So here is the problem: Driving along tonight and the CEL pops on, and it is the lovely code 9. The motor is a D16A6 with MPFI swap but the swap was done back in August, no problems then. So I pull over, pop the hazard fuse for 30 seconds pop it back in and drive off. The ECU is still flashing code 9 but the actual light is not on so I am thinking it is just being a bastard. While driving again the first time I rev it up past 4500 the light clicks on again. Get home, break out the manual and start diagnosing. I checked ALL of my wiring - GOOD. Checked all connections - GOOD. Checked for resistence on the proper terminals - All within proper values. Checked for continuity - ???Nothing: all my values read zero. Judging by this I would assume my distributor is shot to hell, but the motor runs fine. I even went and reset the ecu again and fired it up, ran it through its paces and had no CEL, but the code was still in the ECU. Unhooked it and checked continuity again, still nothing. So my questions are:

1) Continuity is checked by having the voltometer set to one a V setting and running the red to the terminal and black to the ground, correct?
2) If my CPS was shot, wouldn't my motor run like a peg-legged midget?
3) Could this just be all a figment of the ECUs imagination?

 

same line of issues. bump for info.

 

I went for another drive and the car acted fine, no CEL but the ECU is still showing the code.

 

on your motor turn the ignition switch off. remove hazard fuse in the under-hood fuse box for 10 seconds to reset ecu. start engine. if the check engine light is still on an throwin the code then, stop engine. disconnect the 8p connector from the tdc/crank/cyl sensor. measure resistance between F terminal an G terminal. if there is 350-550 ohms then check for continuity to body ground onf F terminal an G terminal in dividually.(if not then replace your distributor assembly). does continuity exhist in the grounds? if it does replace the distributor assembly if not reconnect the connector.

 

Did you not read my posts? I have done all that But thanks for helping anyways

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1) Continuity is checked by having the voltometer set to one a V setting and running the red to the terminal and black to the ground, correct?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

set it to ohms...

 

oops sorry bro

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchBox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

set it to ohms... </TD></TR></TABLE>

So when looking for continuity I am actually checking resistance?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I went for another drive and the car acted fine, no CEL but the ECU is still showing the code.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then there is no "code". OBD-0 ECU's retain a simple memory of the past few code the ECU's have throw. Unless there is an active CEL/MIL on your dash then you have nothing to fret about. Very few codes on OBD-0 ECU's won't throw a CEL, infact the only one I know of that won't is a code 20 ~ ELD circuit malfunction. The only real way I "reset" my OBD-0 cars is by unplugging the ECU.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So when looking for continuity I am actually checking resistance?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep

if it reads 0 there is no continuity
and if there is resistance....well theres continuity

make sure you meter is working first.

touch the two probes + and - together and you should get continuity. if not replace the fuse in the meter.

 

FINALLY - Got up this morning and decided to go about my buisness as usual, but when I went out to the car I unplugged the ECU as recommended. Plugged it back, drove off and after a nice 18 hour day of driving, no problems The only thing that was odd though was the ignition timing had to be set at 10 degrees BTDC to align the crank and cam pulley...hmm...thats another problem but the car is running smooth for the first time in its life

 

Good to hear, you're welcome.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Speed PHreak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good to hear, you're welcome.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you for the help

 

Time to bring my thread back from the dead - So I was driving around last night after my suspension install and all of a sudden the engine starts missing and when at idle bogging down. Of course, I am still on my suspension euphoric high take not of it as just being finicky. I'm sitting at the light to go back to my dorm and what do you know but CEL rears its head; not being one to miss a beat I pull back the carpet and I have the ever so lovely CODE 9. I pull into the nearest Metro-Rail parking lot and turn off the car and unplug the ECU just to make sure it isn't chasing ghosts. I plug it back in after three minutes and when I turn the car on, solid CEL, code 9. Grr.....Time to get a new damn distributor, I just can't decide whether I will get the TD18U or the TD40U as I am going to be doing an OBD-1 swap here in the near future. It would be a waste to have to buy two new distributors in such a short time.

And the moral of the story is that when you throw a mysterious code that can't be replicated, something is going to die sooner or later. In my case, later.

 

i had the same issue with my A6 when i overrevved it, it literally melted the coil on the CPS. the car ran fine, but had a CEL. had to buy a new dizzy.
stan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stan D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had the same issue with my A6 when i overrevved it, it literally melted the coil on the CPS. the car ran fine, but had a CEL. had to buy a new dizzy.
stan</TD></TR></TABLE>

How did you over it? I've only tapped the Rev Limit once but that was back over Christmas break.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How did you over it? I've only tapped the Rev Limit once but that was back over Christmas break.</TD></TR></TABLE>

my rev limiter is set at 9K, it was a mechanical overrev, shifted into a wrong gear.
ISKY valvetrain is good, no float, otherwise my pistons would have met the valves.
stan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stan D &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my rev limiter is set at 9K, it was a mechanical overrev, shifted into a wrong gear.
ISKY valvetrain is good, no float, otherwise my pistons would have met the valves.
stan</TD></TR></TABLE>

Woah, 9,000!? I would ask what the setup is that is making power up there but I don't want to get to offtopic here. Mine limit is still at stock, so I'm assuming my distributor just keeled over from old age.

 

I ordered a new distributor from Distributor King, should be here on Thursday My car loves to break down right before the weekend screwing me out of quick shipment and such. On a side note, I cranked it up to see if it was still throwing the code and idling funny - NOTHING!!!! GRRRRrrrr.....it does this just to see the veins on my head throb.

 

Got the new Distributor in and installed yesterday (Wednesday) and I can feel the difference between a brand new distributor and a 17 year old part. But here is a new chapter for the saga - went out for a drive twenty minutes ago to help clear my head (late night working on research paper) and the CEL goes off. Turns out it is my close personal friend number nine so I have now assumed that I have a bad connection somewhere in the wiring. Time to pull my harness and check all my solders in that line

In other news, I have just realized that I have enough extra parts to almost have a full MPFI Conversion, the only thing I am lacking is an ECU.

 

I am pulling code 9 also, just got done w/ the convers. and 2 distros pull the same code, 9.WTF, i need a pinout of an obd0 ecu and obd1 distro

 

i kept having that same problem.. i got a new dizzy and threw a code 8 instead of a 9. i spent a while thinking about it and went out to check to make sure all the wires on the new dizzy plug were seated, and low and behold, one of the wires that throws a code 8 was not connected up to the harness, it just popped out becasue i had some trouble getting the plugs to go together, and i ended up kinda forcing them together, and that just popped one of the pins out of the plug to the dizzy. you might check those wires on your plug just to make sure that all the connectors are soundly in the cap. i havent had any problem since.. good luck

 

bump for any further info you get on this matter. I followed the same path by replacing the distributor and all the internals, yet just pulled the same code in tuning the car last weekend. I have not checked resistance yet.

 

lol i just seafoamed my engine and i threw that code after doing it,i just posted a new post not knowing this one wasn't to far below mine lol....whoops oh well,i guess i will try first by replacing dizzy and checking all connections and wires...any other options about this dreaded #9?