Hey could someone explain the symptoms of a bad map sensor? I think thats what my problem is:

Random Stalls
Car turns off
Idle fluctuation
Loss of power
Violent acceleration


I threw a code 3 a few days ago, then restared ecu and nothings came up;..... now only code 12 but i blocked off the egr so its not he problem

 

Did you check your spark plug wires? It could be loose.

 

Did you get the firing order correct on the Dizzy cap vs cylinder?

 

well imena the car ran fine fo ra while this is jsut random

i changed the dizzy cap and rotor like 1 1/2 months ago with no problems

quick question


What is the Oil light?

when the car turned off.. it comes on.. I forgot if it always did?


Im soo fricken angry, i want to sell it.. its ben a headache recently

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkspeedVtec95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well imena the car ran fine fo ra while this is jsut random

i changed the dizzy cap and rotor like 1 1/2 months ago with no problems

quick question


What is the Oil light?

when the car turned off.. it comes on.. I forgot if it always did?


Im soo fricken angry, i want to sell it.. its ben a headache recently</TD></TR></TABLE>

Calm down, you're getting frustrated.

Just go check your dizzy/spark plug wires to make sure they're snugged. It could of became loose and failed.

The oil light comes on but should not stay on.

Edit: the oil light comes on while the car is off? now that's weird. go check your oil.

 

When you first start the car or if it stalls the battery and oil light come on. They should go out after the car is running or your not getting oil pressure.

 

mine does the same exact thing darkspeedvtec95! like you said: random stalls, car turns off, idle fluctuation, loss of power, violet acceleration. when it stalls the battery and oil light comes on!!! heres what i was told by ludeguy from automotiveforums.com:

could be any number of things I imagine. what rpm does your car usually idle at? are you sure its idle rpm is set correctly? does your car throw any codes?, only warm stalling with clutch in? or both when you first start up for the day as well (even if it's a hot day), does it cut or lull anywhere else in the powerband?

On cold days the air is denser (ie: all the little oxygen particles are closer/huddling together), so it's easier for your car to inhale so to speak, therefore it has in abundance of the air to mix with the fuel - in a stoiciometrically correct ratio that if i remember correctly is 14:1 (that's fourteen parts of air to 1 part of fuel) or somewhere threreabouts. (although i think honda's might get richer than that as rpm is increased to protect the engine? anyways...). On hotter days, the air is much less dense (way less oxygen particles grouped together cuz it's hot so they need their space yo) if even your filter isn't clean (is it?) it becomes much harder for your car to well - inhale, in order to keep the stoicometrically correct ratio. I'm not saying it's your filter or anything that simple - but i imagine it's something that's interfering with maintaining that ratio. Or your rpm is set to low to maintain idle - atleast on the hot days - simply increasing your rpm to fix the problem (if it is something else) would obviously be bad - and often accelerate the wear on what it is that is really causing the problem.

In any case this is just the helms manual breakdown of what might be the culprit - but then again perhaps your idle is just set to low, your filter is dirtier than paris hilton, your timing is off or god knows what else.


Cold Stalling
------------
1) Idle Air Control Valve
2) Other Idle Controls
3) Other Fuel Supply (ie bad fuel)/Engine Coolant Temp sensor

Warm Stalling
-------------
1) Other fuel supply (ie bad fuel)
2) Exhaust Gas Recirculation
3) Idle Air Control Valve

I hope this helps.... maybe someone else who has experienced this exact problem can help ya better.

all the best.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22A1TLUDE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> when it stalls the battery and oil light comes on!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

What did you expect? The alternator and oil pump are no longer spinning.

 

[QUOTE=BrokeLude]

What did you expect? The alternator and oil pump are no longer spinning.

duh. thanks brokelude.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22A1TLUDE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[QUOTE=BrokeLude]

What did you expect? The alternator and oil pump are no longer spinning.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

duh. thanks brokelude

 

You're welcome.

 

alright just checked distributor. they seem to be fine... Just pulled the map sensor

Denso (replaced?)

and appears to bbe fine here are pics










Um... where is the iacv located?

 

IACV is located on the Front of the intake manifold. Cant miss it even if you wanted to.




and no this is not my dirty **** motor

 

this is definately an intermittent MAP problem, or maybe you have a leaky vac line to the map....

honda uses denso electronics, so no it probably isnt replaced, and if it is, the denso name isnt the telltale......

but since you threw a code 3....and you have terrible idle and stalling probs....im thinkin its the MAP.....theyre expensive.....

 

check to make sure all vac lines are capped or connected, as far as the map goes, try a friends to see if it makes a diff, f series ones will work and the h22/h23 are the same

 

ok i was just forced to run to work casue i couldn't get a ride and turns out i didn't even have to

anwyyas.. NO problems

maybe i fixed somethin when i uninstalled then reinstalled?


should i get a new map just to make sure?


from what ive reserched ishould be able to find one for under 60$.. that reasonable?

 

You may have a vacuum leak that you fixed with the reinstall. I'd say wait and see what happens. Also, check for leaks.

 

If you have a VAFC it might be that. I had the symptoms that were pretty close to what your describing. Try disconecting the map bypass wires and putting it back to stock. After I did that my car ran like a champ again. But of couse this now mean you have a $200 vtec controller that does not do any fuel adjustments

 

which color wire is it.. maybe its a bad connection

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sushi X &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have a VAFC it might be that. I had the symptoms that were pretty close to what your describing. Try disconecting the map bypass wires and putting it back to stock. After I did that my car ran like a champ again. But of couse this now mean you have a $200 vtec controller that does not do any fuel adjustments</TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds like you made a bad wiring connection there somewhere....it normally wouldnt do that

if i remember correctly the map sensor wires are the white and yellow