i have a 94 honda civic cx with tein SS suspension. i have an energy suspension bushing kit that i am soon to install. i have front and rear camber kits the front being adjustable up tp 3 degrees other than that my suspension is totaly stock.

i work in a shop and am very handy and creative. i have good resources.

the goal is to have my car low enough to look good but still handle good.

it handles OK as it is but i want it to handle great.

it seems that the best way to achieve this is to find a way for my suspension to have full travel, and still be low.

i can have anything i want machined out of aluminum.

i was thinking of duplicating the suspension techniques drop forks ofr the front. i would make them 2 inches or so shorter than stock and leave my coilovers fully extended.

for the rear i would cook up some LCAs with the damper mounting point sitting about 2 inches lower.

would this produce the result i am looking for?

i have rota slipstreams with 205/50/15 azenis

they rub like a ***** on my fenders and the car is only lowered about 1.75 inches. i see guys with thier wheel completly tucked and they rub less. WTF?

i am not some ricer feminen napkin, who wnats my car slammed to the ground but i want it to be low enough to look good, and perform well.

any advice will be appreciated.

 

also i dont know the best way to adjust my damping force. i am not afraid of reading so if you want to recommend a good right up or book... i am all ears(and ****)

 

You should PM GoGoRallyMaster. He knows his ****.

 

I was going to answer some of your questions, and try to help you out, until I saw this:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.E.G. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... i am all ears(and ****)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Now I'm not so sure...I think you need help, just a different kind.

 

There are a handful of companies that make extended-travel tophats that allow the shock body and spring assembly to sit up higher in the engine bay and, thus, lower your car more without losing suspension travel. Also, get a nice rear swaybar and sweet tires before you decide how your car handles.

With the components you have now, I would suggest setting the rear to about 75% stiff and the front to about 60% stiff. You've got a good start on parts, but you need a rear sway for sure .

 

the rear should be stiffer than the front?

 

formula integra.

it was a joke.

 

can anyone provide the name of one of the companies who sell these tophats.

i tried to search but i kept getting pics of bill the butcher

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.E.G. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the rear should be stiffer than the front?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I keep the damping on my shocks much higher in the rear than I do in the front. The springrates are usually stiffer in the front of the car due to weight balance, but the stiffer and more reactive your car's *** is the more it will help negate the incredible amount of factory understeer in our cars.

 

thanks

any word on those tophats?

 

call ground control

 

thanks for the advice

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">call ground control</TD></TR></TABLE>

or machine your own!

 

i would be able to machine one if i had soemthing to compare it to. i have never even seen one.

 

Christ, if you machine taller tophats, spin out a few dozen and sell em like hot cakes here on HT, I got first dibs BTW, front and rear top hats are exactly the same, I asked autozone how much they cost, so I can buy a new pair and hack them up like in one of the DIY's here to get an extra .75-1" suspension travel when using coilovers.

Seriously, I bet you'd make a killing.

Btw, the tophat is just another name for the upper shock mount or strut mount, whatever you like to call it. It looks like........a top hat, but with 2 bolts coming up at 180 degrees from each other on the "brim". It pushes up through the sheet metal in your fender wall and mounts there, and the top of the strut is mounted to it. The higher the mounting point is from lca, the more travel you'll have and the lower your car will go comfortably.

 

i am not screwing around. i have a frined who works for a certain unnamed aircraft building company who can design and build pretty much whatever i want.

 

oh duh i know what you are talking about

 

I'm serious too, if you spin out one set, you might as well spin out some more too, I'm absolutely positive people would scoop them up in a hurry.

 

I heard that the top hats would not fit with tien ss coilovers becuase they would contact with the hood.

 

i will have to see. but i can say that the SS nearly touches the hood as it is. the reason you cant use the ss with the EDFC(with the exception of the SS wpillowball) is beciuase of hood clearance because the shaft stick out so damn much.