree?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
And by the way, unless your bracket racing, reaction times have nothing to do with your time. You could sit there for 10 seconds and still run a 15.
your reaction times could be a little better. Were you on standard or Pro- Tree?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
And by the way, unless your bracket racing, reaction times have nothing to do with your time. You could sit there for 10 seconds and still run a 15.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And by the way, unless your bracket racing, reaction times have nothing to do with your time. You could sit there for 10 seconds and still run a 15.</TD></TR></TABLE>
As soon as your car makes the slightest move your reaction time is recorded, so the quicker you move from a dead stop to a full roll does matter no matter how little the result can be.
oh and if you're looking for a motor I have a B16 for sale.
And by the way, unless your bracket racing, reaction times have nothing to do with your time. You could sit there for 10 seconds and still run a 15.</TD></TR></TABLE>
As soon as your car makes the slightest move your reaction time is recorded, so the quicker you move from a dead stop to a full roll does matter no matter how little the result can be.
oh and if you're looking for a motor I have a B16 for sale.



