My 96 accord 2.2 can't shift into gear after engine startup since the temperatures have dropped below 10C outside. I'm driving a stick and mileage is at around 140,000km.

It is weird because I can work the clutch fine with the engine shut off and can shift into the gears fine.

However _after_ I start up my engine, my clutch feels really really soft and I have to press the clutch down at least 60% of the way before I feel any pressure on the clutch and the pressure is light for that position. With the clutch depressed all the way I still can't shift into gear but the problem occurs only when the engine is running.

Do you know what is wrong with my car? Is there anything I can do myself before I give up and call a tow truck? Thanks.

UPDATE: I meant temperatures dropped to +10C and below, not -10C.


Modified by 96stick at 4:38 PM 12/1/2004

 

check the clutch fluid level. It might be low and not giving enough pressure to engage the clutch. Or the fluid could be frozen.

 

1. check level. if fine,
2. bleed the system at the slave cylinder. if thats fine,
3. replace slave cylinder, cost like 15 $ at autozone

good luck

 

the fact that you can shift easily with the engine turned off doesn't mean a thing...every stick will do that

Sounds to me like you got a low fluid reservoir (have fun bleeding it), or leaky master/slave cylinder, or by some act of God you bent the fork. Something is causing the clutch not to fully disengage...either that or you have fried your sychro sleeves inside the tranny.

Why kind of fluid are you using (I'm thinking it should be like DOT4 brake fluid, can't remember exactly)? If it's old it could very well break apart and freeze...**** I've never been that far north in the winter!

 

There is nothing in the clutch fluid reserve but a very dark green film along the insides and at the bottom. I guess the previous owner screwed me.

I just bought 1.5L of DOT3 brake fluid and thinking about opening it but since there is no fluid or maybe just at the very bottom I probably have to bleed it right?

I don't know if I can bleed it where the car is sitting because I don't have a lift and can't get under the car. How do you bleed it at the slave cylinder?

I can't drive it until I fill it. So should I fill it up and drive it to the shop? Or just tow it? There's a height restriction in this underground garage - probably under 7 feet not sure.

UPDATE: I do have a positive pressure brake bleeder from MOTIVE automotives to bleed my truck, but dunno if the tool can be used on the clutch fluid reserve on a car and what pressure to pump the feeder.


Modified by 96stick at 4:41 PM 12/1/2004


Modified by 96stick at 4:42 PM 12/1/2004

 

Your break bleeder should do just the trick!!! Because the clutch displaces such little fluid it would take you an eternity to bleed it yourself. I would definitely flush that thing out good, that sounds really nasty. I'm not sure if anyone makes a cleansor of sorts for breaklines but look around, at worst blow them out with compressed air. Glad to hear its a cheap fix!

Also the bleeder is VERY easy to get to from the topside of the motor. From the pass. side of the block follow the steel line to the slave cylinder (bolted to the tranny and very close to the radiator fans) and you'll see a bleeder on the cylinder itself. You can't miss it!

Not sure on the pressure for the bleeder, can't imagine it mattering too much as long as you pull a vaccuum. Worst case what you can do is hook a piece of tubing to the bleeder and dip it into a glass of brake fluid and start pumping away (you can also do this by yourself). It will cycle fluid (don't let the reservoir run dry) and the air will slowly bubble out. Don't recycle the fluid you pump out, it'll probably have a lot of nasty junk in it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96stick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...
I don't know if I can bleed it where the car is sitting because I don't have a lift and can't get under the car. How do you bleed it at the slave cylinder?

I can't drive it until I fill it. So should I fill it up and drive it to the shop? Or just tow it? There's a height restriction in this underground garage - probably under 7 feet not sure.

UPDATE: I do have a positive pressure brake bleeder from MOTIVE automotives to bleed my truck, but dunno if the tool can be used on the clutch fluid reserve on a car and what pressure to pump the feeder.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you've used your Motive bleeder for brakes, then this should be easy. The bleed valve is on the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder is on the front of the transmission, about mid-height. All you gotta do is open the hood, you don't have to lift the car. Fill the reservoir & the bleeder bottle, you probably only need relatively low pressure. The only thing different would be how you attach to the clutch fluid reservoir.

 

It's been a while, and just to announce I managed to fix it using the Motive products univeral bleeder fit the clutch fluid resevoir. However it was painstakingly time consuming to adjust everything right for a proper seal because of the tight space and extra-large attachment lid that's really made for brake fluid resevoirs. I tested at 10psi with air then flushed the system at 12psi; and only needed about 500ml of the DOT3 stuff.

Thanks.

 

cool, glad that did it for ya