[FAQ] How-To: Removal and Installation of a Distributor O-Ring.
Thread Starter
Electrician
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,709
Likes: 0
From: Astoria, Queens,, Zoo York City, U.S.A.
I know it's a fairly simple install, but to one (as myself) who doesn't really wrench away at an engine (only when something breaks) constantly, here's a write-up if you ever find any oil coming from the bottom of the distributor.
There was oil under the distributor, on top of the transmission, and everywhere in that area. I pin-pointed the culprit to be the distributor o-ring.
Thanks to Luserkid for helping me out and making it easier, on my other thread, regarding this subject.
Step 1:
With something straight, mark where your distributor is already at so your timing won't be affected. I used my trusty Architect's Scale.

Step 2:
Make a nice straight line with a nail or a screw. Now, whenever you need to do any sort of adjustment, you know where the stock timing is. If you need to change your timing for power, that's another story, but I'm probably NEVER going to do that.

Step 3:
Remove the first bolt that holds it in place. I took Luserkid's advice, and started with the bolt closest to the firewall. Use a 12mm box wrench.

Step 4:
Then, remove the bolt closest to the front of the car (sorry for the blurry pic, Macro pwnz me).

Step 5:
Then, the last bolt, the upper one.

Step 6:
Pull it out SLOWLY. This is the distributor removed.

This is why I think it's the culprit:

Steady build-up of oil at the bottom coming from here.
Step 7:
Remove the o-ring with a needle-nose plier or small flat-head screwdriver. If you have lots of tools, a need-nose pick will do good.

The second I grabbed the o-ring, it cracked right in half. It felt VERY dry aswell, which, I think, is the reason is was leaking.

Step 8:
Install the new o-ring with a little bit of engine oil just to lubricate it.

Step 9:
MAKE SURE YOU DON'T TURN ANYTHING (FINS). PLACE IT BACK SLOWLY AND MAKE SURE THE FINS ENTER THE GROOVES INSIDE THE HEAD.
Step 10:
Bolt everything back nice and snug and line up your distributor with the line you made earlier.

You're done.
Before you install the distributor back on, you might want to take a rag and use some degreaser and get into the cracks as much as you can under the cylinder head and on top of the transmission. Clean it off good and start her right up.
No CEL's and no pinging. Seems to have worked.
Honda Part # 30110-PA1-732. $2.22 at Honda.
Check http://www.slhondaparts.com for your Part #. Might be the same for all D-Series, it might not. Double check.
Thanks.
Modified by Dimi at 2:39 PM 11/24/2004
There was oil under the distributor, on top of the transmission, and everywhere in that area. I pin-pointed the culprit to be the distributor o-ring.
Thanks to Luserkid for helping me out and making it easier, on my other thread, regarding this subject.
Step 1:
With something straight, mark where your distributor is already at so your timing won't be affected. I used my trusty Architect's Scale.

Step 2:
Make a nice straight line with a nail or a screw. Now, whenever you need to do any sort of adjustment, you know where the stock timing is. If you need to change your timing for power, that's another story, but I'm probably NEVER going to do that.

Step 3:
Remove the first bolt that holds it in place. I took Luserkid's advice, and started with the bolt closest to the firewall. Use a 12mm box wrench.

Step 4:
Then, remove the bolt closest to the front of the car (sorry for the blurry pic, Macro pwnz me).

Step 5:
Then, the last bolt, the upper one.

Step 6:
Pull it out SLOWLY. This is the distributor removed.

This is why I think it's the culprit:

Steady build-up of oil at the bottom coming from here.
Step 7:
Remove the o-ring with a needle-nose plier or small flat-head screwdriver. If you have lots of tools, a need-nose pick will do good.

The second I grabbed the o-ring, it cracked right in half. It felt VERY dry aswell, which, I think, is the reason is was leaking.

Step 8:
Install the new o-ring with a little bit of engine oil just to lubricate it.

Step 9:
MAKE SURE YOU DON'T TURN ANYTHING (FINS). PLACE IT BACK SLOWLY AND MAKE SURE THE FINS ENTER THE GROOVES INSIDE THE HEAD.
Step 10:
Bolt everything back nice and snug and line up your distributor with the line you made earlier.

You're done.
Before you install the distributor back on, you might want to take a rag and use some degreaser and get into the cracks as much as you can under the cylinder head and on top of the transmission. Clean it off good and start her right up.
No CEL's and no pinging. Seems to have worked.
Honda Part # 30110-PA1-732. $2.22 at Honda.
Check http://www.slhondaparts.com for your Part #. Might be the same for all D-Series, it might not. Double check.
Thanks.
Modified by Dimi at 2:39 PM 11/24/2004
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Glad i could help 
You could see the marking i was trying to explain in this picture, for everyone that does this job remember which way the marking went because if you dont you wont be able to put the dist. back on right

You could see the marking i was trying to explain in this picture, for everyone that does this job remember which way the marking went because if you dont you wont be able to put the dist. back on right
Thread Starter
Electrician
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,709
Likes: 0
From: Astoria, Queens,, Zoo York City, U.S.A.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Built to Spill »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Finally a decent 04 memeber.Nice write up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks man. Search under my name and under the Archives, I have a few FAQ Write-ups. Why I was a bit frustrated when I was labeled a 2004 member (even though I'm here since 2003 but my name got reset).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thrty8street »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice write up, I like how you were detailed; something that most people leave out when they do write ups.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Indeed. If you look at my other FAQ Threads, they are pretty detailed and pic intensive.
Thanks.
Thanks man. Search under my name and under the Archives, I have a few FAQ Write-ups. Why I was a bit frustrated when I was labeled a 2004 member (even though I'm here since 2003 but my name got reset).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thrty8street »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice write up, I like how you were detailed; something that most people leave out when they do write ups.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Indeed. If you look at my other FAQ Threads, they are pretty detailed and pic intensive.
Thanks.
Thread Starter
Electrician
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,709
Likes: 0
From: Astoria, Queens,, Zoo York City, U.S.A.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andres-eh2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tks for your FAQ participation. Nice Writeup</TD></TR></TABLE>
No problem.
I'll be doing a Write-Up on installing Omni Power Slip-On Coil-Overs for the 1992-1995 Civic chassis in a couple weeks.
No problem.
I'll be doing a Write-Up on installing Omni Power Slip-On Coil-Overs for the 1992-1995 Civic chassis in a couple weeks.
Thread Starter
Electrician
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,709
Likes: 0
From: Astoria, Queens,, Zoo York City, U.S.A.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nico »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will probably be doing this pretty soon. Nice write-up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did you get my PM?
Did you get my PM?




