I have a 99 Accord i4 w/ FMAX turbo kit. Recently I got rid of the 2 extra Lucas injectors that shot thru the I/C piping before the TB and put in DSM 450cc injectors w/ inline resistors. I took the car out and it ran 10 times better with the new injectors on a quick street tune.

I decided I was tired of vac lines everywhere so I put in a GE Vacuum Manifold and tapped off the brake booster. I checked all lines and there are no leaks.

I also installed at the same time a Moroso catch can. The catch can is mounted underneat where the battery used to be originally.

I relocated the battery to the trunk, grounding out on the rear bumper. In the engine bay is a distributor block with two 0-gauge outlets getting the 0 gauge wire from the battery in the trunk and the other end getting the dist wire. The other 4 guage inlets have the alternator wire and a wire for the headlights.

I started the car and the car was misfiring, through the cylinder 1-4 misfire codes, random misfire, etc. I deleted them and they came back. I check the vac lines and all the electrical sensors and bled the radiator of any air pockets b/c when I put in the catch can there is that line on all Hondas off the intake that is metal that runs off the valve cover and has a coolant line attached to it. I got rid of that piece and just put a coolant line from one end to the other.

Now I am gettin a code for MAP/BARO Circut High Input.. .WTF? And the misfire codes are gone. The car is not reading or making boost either. The vacuum gauge isnt moving... PLEASE HELP!!!

 

did you tee in on the left side of the brake booster check valve?
also i dont think you need those inline resistors for you injectors. your accord should already have a resistor box on it.

 

I just checked and i didnt tee in on the left side of the brake booste check valve. I'm assuming youre talking about me teeing in between the nipple on the IM and the check valve inside the line.

Are you sure about the resistors? where is the resistor box located?

 

yeah you want to be tee'd in on the left side of that one way valve. between it an the intake mani.
your resistor box is in the top right corner of your engine bay. it's silver and has ribs on it and is about the size of a wallet or something. my 97 accord has one. i have had dsm injectors in the car before and i just plugged them right in with no problems.

 

Your 6th gen doesn't have a resistor box stock. I had my inj's wired the same way as you and had to switch to the resistor box to get them running right. As for code for the Baro pressure sensor this is located in the ecu itself. Usually comes on when the map sensor is still with in range but Its voltage is a little screwed. Check all your vacume lines and IC piping to make sure that there is nothing loose.

 

Thanks for all the info guys. I thought I didnt have a resistor box from the factory since i had the inline resistors in and the car was running perfectly, that is it was before i did the catch can and vac mani. Thanks.

Josh
Excelerate LLC

 

damn, i learn something new everytime i'm on here.

 

Alright... I am still getting the code for MAP/BARO Circuit High Input. So wtf do i do?

Also, I have the Skunk2/Fields VTEC controller. I think part of the reason this thing is misfiring is too much fuel. For those of you not familiar with this controller, you can adjust fuel levels +/- 1% up to 30% of adjustment per thousand RPM's. Now I don't know what the stock injectors put out for psi; i was thinking like 225psi, but now I have the DSM 450's. So I'm trying to figure out what I should have for adjustments? Right now at 1k it is -8, 2k -8, 3k - 0, 4k - 1, 5k - 1, 6k - 1. Is that still dumping in too much fuel? Based on your EXPERIENCE (PLEASE DON'T GIVE ME YOUR GUESSES - I DON'T WANT TO BLOW MY ENGINE UP) either with this VTEC controller or the Apexi VAFC, what would you set the figures at?

 

bump