kenji p28 cold start up..
i recently got a kenji 28 like a month ago and the ecu did very good on the dyno and i am very pleased with it overall. however: when i start the car for the first time the idle drops from 1100 to 800 for the intial crank and then goes to 1200 for like 10-15 secs after that it goes to 1450-1500 and then it begins the normal warm-up process.. anybody wth ths ecu have this happening also.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danny98r »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can that be fixed or should i just let it be.</TD></TR></TABLE>
my friend has that same ECU and you both have the same issues. it's fine. just make sure you warm her up for about 3-4 minutes before you ***** the vtec outta her
my friend has that same ECU and you both have the same issues. it's fine. just make sure you warm her up for about 3-4 minutes before you ***** the vtec outta her
was wondering, the temps are dropping pretty low over here now, <0°C and the cold crank is real low, <70rpm and stutters a little, and takes time to pick up to 1200rpm/1500, then settles.
Still starts but doesnt sounds good
Will emial him and see if theres anything that can be done
Still starts but doesnt sounds good
Will emial him and see if theres anything that can be done
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A higher then normal idle at cold start is normal guys...
Once the motor is at normal operating temps, your idle will fall back down to 700-750.
Concerning vtec activation when cold... There is a restriction on your ecu that keeps you from engaging vtec unless your motor is "warm".
It has nothing to do with the "evap" system.
Once the motor is at normal operating temps, your idle will fall back down to 700-750.
Concerning vtec activation when cold... There is a restriction on your ecu that keeps you from engaging vtec unless your motor is "warm".
It has nothing to do with the "evap" system.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A higher then normal idle at cold start is normal guys...
Once the motor is at normal operating temps, your idle will fall back down to 700-750.
Concerning vtec activation when cold... There is a restriction on your ecu that keeps you from engaging vtec unless your motor is "warm".
It has nothing to do with the "evap" system.</TD></TR></TABLE>
man i see you everywhere now... puhaha
anyways, this is true. i have a kenji p28. same symptoms as everyone is explaing. first time i tried to hit vtec to get out of my neighborhood, no vtec. i was scared but realized my motor was "cold"
everything is fine bro
Once the motor is at normal operating temps, your idle will fall back down to 700-750.
Concerning vtec activation when cold... There is a restriction on your ecu that keeps you from engaging vtec unless your motor is "warm".
It has nothing to do with the "evap" system.</TD></TR></TABLE>
man i see you everywhere now... puhaha
anyways, this is true. i have a kenji p28. same symptoms as everyone is explaing. first time i tried to hit vtec to get out of my neighborhood, no vtec. i was scared but realized my motor was "cold"
everything is fine bro
both my car and my freind's (4u2nv) car did this with stock obd 1 ecu's
we both thought is was because of the jumper harness
i had an ls civic and he had an ls integra
he had a skunk and i made my own harness but we both had the exact same problems
i was told once it was something with the eld?
we both thought is was because of the jumper harness
i had an ls civic and he had an ls integra
he had a skunk and i made my own harness but we both had the exact same problems
i was told once it was something with the eld?
You are running a modified ecu program with almost everything disabled.
Such as: knock, eld, atmos pressure sensor, o2 heater, vtec speed check, injector cirq test etc...
Your vehicle may not run exactly like it did on a factory eprom
Such as: knock, eld, atmos pressure sensor, o2 heater, vtec speed check, injector cirq test etc...
Your vehicle may not run exactly like it did on a factory eprom
Ok people I found one old thread that has to do with this...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=465341
Maybe I'll find more.
But this was the one I was looking for : https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=340334
Modified by Bbasso at 11:13 AM 12/3/2004
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=465341
Maybe I'll find more.
But this was the one I was looking for : https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=340334
Modified by Bbasso at 11:13 AM 12/3/2004
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"The P28 ecu turns on the purge control solenoid at idle; with a type-r manifold, that means a large vacuum leak. On the D16 SOHC engine, the purge vacuum source is ported vacuum coming off of the throttle body, as opposed to the type-r which uses straight intake manifold vacuum. The type-r ecu only allows purge control activation above a certain rpm/manifold pressure (I'm not sure which, I would have to look it up ). The big vacuum hose going to the purge control valve on the firewall is where leak is. Unplug the electrical connection to that valve and see if you still get the symptoms. Or pinch the hose with needlenose pliers. Good luck."</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Again, just so I'm clear, I never thought this was a 'defect' in Kenji's ecu/harness. Just concerned about a sensor or something being bad in my car. Now that I know what the real problem is.... thanks, no big deal. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kenji »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The quote above will fix hard start-up conditions on all cars that have an OBD2 to OBD1 ECU conversion harness. This applies to ALL OBD2 to OBD1 ECU conversion harnesses, not just mine. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Edwin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Disconnecting the evap solenoid electrical connector solved the idle hunt problems on cold startup. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris N »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Again, just so I'm clear, I never thought this was a 'defect' in Kenji's ecu/harness. Just concerned about a sensor or something being bad in my car. Now that I know what the real problem is.... thanks, no big deal. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kenji »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The quote above will fix hard start-up conditions on all cars that have an OBD2 to OBD1 ECU conversion harness. This applies to ALL OBD2 to OBD1 ECU conversion harnesses, not just mine. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Edwin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Disconnecting the evap solenoid electrical connector solved the idle hunt problems on cold startup. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Good to know... i guess..
I have yet to have a vehicle with a purge solenoid due to the fact that I never leave all the un-needed crap in my vehicle, abs, p/s, shitty sensors etc.
Regardless higher idle at cold start is not really abnormal.
I have yet to have a vehicle with a purge solenoid due to the fact that I never leave all the un-needed crap in my vehicle, abs, p/s, shitty sensors etc.
Regardless higher idle at cold start is not really abnormal.
Useful, but that isnt the problem with mine or danny by the sounds of it. Its not surging, just starts real low, then idles higher than stock for some time, then returns to the normaql OEM warmup schedule, down to 1200rpm or so then back to the stock 800rpm, all steady as a rock.
But neither my motor nor my car had the Evap purge solenoid, Kenji disabled it, so neither he ECU, the programme, the motor (JDM ITR 98>
nor chassis is looking for one, it shouldnt be an issue. must be something else, since the JDM ITR doesnt have an Evap purge valve stock, it should be fine without one
My problem is it doesnt start like the stock ECU, which is what i was after, and the reasopn i went for a Kenji chip, as i was under the impression it used stock maps for everything except the main running. I guess this isnt actually the case
Guess we shouldnt be bitching as its not a major problem, just wanted to find out if its a 'feature' of the Kenji ECU, or something that can be fixed
I am waiting for a reply from Kenji, so will see what he says.
But i will say that other than another minor problem the ECU is mint, and very happy with the results and lack of CELs, good seller
But neither my motor nor my car had the Evap purge solenoid, Kenji disabled it, so neither he ECU, the programme, the motor (JDM ITR 98>
nor chassis is looking for one, it shouldnt be an issue. must be something else, since the JDM ITR doesnt have an Evap purge valve stock, it should be fine without oneMy problem is it doesnt start like the stock ECU, which is what i was after, and the reasopn i went for a Kenji chip, as i was under the impression it used stock maps for everything except the main running. I guess this isnt actually the case
Guess we shouldnt be bitching as its not a major problem, just wanted to find out if its a 'feature' of the Kenji ECU, or something that can be fixed
I am waiting for a reply from Kenji, so will see what he says.But i will say that other than another minor problem the ECU is mint, and very happy with the results and lack of CELs, good seller
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