I have searched and searched and didn't get the answers I was looking for so...

I want to get new springs and shocks for my 94 eg coupe, I am definately wanting to get koni yellows, however I don't know what springs to get. I was thinking eibach prokit, tein s-tech, or the koni/neuspeed combo with the sport springs. If I got the eibachs it would be the most expensive, then tein, then the koni/neuspeed combo for the least when totaled up. I use my car as a daily driver, and I autocross every season with a trip to the track once in a while. I was wondering what you guys think, or if you have other suggestions. Thanks.

 

No off the shelf street spring is worth a flip for AutoX/track use. Get some GCs and play around with spring rates. 400/450 is always a good place to start.

 

the thing is I don't want a huge drop, and I want to keep the price down a little bit. plus I want to get camber kits all around, and that will be another $200+

I know GC is a good setup but is it worth the $300 or so price tag? because that will mean that with everything it will be about $1000, and then I still have to get them installed

 

another thing to keep in mind is that the koni yellows have and adjustible spring perch and I have no particular desire to be able to change my ride height once installed, which is why I don't see the need for coilovers

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by polishrifle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the thing is I don't want a huge drop, and I want to keep the price down a little bit. plus I want to get camber kits all around, and that will be another $200+

I know GC is a good setup but is it worth the $300 or so price tag? because that will mean that with everything it will be about $1000, and then I still have to get them installed</TD></TR></TABLE>

How about stock ride height? Because with GC's you can go from stock ride height to "slammed yo" in about 5 min. Or anywhere in between. Why do you think you need camber kits? The only reason I would want them was to increase negative camber. If you are wanting them to dial it out, don't bother. Just get your toe in check and you'll be find. Don't bother wasting money. I had Skunk2 arms and Ingalls rear arms on my old car simply to ADD camber. So now that you have that out of the way GC's sound in your price range. And you better damn well believe they are worth $300 AND THEN SOME.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by polishrifle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">another thing to keep in mind is that the koni yellows have and adjustible spring perch and I have no particular desire to be able to change my ride height once installed, which is why I don't see the need for coilovers</TD></TR></TABLE>

Absolutely. I don't either. Put the perches where you want, install coilovers, set to desired ride height, go get corner weighted, aligned and go have fun. Period. End of discussion. Now do you see a "need" for coilovers. Personally I've never saw a "need" for progressive aftermarket springs. I had KYB AGX's on my old car with GC OTS rates in the front and 300 rear. New car has Koni SPSS's w/ GC 400/500 for starters. 23mm bar on the old car, 22mm bar on the new car. Best money ever spent.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by polishrifle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the thing is I don't want a huge drop, and I want to keep the price down a little bit. plus I want to get camber kits all around, and that will be another $200+

I know GC is a good setup but is it worth the $300 or so price tag? because that will mean that with everything it will be about $1000, and then I still have to get them installed</TD></TR></TABLE>

I has always been my opinion that, if money is tight, you can't afford to buy a cheap product. In the end, the versatility of the GC/Eibach/Koni setup will save you money. And, if you are so inclined, you can run a different spring setup for street, autocross, and track, all on the same perch and with the same shock.

The 94 EG is an easy install. Save the money and do it yourself, then pay for an alignment to set the toe properly and forget the camber kit. You can "dial" in your camber as much or as little as you want with the ride height changes.

 

I am kind of a noob when it comes to suspension, when you say run a different setupon the GC's for street/autox/track you are refering to lowering the car's center of gravity for better handling and giving more negative camber right? but then wouldn't I need higher spring rates to keep from rubbing/bottoming out? and also could you explain how you mean dial in the camber with the height too? thanks for your help guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by polishrifle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am kind of a noob when it comes to suspension, when you say run a different setupon the GC's for street/autox/track you are refering to lowering the car's center of gravity for better handling and giving more negative camber right? but then wouldn't I need higher spring rates to keep from rubbing/bottoming out? and also could you explain how you mean dial in the camber with the height too? thanks for your help guys</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is no perfect setup that works for the street, autocross, and track. The biggest difference is in the spring rates people choose. So, since the GC/Eiback/Koni combo allows you to change springs easily, it is the most versatile. However, as new as you are to suspension tuning, I would forget all of that.

My suggestion is to go back to the search button (and the forum FAQ at the top) and search for information on suspension tuning in general, not just the "perfect" setup for your car. You will learn what coilovers are used for (more than just ride height), how the alignment comes into play as you change your suspension, and what will work for the street and autocross course the best (which is where you should focus, since these setups will be fine for HPDE days on the track when you are not competing).

Again, if money is tight, make sure you READ and UNDERSTAND basic suspension tuning before you spend another dollar. Good research is the best way to avoid spending too much money.

Finally, be honest with us about how much competition you're doing. If this is mostly a street setup, you're better off going to the EG forum and asking them what street setups they are using.

