Bigger Brake/Rotor Option? - Keeping 88 CRX DX Knuckles!!!
I see tons of threads of people asking about brake upgrades and end up swapping to DA or EX knuckles. Well i want to keep my stock 88 crx dx kuckles but try to upgrade to bigger rotor/caliper.
1) I'm pretty sure my 88dx calipers are the same as 88 si (am i right?)
2) I'm also pretty sure i could swap the caliper bracket, caliper and rotor from 90-91 crx Si and have a little upgrade there. (right again?)
3) What other "stock" calipers could i bolt up to the stock knuckle...all i want to change are caliper bracket, caliper and rotor and be done.
Share your knowledge...thanks!
Vince
1) I'm pretty sure my 88dx calipers are the same as 88 si (am i right?)
2) I'm also pretty sure i could swap the caliper bracket, caliper and rotor from 90-91 crx Si and have a little upgrade there. (right again?)
3) What other "stock" calipers could i bolt up to the stock knuckle...all i want to change are caliper bracket, caliper and rotor and be done.
Share your knowledge...thanks!
Vince
Im in the same situation i have a hf so i bought dx knuckles so i could do a swap but then i figured out afterwards i had to get ex ones to put bigger brakes on
So im probably going to go with A fastbrakes kit but its so expensive
So im probably going to go with A fastbrakes kit but its so expensive
What eral upgrade are you getting by converting from DX to Si brake components?
The rotors are still the same size so it seems pointless to me.
Contact Fastbrakes.com
http://fastbrakes.com/
Those are upgrades for the DX.
The rotors are still the same size so it seems pointless to me.
Contact Fastbrakes.com
http://fastbrakes.com/
Those are upgrades for the DX.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4drEF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Contact Fastbrakes.com
http://fastbrakes.com/</TD></TR></TABLE>
Too much.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EL Vap133 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My knowledge is, either get the EX od DA knuckles. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't want to swap knuckles.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4drEF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What eral upgrade are you getting by converting from DX to Si brake components?</TD></TR></TABLE>
88dx/si brakes compared to 91 si brakes...the newer cars were heavier and i'm betting had a little better calipers/larger rotors?
Not looking for an autoX setup yet just a little bump for under $100 and minimal work.
Vince
http://fastbrakes.com/</TD></TR></TABLE>
Too much.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EL Vap133 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My knowledge is, either get the EX od DA knuckles. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't want to swap knuckles.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4drEF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What eral upgrade are you getting by converting from DX to Si brake components?</TD></TR></TABLE>
88dx/si brakes compared to 91 si brakes...the newer cars were heavier and i'm betting had a little better calipers/larger rotors?
Not looking for an autoX setup yet just a little bump for under $100 and minimal work.
Vince
What kind of pads are you running? Do you have stainless lines already? How about decent brake fluid? If you haven't upgraded your pads that would be the easiest, cheapest, and bestest upgrade. Hawk hp+ are <$70 from Tirerack, braided lines are ~$130. If you've already done all that then I don't think there's much you can do without either swaping knuckles or going with something from fastbrakes.
Dan
Dan
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AgentJam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
...the newer cars were heavier and i'm betting had a little better calipers/larger rotors?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same size rotors so that's why I don't see the point in doing this swap.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AgentJam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Don't want to swap knuckles.
Not looking for an autoX setup yet just a little bump for under $100 and minimal work.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You could probably get a set of DA knuckles within your price range.
Too bad you don't want to swap them.
...the newer cars were heavier and i'm betting had a little better calipers/larger rotors?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same size rotors so that's why I don't see the point in doing this swap.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AgentJam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Don't want to swap knuckles.
Not looking for an autoX setup yet just a little bump for under $100 and minimal work.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You could probably get a set of DA knuckles within your price range.
Too bad you don't want to swap them.
hehe i know i guess i'm just lazy now...just finished build and swap so maybe knuckles later,
I've got SS lines and new ford fluid, pep boys ceramic pads but i know 90-91 rotors are different then 88-89...they are listed differently on aftermarket sites.
Thanks guys,
Vince
I've got SS lines and new ford fluid, pep boys ceramic pads but i know 90-91 rotors are different then 88-89...they are listed differently on aftermarket sites.
Thanks guys,
Vince
Clean newer rotors (Pep Boys cheapos work FINE)+ HAWK pads are a GREAT performance upgrade for less than $100
ALSO for GOOD stopping get stickier tires.
like LAUNCHING off street tires vs. slicks, tires can make a WORLD of diff doing the opposite-STOPPING a car
ALSO for GOOD stopping get stickier tires.
like LAUNCHING off street tires vs. slicks, tires can make a WORLD of diff doing the opposite-STOPPING a car
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HumanResource »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Clean newer rotors (Pep Boys cheapos work FINE)+ HAWK pads are a GREAT performance upgrade for less than $100
ALSO for GOOD stopping get stickier tires.
like LAUNCHING off street tires vs. slicks, tires can make a WORLD of diff doing the opposite-STOPPING a car</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do those pads eat rotors? and are they good for street/daily drivng? Take time to warm up and bite?
Vince
ALSO for GOOD stopping get stickier tires.
like LAUNCHING off street tires vs. slicks, tires can make a WORLD of diff doing the opposite-STOPPING a car</TD></TR></TABLE>
Do those pads eat rotors? and are they good for street/daily drivng? Take time to warm up and bite?
Vince
Might as well swap knuckles now so you wont have to do double the work later. This way you can still use some 14" rims, and 15's.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AgentJam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Too much.
Don't want to swap knuckles.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're screwed then.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AgentJam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do those pads eat rotors? and are they good for street/daily drivng? Take time to warm up and bite?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Axxis Ultimates, Cobalt GT-Sports, and Hawk HP+ are good options for agressive street pads. They're almost as easy on rotors as stock pads - they do not eat the rotors when cold like race pads do. They also do not require any heat to bite well, but they do work better as they heat up (until the critical fade temp of 900-1000*F or so).
They will be pretty dusty and may squeal occasionally, but you'll just have to deal with that.
I've been using Axxis Ultimates on my CRX for street, autocross, and HPDE purposes. They are about at their limits in an HPDE environment, but are excellent for street and autocross use.
Don't want to swap knuckles.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're screwed then.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AgentJam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do those pads eat rotors? and are they good for street/daily drivng? Take time to warm up and bite?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Axxis Ultimates, Cobalt GT-Sports, and Hawk HP+ are good options for agressive street pads. They're almost as easy on rotors as stock pads - they do not eat the rotors when cold like race pads do. They also do not require any heat to bite well, but they do work better as they heat up (until the critical fade temp of 900-1000*F or so).
They will be pretty dusty and may squeal occasionally, but you'll just have to deal with that.
I've been using Axxis Ultimates on my CRX for street, autocross, and HPDE purposes. They are about at their limits in an HPDE environment, but are excellent for street and autocross use.
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