I'm currently building a 1990 si hatch with a b18a1 and my buddy gave me his aem cold air of his ek coupe. there's currently no battery and it looks like there's not gonna be enough room for a battery. I can either buy a brand new intake for the ef, relocate the battery, or try to find a smaller battery from another car or a race battery. Which do you think would be more cost effective and/or performance oriented? Keep in mind that i'm 18 year old full time student with a limited budget...thanks for any help you can give me.

 

put the battery in the back...

in a fwd its not really good to put weight in the back but sometimes u have no choice... meh..

its simple for the most part. battery box, extended battery cables, 100amp for the power wire that will splice into 3 different wires for starter power, ecu..

more info on http://www.fourthgenhatch.com he did some stuff with the relocating that isint totally neccessary but they were good moves and he did some preety clean **** in his day.

 

Hawker EP13 vs. Stock size lllllll -10lbs vs. 30+lbs
<U>Batterymart.com</U> has a good price on this

 

how is the performance on the smaller batteries or battery relocation kits? do they effect voltage or amps?

 

the battery relocation kit wouldnt be a bad idea i havent noticed much if any of a difference at all, i havent used a smaller battery so i cant really say much about it

 

relocate the battery. It's about $25 worth of stuff and it takes less than a 1hr to do. Then you can get any intake you want.

 

yeah, relocate it. I did mine and re-did all the grounds with the extra power wire I had. After the grounds were replaced I noticed a big difference.

 

thanks for the help, i think i'll order a relocation kit now

 

i have the same engine and the same problem with the air intake , the tube basically sits right on top or on the side of the pos. post . im goin to relocate the battery soon but for now just have a big red terminal cover between the post and the intake tube , not the safest thing but will work for a little while

 

I noticed that the car has some trouble starting in the morning when it's freezing out. But I also have a complex alarm drawing current.

Other then that... no probs.

 

relocate and replace with a smaller one

 

where can you get the relocation kit and what other parts do you need to do this?

thanks

 

bump!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">relocate the battery. It's about $25 worth of stuff and it takes less than a 1hr to do. Then you can get any intake you want. </TD></TR></TABLE> 25 dollars? Thats alot to just move ur battery a few feet. I paid 2 bucks for the gold connectors and went to a stereo shop and got the biggest wire they had. i think it was 4 guage.

 

Proper wire doesn't come cheap. Don't cut corners on that.

 

I think it's either summit racing or jegs that sells different relocation kits between 50 and 100 dollars. The kits come with wiring, battery box, and hardware.

 

Typically 00, 0, or 1 gauge wire is used for this. 4 gauge is just asking for an electrical fire. Summit racing has a pretty nice setup for battery relocation.

 

Be like my friend and put the battery on the floor on the passenter side :D. Fairly cheap to do the relocation, and it was a great conversation piece.

 

until you crash and the battery goes flying into your nads...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MattP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Typically 00, 0, or 1 gauge wire is used for this. 4 gauge is just asking for an electrical fire. Summit racing has a pretty nice setup for battery relocation.</TD></TR></TABLE> why would 4awg cause a fire?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ELAMINT5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> why would 4awg cause a fire?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The 4awg having too much current drawn through it therefor causing it to heat up......hmm...****, my battery is being used with 4!! But in the 6 months it has been back there with proper fusing I have yet to cause any fires, and I am using the mini battery.

 

Balogne! If you notice, the wire that goes to the starter is 8 gauge. 4 gauge is plenty. Afterall, you aren't starting the car the whole time you're driving it. Happy holidays everybody.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikerbike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Balogne! If you notice, the wire that goes to the starter is 8 gauge. 4 gauge is plenty. Afterall, you aren't starting the car the whole time you're driving it. Happy holidays everybody. </TD></TR></TABLE>
But that wire is kept at ~1.5ft while a run to the hatch (in my case trunk) is much longer. Longer wire, more resistence.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SETI20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">until you crash and the battery goes flying into your nads...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed . Just lately he re-wired it into the hatch, but then his transmission blew , so we never really got to test it.

 

Does the Summit Kit come with 0AWG? I thought it only came with 4AWG. Please correct if I am wrong bt isn't a battery only used when a) to start the car; b) when the alternator dies; c) if the car is off and you have the key to the on or acc position?