https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=874605

I've had this problem for a while now, and it doesn't seem to let up.

I'm running C&R radiator, mugen thermostat and fan switch.
I've bled the system countless time. Everything works. Thermostat opens.
Normal driving is fine. Straight line acceleration is fine. Only in the turns does the temp needle climb. I'd say after 3-4 laps, the temperature would be at about 3/4.

Here's the kicker: I went off at Streets of Willow back in May. All 4 wheels. Anyhow, when I came back, the car started overheating. Any idea what the problem could possibly be?

Could mild oil starvation cause the car to overheat? What about the oil being too hot?

Cliffnotes: I went off at Streets after the chicane. Sideways. Car overheats on the track after 3-4 laps. Normal driving is fine.

 

Are you 100% sure that you have enough coolant in the car? maybe pitching the car left or right makes the level fall to an unsafe point and triggers the gauge to react?

Or

Have you tried a REAL temp gauge to see if your really getting too hot, maybe the current gauge you have now is faulty ?

 

Does your coolant level drop after being at the track? Maybe far fetched but perhaps your burning coolant off which is leading to overheating???

 

coolant levels are full. reservoir never moves. this may be a problem also tho.

an accurate temp gauge is going in as soon as i get it from greddy.

 

please note that i do vent coolant. but it's not very often since i have a 140kPa cap.

 

I wouldn't take it back to the track until you get that gauge put it and make sure everything is ok.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't take it back to the track until you get that gauge put it and make sure everything is ok. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So what if the gauge tells me it overheats? Same thing would happen. Anyone got any ideas what could be causing my overheating problems?

 

I was just thinking that if you rad cap is not at the right psi your car could overheat.

You should try different caps and see what happens.

 

I guess I could try a 110kPa cap. The thing is, it only overheats in the turns. Straightaways causes the car to cool down. Not very much since there are more turns than straights. I never had a problem with this previously. Only after that incident at SOW. Last two times in January and Feb, I never had the problem. And this was at SOW and Buttonwillow.

 

bump

 

check your rad pressue like Rob said.

I knwe a girl who had the same problem with the straight away cooling down, then heating up sitting. She had a problem with enough air getting into the engine. I can't remember what exactly. When I talk to her next I will post again in here to try and help ya out man.

 

No need for bumps on this forum...

Have you checked you Hoses to see if they collapse?
Either way I would replace them to be safe.

 

I'll check the cap when I can. Realize that I can't check if it overheats until I'm on the track. Normal driving is fine. Taking 1 or 2 or 10 offramps at full speed doesn't do anything. I need to be at redline for like, 10-15 minutes. Since I can't do this on the street because it's -highly- illegal, I'll be able to check at the next track event.

Hoses are in good condition.

I appreciate your taking the time to help

 

Anyone else have any crazy ideas? Why would spinning out cause the car to suddenly overheat at the track.

 

Dec 12th, Hope to see everyone there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all stock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=874605

I've had this problem for a while now, and it doesn't seem to let up.

I'm running C&R radiator, mugen thermostat and fan switch.
I've bled the system countless time. Everything works. Thermostat opens.
Normal driving is fine. Straight line acceleration is fine. Only in the turns does the temp needle climb. I'd say after 3-4 laps, the temperature would be at about 3/4.

Here's the kicker: I went off at Streets of Willow back in May. All 4 wheels. Anyhow, when I came back, the car started overheating. Any idea what the problem could possibly be?

Could mild oil starvation cause the car to overheat? What about the oil being too hot?

Cliffnotes: I went off at Streets after the chicane. Sideways. Car overheats on the track after 3-4 laps. Normal driving is fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Chit mang, I run a turbo and I don't see my needle get to 3/4ths.

If your reservoir was moving/overflowing, I'd say leaky headgasket could cause air bubbles to get into the coolant and blow enough out to cause it to overheat. Doesn't explain the straight line cooling effect though.

Does anyone think bleeding/flushing the fluid might help?

Also, what about the water pump? That seems unlikely, but maybe at higher RPM it turns enough water to cool, and then in the corners it'd not flow enough? Naaaahhhh....

Ummm...... maybe you got some dirt/leaves in your radiator? Hahaha.

-Chris

 

I'm too lazy to read everything, but...how many miles on the motor. If there was/is a lot of contamination, it can lead to build up of scale. .001" of scale build up is the equavilent to 1" of cast iron. also, check the mixture. check fan operation. flush the coolant out of the block too.

 

Coolant's been flushed several times. Fan turns on. The fan turns on when the needle jumps to 3/4ths, so it means that the fan switch is working. Which also should indicate that the temp sensor isn't faulty.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all stock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Coolant's been flushed several times. Fan turns on. The fan turns on when the needle jumps to 3/4ths, so it means that the fan switch is working. Which also should indicate that the temp sensor isn't faulty.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If I read your sentence LITERALLY--

Your temp gauge could be broken. The fan comes on BEFORE the needle goes to halfway. If yours comes on at 3/4, then either your fan switch is off or your gauge is off!

Does it really not turn on the fan until it's at 3/4ths? And does it really "jump" or move visibly at all? Could be a loose ground or something stupid.

 

Sorry for not being more clear:

Fan operates normally. Fan turns on when temp needle is in the middle. When at the track, after 3-4 laps, the needle slowly rises from 1/2 to 3/4. It could go higher - but that's when I decide I don't want to blow anything, so I pit. During this time, the needle is very slowly declining. The fan is on the entire time when the needle is above the middle mark.

 

wow, the only thing I can think of off the top of my head is the thermostat is bad or installed backwards. From the symptoms, I'd check that first. Look at the thermostat, the point of the pyramid shape it makes should be in the block.

 

maybe you can post your question on the roadracing/autox forum (unless you've already done that). i'm sure people there have run across your problem.

kepani

[edit: nevermind...didn't see your first link ]

good luck finding the answer.

 

I too am having the same problem.
I'm using the C&R rad, Mugen thermostat, Spoon thermoswitch and Motul Inugel coolant. It seems like the temperature rises, especially on high RPM and on turns. Another thing is that when overheat, coolant stays in reservoir bottle and won't go back to the rad when motor cools down.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Project X &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I too am having the same problem.
I'm using the C&R rad, Mugen thermostat, Spoon thermoswitch and Motul Inugel coolant. It seems like the temperature rises, especially on high RPM and on turns. Another thing is that when overheat, coolant stays in reservoir bottle and won't go back to the rad when motor cools down.</TD></TR></TABLE>

WAIT - did you just mention you are having this EXACT problem??! Normal driving is fine, track driving isn't? Thank god someone has a similar problem like this!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all stock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

WAIT - did you just mention you are having this EXACT problem??! Normal driving is fine, track driving isn't? Thank god someone has a similar problem like this!</TD></TR></TABLE>

check the thermo like I said above?