What's the difference performance wise between using a 3" pipe and a 2.5" pipe? For a 92 accord (2.2L) which is recomended?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zumiez007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's the difference performance wise between using a 3" pipe and a 2.5" pipe? For a 92 accord (2.2L) which is recommended?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It depends on the engine. The AEM CAI for the F23 is 2.25" [I think] and it's 3" for the H22. I don't think you would gain any significant power with a 3" pipe on a stock engine, but I could be wrong.

 

I tried a short ram 3" but found that I had lost all of my lowend torque, however highend was increased. Now I have a 2.5" ebay CAI, the lowend torque is better than with the 3"

 

You won't see much of a difference at all. Actually you might lose power because there is too much space in the tube that the air does not 'funnel' properly, plus if it's bigger you might get it closer to the engine and it will heat the air more...which is bad. I would stick with a 2.25 in intake unless youve got a need to (ie nitrous, larger diameter piping for a turbo....)

 

I doubt there will be any difference at all.. It's not like these engines are consuming enormous amounts of oxygen. These aftermarket tubes arent really improved over the factory design. Just go with which is cheaper.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zumiez007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I tried a short ram 3" but found that I had lost all of my lowend torque, however highend was increased. Now I have a 2.5" ebay CAI, the lowend torque is better than with the 3"</TD></TR></TABLE>

show me dyno sheet first.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

show me dyno sheet first.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly. Any gains/losses you may have had were either attributed to the increase in sound, or even the placebo effect.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zumiez007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I tried a short ram 3" but found that I had lost all of my lowend torque, however highend was increased. Now I have a 2.5" ebay CAI, the lowend torque is better than with the 3"</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you see what he wrote though? He had a 3" SHORT RAM and replaced it with a 2.5" COLD AIR INTAKE.

Anyone able to guess why the torque is different???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zumiez007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I tried a short ram 3" but found that I had lost all of my lowend torque, however highend was increased. Now I have a 2.5" ebay CAI, the lowend torque is better than with the 3"</TD></TR></TABLE>4 cyl engines dont really have low end anything to begin with.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accordselux &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Did you see what he wrote though? He had a 3" SHORT RAM and replaced it with a 2.5" COLD AIR INTAKE.

Anyone able to guess why the torque is different??? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Pfft, cold air intakes are overrated. Just an easier way to hydrolock the engine.

 

hydrolocking is a myth created by intake manufacturers ti get you to spend more on something with a bypass valve or whatever theyre called.

...dont drive in water thats deep enough to **** the carpet in your car and youre fine.

 

Myth my ***. I just searched for "hydrolock" and there were 69 results, a lot of them dealing with fucked up engines.
It DOES happen. Hell, there was even a topic just a few days ago in this forum about someone who hydrolocked.

And it's not like you can just avoid driving through water sometimes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zumiez007 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's the difference performance wise between using a 3" pipe and a 2.5" pipe? For a 92 accord (2.2L) which is recomended?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you could always buy a 92-96 prelude aem cai which is 2.75 inch pipe since the base lude was equipped with a F22, but a 3 inch CAI on that F22 would be too large.

most instances of hyrdrolock are do to a stupid driver, ie: driving too fast in a heavy rainstorm and driving through huge puddle and not installing the splash sheild in the wheel etc. keep in mind when the rpms are high it creates a stronger vaccum to suck up the water, so mostly likely to injest enough water to hydrolock the rpms were up past 4k rpm through a big puddle which is just stupid in any car.

 

I agree most cases of hydrolocking is probably due to improper driving in bad conditions (puddles, etc.), my point is that it happens and for those who have hydrolocked, I'm sure they don't think of it as a a myth.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pyrojeff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Myth my ***. I just searched for "hydrolock" and there were 69 results, a lot of them dealing with fucked up engines.
It DOES happen. Hell, there was even a topic just a few days ago in this forum about someone who hydrolocked.

And it's not like you can just avoid driving through water sometimes.</TD></TR></TABLE>i was also joking tard. i've seen the threads.

dont be an idiot and get water in your motor... its not like its hard to keep that from happening.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TOAB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hydrolocking is a myth created by intake manufacturers ti get you to spend more on something with a bypass valve or whatever theyre called.

...dont drive in water thats deep enough to **** the carpet in your car and youre fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol