I'm wiring up my A/F, Boost, and Oil Pressure Gauge in my car and wanted to get some extra help on a little thing.
The picture below is the fuse box/relay under the dash of a DC2. I have an illumination, ignition, and 12v battery wires. Which of the four numbered spots do I hook up those wires. Thanks a lot...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kcjohnnyboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm wiring up my A/F, Boost, and Oil Pressure Gauge in my car and wanted to get some extra help on a little thing.
The picture below is the fuse box/relay under the dash of a DC2. I have an illumination, ignition, and 12v battery wires. Which of the four numbered spots do I hook up those wires. Thanks a lot...

</TD></TR></TABLE> You will have to test to be sure, as they change from year to year and model to model,There is no true ign., it is a 2nd ign., [no power when cranking] 94

 

anyone else can help me out please?

 

email me at poldim@comcast.net
ill be in the states tomorrow and can look at my helms then

 

i will email you tonight...thanks

 

Buy a test light and figure it out yourself. It's VERY easy. A test like is &lt;$5 and is a good investment.

-Mike

 

thats the problem, im not familiar with a test light... i guess i would just have to search and see how to use it...thanks man

 

Sorry, maybe I should have explained a little.. A test light is just a light that turns on when it has enough voltage.. You ground the wire for the bulb and touch the probe at the source where u question if there's power or not. So... simply ground the test light wire, then switch the parking lights on, touch the different leads, one should light up.. then turn off the parking lights and touch the same lead.. if it doesn't light up anymore that's ur switched +12v parking light source. You can obviously do that same thing to test for switched +12v ignition, except turn the key on and off to trigger the power.

Test lights are very cheap and can be found at advance auto parts, etc. and can be very handy. Let me know if you got any questions. Hope that helps.

-Mike

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlowTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Test lights are very cheap and can be found at advance auto parts, etc. and can be very handy. Let me know if you got any questions. Hope that helps.
-Mike</TD></TR></TABLE> Ditto that, but a multimeter is a better bet, and are also cheap.
A multimeter will let you do a lot more, like testing speakers checking for shorts, and many more things, if you are planing to do work on your car yourself, get a multimeter, it will pay for itself in no time, one more thing about a testlight, [I have one and use it every day] be very carefull how you use it, around the fuse box or batt. and anything that you know should be 12vdc it's ok, but stay away from anything that has anything to do with ECUs, BCMs, GEMs, or any other computers in your car, a test light can DAMAGE them, evan the LED "safe" testlights. A multimeter will not. 94

 

I agree, a multimeter is definetly better, but a test light is usually like 2-3$, very cheap, and is perfect for looking for a ground or power source for these sort of situations. If you're in awkward positions where u cant hold the multimeter readout to see it, a testlight is must simpler because it lights up in front of your face. Test light is incredibly useful for the $.

-Mike

 

thanks slowteg...that helps alot...

 

This is for the 98 + but I think the 94-97 is the same

freom left to right they are ports 1,2,3,4

1 - +12 from battery
2 - +12 when dash lights are on
3 - +12 with ignition key in ACC position
4 - +12 with key in ignition position

 

thanks...helps a lot...now time to put the gauges in...