My friend needs help deciding on what to get
he can get either car from the same kid.... but he's limited on money... like $2800

$2700- 94ex coupe w/B16A, Straight body, LS Interior, New paint, GSR computer, Upgraded Clutch,PP, Lighter Flywheel, intake, 4-2-1 back exhaust, etc. with front suspension that needs about $300-$400 dollars of work if done by himself which is how we do it anyway... but even if car is fixed still iffy on driveability
runs 14.7

or

$2500 92dx hatch w/z6 swap, straight body, stock interior, Si cluster, New paint, Upgraded Clutch,PP, Lighter Flywheel, intake, cat back exhaust, perfect condition... and can get another b16 for 800 to swap in....???? but this car is clean as ****. runs 15.6

BOTH ENGINE SWAPS ARE CLEAN..... help him out

 

I would get a R6

 

yeh you would..

 

bump

 

z6 swap bro...almost the same torque as the b16 plus the hatch is lighter...

 

bump

 

or u could ignore me..thas cool too..

 

I personally prefer the hatch body, but much prefer any b-series engine to any d-series. the interior mods seem a'ight in the coupe, but i would be concerned about the suspension problems. What exactly is wrong with it (ie. the $300-400 in work).


Also, for what its worth. You also might want to consider the strong possibility that the seller beats on the cars... I mean... its fun to have a fast civic and to drive fast. I'd look into records of tuning/maintenance on the engines. Take a look at the plugs/wires, listen to see if you can hear the valves clicking... Does he have papers w/ verified mileage on the swaps?


Can always think about buying a stock civic from some old lady with high mileage for $1000-$2000 and doing a b-swap yourself. At least you'll know for sure that some dude who LOVES performance modifications hasn't been WOMPED on your car.....

GOOD LUCK EITHER WAY

 

i was tired not ignoring you, but the times after the info are real so he knows the power they have... but thanks

 

Nah i know the kid, he doesnt beat on him honda's sometimes i wish he did cuz he drives like my mom but good point...

suspension problems
basically all front

cut springs need to be replaced - front and rear
2 bad ball joints
bad axle - he says but i didnt hear it clunking might be because he changed the other one.
needs new rack and pininion? maybe
r badge - needs to go...<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jlsmi2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> but i would be concerned about the suspension problems. What exactly is wrong with it (ie. the $300-400 in work).
GOOD LUCK EITHER WAY</TD></TR></TABLE> thanks... here's more info

everything got messed up cuz he lowered his car to low, and put an r badge on the front which seems to mess up everything... i know the seller personally..

swaps have low mileage and are extremely clean. i've seen the mileage on the engines he's not shady, and he didnt build the cars to sell em, my friend's lil brother just wants to buy one of them because he gets his license soon...

Bump

 

get the hatch and drop a b16 in it

 

that's likely bump

 

ya...i mean i much prefer b16, but those repairs (including axle) seem like they'd cost more than $400 in parts alone, not to mention a few days of agony working on that thing (assuming you have the correct tools).

Hatch looks like a good deal, but you might want to consider buying a stock hatch and then getting the b16 or b18 if you're gonna swap it anyway...whats the sense of buying a swapped/modded zc hatch if you're just gonna take that stuff out and upgrade to b-series...seems like a waste of money to me.

if not gonna do a b swap then the hatch seems worthwhile.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would get a R6 </TD></TR></TABLE>

I concur

 

personally i would get the b16 coupe, thats what i have and i'm happy with it for a b16 coupe. btw, was that 14.7 he ran a consistant number or a one time thing? and was it gutted

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16Civic93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">personally i would get the b16 coupe, thats what i have and i'm happy with it for a b16 coupe. btw, was that 14.7 he ran a consistant number or a one time thing? and was it gutted</TD></TR></TABLE>


thats the average it ran, the lowest he ran was a 14.5 on radials and the highest with the b16 in was a 15.1 on steelies.but has always had full interior, jdm b16, upgraded clutch stage 6, 6 puck unsprung, 8 lb flywheel, type r intake manifold, chipped gsr computer (vtec kicks in at 4500-and red lines at 8200, etc. but full ls interior with spare and 12in subwoofer in box... but he can run 14.7's all day

bump

 

not bad sounds like a strong running car, i would get that, fix the suspension, and then put it on a dyno, because i dont know if vtec that low is hurting it or helping it