Once you have read more you can come back with more specific questions.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPiFF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">400/450 is always a good place to start.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How bearable is this setup for a daily driver with OTS Konis? Can the OTS Konis set to full firm properly dampen 450? I know that Koni only recommends up to 400...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChassisInnovations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How bearable is this setup for a daily driver with OTS Konis? Can the OTS Konis set to full firm properly dampen 450? I know that Koni only recommends up to 400...</TD></TR></TABLE>

depends on the chassis/weight, but i'm on a 450/550 setup on my prelude w/ konis and it's definitely bearable. Granted road conditions out here aren't too bad so that also might figure into it, but honestly with the konis at full soft it ALMOST feels like stock...

the upper limit for the yellows is purported to be 600#'s on the stock valving.

 

It is fine. AFAIK Neo in this forum runs those rates on GCs with OTS Konis on his 4 door GSR. You might want to PM him for some more feedback.

He takes is wife and kids in the car, he is always near the top of the times in STS, and I instructed him at a local track where the car felt very well balanced to me.

I have been recommending people start out with 400/450 based on his car. That setup should be even better from an EG since the car is much smaller.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChassisInnovations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How bearable is this setup for a daily driver with OTS Konis? Can the OTS Konis set to full firm properly dampen 450? I know that Koni only recommends up to 400...</TD></TR></TABLE>

You'll be fine with a street car on OTS Sports. We don't "only recommend" up to 400, many people have good success well higher than this. Too many variables to draw a specific line and say that you can't go higher. Spring the car where you want it and get good dampers to work with them. If you get Konis, try them with the normal valving and they will liely be fine. If you decide you want more valving, they can be revalved at any time. But starting first with OTS units is the cheapest initial route reather then having them race valved immediately as you may be fine for your needs and uses with the OTS valving.

 

ok, just did even more research and I now understand corner wieghts and ride height. however what I still don't get is when you guys set your ride heights up for autox and road racing, do you chenge them once you get home (raise the car for more clearence for street driving)? and if so do you get the car cornerweighted every time, or do you just record the amount you turn the threaded perch up or down? also, it still seems to bother me that if the car that being tuned is still a daily driver, wouldn't a camber kid still be needed to prevent un even tire wear while city/highway driving? because I know you can change camber by raising or lowering but I don't want the stock height for street driving (but I don't want to slam the car either, I am not a super rice boy) just a nuetral camber for even tire wear and better tire life.

by the way this is my daily driver, I autox about 7-8 events a year and I rarely track the car, but hope for that to change in the future when I have more money to do driving schools

also as far as doing it myself, I thought that a spring compressor is needed to change the fronts, and besides I am not an ASE certified mechanic, although I am willing to attemp if I know I won't kill myself, I am mechanically inclined

thanks for all your help guys

 

You dont need a spring compressor for 'race style' eibach springs on GC Sleeves.

You dont need a camber kit. You need an alignment to correct the toe. Toe kills tires. Not camber.

Just set the ride height, keep it reasonable, corner weight and align it, and then be done with it. No need to raise/lower it all the time.

 

what about the removal of the old ones, won't I need a compressor for that? the only reason I keep asking is because I have heard many stories of people getting killed doing this improperly

also, where did you guys get your GC's with the custom spring rates, all I can seem to find are the off the self GC's which I have heard are not what I wan't, or at least not what you guys have and recommend. and how much does it cost to have a car corner weighted (just wondering)?

 

If you are using new shocks and upper hats you dont need to dissasemble anything from the stock shock except the brake line bracket.

Call ground-control. They can sell you everything in one order.

 

well, it looks like I will end up getting the koni yellows with GC's 400f/450r, but it won't be until next season. thanks a lot you guys for all the help, you really opened my eyes to a lot of suspension tech

please keep posting with opinions, recomendations, or personal experience with your settings, I know there is still a lot for me to learn

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=891136 - koni shock install. does not cover gc sleeves.... but there are other threads on that, just search

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by polishrifle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what about the removal of the old ones, won't I need a compressor for that? the only reason I keep asking is because I have heard many stories of people getting killed doing this improperly

also, where did you guys get your GC's with the custom spring rates, all I can seem to find are the off the self GC's which I have heard are not what I wan't, or at least not what you guys have and recommend. and how much does it cost to have a car corner weighted (just wondering)?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you're reusing the top hats, you can borrow a spring compressor from an autoparts store. they're not as facile as what some shops have, but they work.

.RJ just covered the rest.

good luck!

 

I have not tried it personaly, but I have heard that if you don't need to reasemble your shocks w/ your OEM springs, you just remove the nut on top of the shocks before you raise the car. Then once you jack up the car, the springs will slowly decompress (safley) as the suspension droops. Then you just remove your shocks & top hats and toss the old springs. Once you switch to GC springs, you wont need to compress anything again.

Deffinently order your stuff directly from ground control. They will set you up w/ the Koni specific sleeves, and custom rates. They stock all lengths and rates. I suggest you ask for the same length springs in the rear as the front, so you can switch your spirngs front to rear for an added tuning bonus. The GC/Koni sleeves alow you to run the longer rear springs w/o any problems (they have way more threads than the regular ones).

 

I know that this is an old thread but I finally got all my parts and put them on. I could not be happier, thanks for all of the help. I can't wait until I can try it out at the next autocross.

Koni Sport dampers
GC coilovers 400F/450R with the fronts as short as the rears
GC upper mounts
ITR rear sway bar with Beaks kit