Hi i just installed my new flywheel to my new motor and i have a prob. i set the torque wrench at 87lbs and then resumed to tighten them, the first 1 tightened, then the wrench clicked, but on the other 6 the wrench never tightend and now when i wrench them they spin, they don't lock tight....Is it possible that i some how fucked up the threads?????? the wrench never clicked, there not loose.....just keep turning when i wrench it....PLEASE Help!

 

um 76 ft/lb on thr larger engines and 87 sounds about right for the smaller honda engines.
chances are the other bolts are not tight yet, usually i tighten one down to about 2/3 of the final torque then do the rest like that before finishng it all.

 

back them out, remove the flywheel and inspect the threads. thats the only way to be sure

 

ok...the threads in tha crank are fucked....not super bad but bad enough it won't thread in by hand.....can i tap the crank holes???? and if i do will my flywheel bolts still work??? im scared shitless now this is a new motor i just ******* got....

 

sounds to me like you overtightened them and stripped the threads in the crank?? when you took the flywheel bolts out are their threads messed up??? you might need to drill the holes out and helicoil the crank. you could probably do it with the crank in the motor still, but you are probably going to have to take it to a machine shop for the work.

 

i didn't over tighten them ******* hmotorsonline put these chicken **** bolt in the crank so i thought they were the flywheel bolts and they werent long enough and they fucked up. Im gonna try and tap it.......FUCJKKKKK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

probably automatic bolts. they are shorter than manual ones.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nfinitecc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i didn't over tighten them ******* hmotorsonline put these chicken **** bolt in the crank so i thought they were the flywheel bolts and they werent long enough and they fucked up. Im gonna try and tap it.......FUCJKKKKK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nfinitecc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> but on the other 6 the wrench never tightend and now when i wrench them they spin, they don't lock tight....Is it possible that i some how fucked up the threads?????? the wrench never clicked, there not loose.....just keep turning when i wrench it....PLEASE Help!</TD></TR></TABLE>

you stripped the threads right? in that case... you did overtighten them.. dont get angry at work you did yourself... it only leads to you making even more mistakes.

Maybe you just need to reword what do did for me to understand... but I doubt it.

 

OMG your ******* right....they were damn automatic bolts....my whole swap has gone perfect all the vtec is wired up and i re-paited the whole bay replaced the axle seals, axles, timing belt water pump, plugs, wires, Im Broke$$.....But the good thing is i have one good bolt still and it will go 1/2 way into each hole, just gets tough mid-way....because of this, i think a light tapping with new bolt will cure it right up. Thanks you guys

 

I grew up in Lake Jackson, Texas. Good to hear that at least one person in that city isn't a ricer . Good luck with that flywheel. Just keep this in mind: you can halfass it with helicoils or retapping, but if it lets go at 6500rpm, you'll be pretty sorry you didn't just replace the crank in the first place. Maybe you should call the engine distributor and see what they have to say about their mistake.

 

damn... so they sold you an automatic motor?

 

DO NOT TAP ON THE BOLTS. go get manaul trans flywheel bolts. make sure the threads are clean. run thru them with a thread chaser, not a tap. you might be ok because the auto bolts only go in a couple threads so i am thinking you just stripped the first 2 or 3 threads out. the manual ones should go in quite a bit further, and hopefully they will be adequate.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn... so they sold you an automatic motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
the motors are the same. the flywheel bolts are not.

 

i guess i did, is that bad? that i am changin the pre-auto motor to a 5 speed????
The threads though are not eaten in any way..they appear perfect to the eye, no collapsed threads or anything. i just think they got a little swollen in the middle, the old bolts were so short they barley made it through the flywheel, so its probablly like a little space of swollen threads, i think a light tapp will do ok, and anyway i don't really red-line my car too much......i LYK
By the way i got the motor at Hmotorsonline.......i don't think i can say anything though, they would just be like "its not our fault your a dubass and didn't check the bolts!"

 

ok so don't tap the holes....can they determine what size "chaser" i need by showing them one of the flywheel bolts? im going to go pick up some new ones from honda as soon as i find a damn ride

 

i've heard a rumour that automatic vtec motors have a lighter cam profile and possible different valve springs because the automatic motors dont rev as high . double check the valvetrain before you go booting around. Hate to drop a valve on a new motor.

 

i really hope that is a rumor.......i would be pissed

 

OHH....something i have been wondering to ensure the strenth of the bolts....is there any kind of Lock-tight or any thread adheasive that can be used on flywheel bolts? because i don't ever plan on changing the flywheel again its brand new.

 

go buy the correct bolts from the dealer

you should be able to save the engine,
you will need to run a tap thru all the threads to clean it up
you can take one of the new bolts to use as a size reference
make sure to buy a metric die, some idiots will try to sell you a standard thread pitch

 

would it hurt to lower the LBS like 78lbs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've heard a rumour that automatic vtec motors have a lighter cam profile and possible different valve springs because the automatic motors dont rev as high . double check the valvetrain before you go booting around. Hate to drop a valve on a new motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>they would not run different valvetrain in auto motors. the cost of producing two different components would not be worth it. your valvetrain will be fine. get a thread chaser, not a tap. taps are used to remove material, chasers are meant to clean threads.

 

they have done weirder things than that in the past, so i wouldn't put it past them. It'll take 5 minutes to check the valve train. remover valve cover and inspect. If it looks good, put it back together and forget about it. If not adress the problem as necessary.


In terms of using lock-tite on the flywheels bolts: Yes, use it. Also, torque it to spec. If you under torque it, it'll back itself out and then you will have a whole new batch of headaches to deal with

 

thanks again!