My RSX-S is about to be done getting rebuilt today. So I was wondering if there is any difference as far as the break in period since now I have forged internals.
Also, when you brake it in, dont you need a special oil? or do I use the normal synthetic that I have been using?
thanks

 

I was told to use Valvoline 20w-50 on a performance rebuilt engine.

http://www.valvoline.com/pages...ct=50

Works well.

And i also got this break-in instruction sheet, but its in my car, ill post up what it says later...

 

that's some good oil, but i'm planing to stick with 10w30 amsoil.
I just need to know if I should use something different for the first 1000 miles of break in?

 

just use a thick detergent oil, nothing synthetic...and change your oil more often..

 

I personally don't use synthetic on break in..

Here is what alot of people do including myself that is, start the car with elcheepo oil doesn't have to be anything special 10-30 of some sourt or what I do is I just use the same oil I'm gona run in the car later on. So in my case valvoline all weather 10-30.

Run the car for 15 minutes, change the oil and filter.

After the oil change use some regular oil or in my case the same valvoline 10-30 to break the engine in on, after this is done you can go ahead and run any oil you desire..

 

What I did when I broke in my rebuilt engine is. Put Castrol 10w-40 oil in and drive it to 700 miles without hitting vtec. Then once I reached 700 miles I changed the oil, and put fresh 10w-40 in and go from there changing it every 2000K miles. I havnt had a problem yet =D

 

Here is what AMSOIL says about break in.
===============================
AMSOIL and Break In on New and Rebuilt Engines

Regarding the use of AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils in brand new or rebuilt engines, it is recommended, however not mandatory, that the motor be initially operated with petroleum oil up to its first normal drain interval. The advantages of doing this are as follows.

New engines or engine components generate high wear metals to begin with and generally contain debris from machining and assembly. It is more beneficial to allow these wear metals to collect in an inexpensive motor oil than to circulate throughout the crankcase for extended periods in a synthetic motor oil. By operating the vehicle to its first drain interval with a petroleum oil, these wear metals and manufacturing debris collect in the oil and are then flushed out of the crankcase when drained. This allows for a much cleaner operating environment for the synthetic lubricant.

Within the first miles of operation, if there are any defects in the assembly or workmanship of the engine components, they may be corrected before installing the more expensive synthetic motor oil. Occasionally, rebuilt engines may have re-machined components or materials which can sometimes be mismatched. These problems will develop in a fairly short period of time. If excessive oil consumption, leaks, or any other problem is noted, this should be corrected prior to changing to AMSOIL Synthetic Oil.

 

run non detergent oil for the 1st 200-300 miles... when you get the car let it idle plenty, drive easy while runing non detergent... then when u change your oil switch to whatever you prefer runing (i run 20-50 castrol non syn. highly rec. for boost) and enjoy the ride .. remember, if it breaks, it aint built right

 

You can't break a motor in on synthetic... Things just don't work right. The best oil to break a motor in on is the cheapest dirt you can find... Like the Supertech, walmart brand .89 cent a quart stuff. Run it in good on some natural dino-oil for a few changes, then go to your normal stuff.

Matt