Here's what I've got to work with:

94 LS, 98 B20B with 94 LS intake mani, injectors, distributor, ECU, wiring harness.
95 GSR, B18C1 stock, 300k.
One dead 94 B18B with 5spd box, bad rod bearing.

I'm driving the GSR for the winter, as it came with some Blizzaks on 14" steelies, and I can't fit winter rims over the AEM brakes on my LS. The LS is getting stored for the winter.

Here's what I'd like to do.

Next spring, I want to swap the CRV head for the GSR head. I know how to do this.

What I need to know is:

Are the GSR rods stronger, and can I use them?

Should I use the GSR girdle, oil pan, and pickup?

Will the piston oil squirters from the GSR bolt to the B20B block, or would it need to be machined?

Would the GSR oil and water pump be better then the B20B (I've heard the B20 uses an ITR oil pump)?

Anything else I could transfer from the GSR short block to the B20B?

Would I be better over overboaring the GSR block to 84mm, and using the B20 pistons?

I assume the cranks are different, due to the stroke.

THANKS

 

if you're gonna bore the gsr block to 84mm, you're gonna need to sleeve it...and if you do that, why would you waste your time putting the b20 pistons in...might as well get some high compression forged pistons(if you're staying allmotor)...and yes the stroke is different.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20vtecTURBOnos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you're gonna bore the gsr block to 84mm, you're gonna need to sleeve it...and if you do that, why would you waste your time putting the b20 pistons in...might as well get some high compression forged pistons(if you're staying allmotor)...and yes the stroke is different.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you read, his 94 LS has a b20 in in


to the poster, you obviously cant use gsr rods in a b20 block with the b20 crank

 

i wouldn't bother doing anything as far as transferring parts from the gsr to the b20. i have a stock b20 block, and the only problem that they really encounter is the factory sleeves will crack if you overrev the motor. the oil squirters im pretty sure you have to machine the b20 to accept oil squirters, someone correct me if im wrong. with factory pistons in the b20, youll prolly make like 170 175 which will be straight considering you wont spend any money besides a vtec oil line kit which is like 150 or something. hope everything works out

Shaun

 

alright bro, this is what i did, and am in a similar situation

i had a b20z2 bare block, and I bought a b16a head for it

i used a gsr crank + gsr rods for the b20z2 block. granted it doesn't make a b20 anymore but hey it's still an 84mm block which makes it about 1.9L, but i'm going to use the gsr girdle as well and if you use the gsr girdle, you have to use the gsr windage tray and oil pan.

and about the sleeves cracking if you rev to high. you should take a look at the buddy club 3+ cams, they make power in the lower ranges so you wouldn't have to rev that high.

 

What do you guys consider "revving high"?

What's the max RPM on a setup like this? Stock CRV redline?

 

How about this...

Using the B20B block, could I use the GSR crank, and machine the GSR rods to accept the B20 pistons? What would my displacement be? I assume this would be closer to a square bore/stroke ratio and allow for somewhat higher revs, say in the 7.5-8k range?

Bumpity.

 

thatd be stupid too, still no b20vtec, just a "bored gsr"

you can rev up[ to 8.5k on b20 bottom/gsr head combo just fine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridvteceg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thatd be stupid too, still no b20vtec, just a "bored gsr"

you can rev up[ to 8.5k on b20 bottom/gsr head combo just fine</TD></TR></TABLE>

I assumed using the GSR crank and rods in the B20 block would give me a better R/S ratio, for safer revs, at the loss of some displacement.

 

exactly, you should be somewhere close to 2.0L though somewhere between 1.9

the reason why i went w/ the gsr crank is for the higher revs, a bit better r/s ratio, and i am daily driving my car.

daily driving is my main concern.

 

you guyz ever seen omniman's gsr cranked b20vtec? the thing puts down like 225 whp with 10.7:1 compression and it's only a 1.9 litre. over 150 ft of torque also.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16vtecsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you guyz ever seen omniman's gsr cranked b20vtec? the thing puts down like 225 whp with 10.7:1 compression and it's only a 1.9 litre. over 150 ft of torque also.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Anybody know the details of his build, like how he mananged to squeeze 10.7:1 compression with stock B20Z pistons?

 

he had a milled head

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16vtecsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you guyz ever seen omniman's gsr cranked b20vtec? the thing puts down like 225 whp with 10.7:1 compression and it's only a 1.9 litre. over 150 ft of torque also.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah seriously, how does that work? Damn.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dragonz04 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he had a milled head</TD></TR></TABLE>