HID question about the brightness....
Does anyone know what it means when one HID bulb turns a different color than the other?
In this case, one bulb is yellowish and the other is bright white-blueish.... is it the bulb or is it a ground or wire issue???? thanks all
In this case, one bulb is yellowish and the other is bright white-blueish.... is it the bulb or is it a ground or wire issue???? thanks all
yes it is a wiring problem
I would take a volt meter and check both sides to see if they match up
I had this dilema but one ground wasn't getting enough so I re routed to the radiator support and bamm no prob crisp and shinny
I would take a volt meter and check both sides to see if they match up
I had this dilema but one ground wasn't getting enough so I re routed to the radiator support and bamm no prob crisp and shinny
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krazie1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes it is a wiring problem
I would take a volt meter and check both sides to see if they match up
I had this dilema but one ground wasn't getting enough so I re routed to the radiator support and bamm no prob crisp and shinny
</TD></TR></TABLE>
so i should test the power wires??? sorry im not too good about electrical...thanks for the info
Modified by Supah_Eg6 at 11:14 PM 11/28/2004
I would take a volt meter and check both sides to see if they match up
I had this dilema but one ground wasn't getting enough so I re routed to the radiator support and bamm no prob crisp and shinny
</TD></TR></TABLE>so i should test the power wires??? sorry im not too good about electrical...thanks for the info
Modified by Supah_Eg6 at 11:14 PM 11/28/2004
Do a voltage drop check with a DVOM. Here's how:
Set it to the lowest DCV range, it may be in mV depending on your DVOM. With the lights on, put one lead (doesn't really matter, just ignore the negative sign if it comes up) on the batt positive post (NOT the terminal!) and the other on the power side of the bulb. Now do the same on the other side of the bulb to the batt negative post. You can backtrace and isolate any prob this way.
The problem with just checking resistance is that it doesn't verify circuit performance under load. This is the technique modern techs use to help solve driveability probs. Every vehicle manufacturer teaches techs this way. Just checking the power side for 12V is for dinosaurs.
Btw, electrical/electronics is the #1 area for misdiagnosis. You either get it or you don't, there is that clear a distinction. The ones that can't get a grip are the idiots that replace part after part (including ecus) and still can never solve it. The techs that pull in 6 figures are mostly skilled diagnosticians, not line mechanics.
Try it. Hope it works out for you.
Set it to the lowest DCV range, it may be in mV depending on your DVOM. With the lights on, put one lead (doesn't really matter, just ignore the negative sign if it comes up) on the batt positive post (NOT the terminal!) and the other on the power side of the bulb. Now do the same on the other side of the bulb to the batt negative post. You can backtrace and isolate any prob this way.
The problem with just checking resistance is that it doesn't verify circuit performance under load. This is the technique modern techs use to help solve driveability probs. Every vehicle manufacturer teaches techs this way. Just checking the power side for 12V is for dinosaurs.
Btw, electrical/electronics is the #1 area for misdiagnosis. You either get it or you don't, there is that clear a distinction. The ones that can't get a grip are the idiots that replace part after part (including ecus) and still can never solve it. The techs that pull in 6 figures are mostly skilled diagnosticians, not line mechanics.
Try it. Hope it works out for you.
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