Is it just me, or is it REALLY hard to get the bolts off for the cylinder head?

What size are the bolts?

Are they not normal 17mm bolts?

Do they turn counter clock wise to come off?

The service manual is a little light on the specifics.

Gerhard

 

I cant remember exactly because I have been using AEBS head studs for a while now but I though they were like 14mm bolts... They come off just like regular bolts but they are torqued down to like 80 lbs... Get a breaker bar and give it some good ole elbow grease...

 

if im not mistaken they are 17mm, just do like sam said and grab a breaker bar.

 

I tried a 400lb impact gun in reverse... and they didn't budge...

(I then read the manual and it says to back them off 1/3 of a turn at a time to prevent warpage... so I stopped.)

Humph.

I also tried a breaker bar... and that didn't work...

Craaaap.

 

i also thought it was 14 mm nuts

 

I just went and checked and yeah they are definitely 14mm... But uh yeah breaker bar should do the trick(1/3 at a time just like the manual says)... If you can't get them off then maybe it is time to hit them gym... I'm just kidding, but sometimes they can be a bitch so get some friends to help you push on the breaker bar if you cant get them off...

 

Actually, I'm quite strong...

The real problem is that the damn block is not attached to an engine stand.

(So I've got to figure out how to levelage it properly....)

I'll give it another try... thanks guys.

 

They are a 12point 14mm
You need to use a breaker bar, they will not sound good when they do break loose.
I broke a crafstman socket taking mine off, so yeah what you're experiencing isn't all that strange.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by precord96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They are a 12point 14mm</TD></TR></TABLE>

Mine were regular 6 point bolts... Hmmm...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gerhard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually, I'm quite strong...

The real problem is that the damn block is not attached to an engine stand.

(So I've got to figure out how to levelage it properly....)

I'll give it another try... thanks guys.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok that is your problem, now I understand... I don't have an engine stand either so whenever I have a motor out it is difficult to take the headbolts off... I tried to have people help me break it loose but in the end they came off with me using a breaker bar by myself and giving it all the might I had while one foot was pushing against the block as it tried to turn with the wrench... Hope that made sense...

 

6 point 14 huh? everyone i worked on was 12 point 14

 

I just realized that I never had H22 head bolts... Mine were from my H23, I didn't even think about the fact that the bolt size would be different... My bizzle...

 

wow first off don't hit it with an impact wrench, you want to loosen them slowly in a criss cross pattern to avoid warping the head. secondly best way I've found to leverage it when the motor is sitting ont he ground is haave a buddy push that motor agains a solid wall or something sturdy, that way you have a better chance at keeping it still,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrettyLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">6 point 14 huh? everyone i worked on was 12 point 14</TD></TR></TABLE>

on about half a dozen h22s i've pulled apart usdm or jdm, they were all 6pt 14mm bolts, and also all the countless honda motoors i've pulled they are all 6pt as well, though the b-series were 12mm bolts i believe. the only time I use a 12pt socket is for head studs like ARPs, etc. Perhaps its something new?




Modified by Eddiebx at 8:35 PM 12/7/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gerhard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The real problem is that the damn block is not attached to an engine stand.

(So I've got to figure out how to levelage it properly....)

I'll give it another try... thanks guys.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had the same problem with my H22. I just took a 5' 2x4 and used some nylon tie-downs to attach the 2x4 so I had something I could lever against.

Pirate

 

Got the head off... actually, the cylinders look pretty damn good.

The H22A4 head uses 10 14mm 12point bolts.

I had to use a 5 foot tube attached to a 1/2 breaker bar... Jesus... that was hard.

 

Congrats...