Hi guys!

I'm trying to use the Innovative LM-1 with Hondata but the AFRs on the Rom Editor don't match the LM-1.

Can someone using this combo tell me how they programmed the analog output on the LM-1 (0-5 volts = what AFRs) and the corresponding Lambda table in Hondata's Rom Editor?

Thanks

 

first make sure the LM-1 is connected with the white wire in either B6, D14, or D10, I preferred the D10, you don't have to connect the red wire but you can into D14 if you want the narrow band o2 to work while tuning but it is highly not recommended, run open loop operation is best, the ground can go anywhere in the ground of the ecu, I prefer A26. You have to install LM Programmer from innovative website:

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support.php
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...orks3Setup.exe

Then plug in the LM-1 into your laptop or computer with a serial cable, but you can also use the serial to usb adapter if you don't got a serial port. Then you program what volt to sent out at certain AFR in the LM Programmer or LogWorks so that the LM-1 will read correctly in Hondata. I got frustrated when I first started using the LM-1 because I couldn't get it to work in the Hondata S300 because it was not calibrated out of the box, but found out I had to buy these 2 cables and to I could get the analog out port to work with Hondata. If you don't have the cables to connect to your laptop here the link:

http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motor...HG/ref=lh_ni_t

http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motor...0258926&sr=8-1

Now finally if you want to be able to view the AF Ratio in hondata, your display box should already be in view, but if not, click the display button to pull up the display window. Then right click, add new value, then click in the middle AF. Now that you got that displaying, you have to click the sensor button which pulls up the sensor display window. Find the AF then click on the numbers, make sure unit option is set to Air/Fuel Ratio. Done!

 

im having the same question with my innovate mtx-l wideband. gotta hook up for a tune but dont know where to hook it up to for power ground and analogs on the ecu.

i have a 99 gsr
p28 hondata s300 w/ conversion harness.

all help will be appreciated.

 

I think I used 0V = 10:1 and 5V = 20:1 AFR. Then inputted an offset to get the AFR to match the output in Smanager with the readout on the LM-1.

I probably need to check closer to the ends to check for linearity tho.

 

mtx-l

red = 12v switched
black = ground
white = dimmer
yellow = analog out 1 (to ecu input being used for wideband o2) 0v=7.35 5v=22.39
brown = analog out 2

 

all innovate default 0 to 5v outputs are 7.35 = 0v and 22.39 = 5v. lc1 uses the brown wire, mtxl uses the yellow.

 

had to set LM-1 up in lm programmer first for it to work, the LM-1 would not work with the stock settings, but after I setup using serial to usb it worked.

 

Like eCtune/neptune, there should be a compensation setup i believe, where u can offset the values if they dont read accurately.

 

The big thing is the USB adapter for the LM-1. No Lap Top that has come out in the past 3 years has one on it.

Bought a cheaper usb to serial adapter and it doesn't work I may have to try that one. Thanks for the Link

 

I have a lot of experience with this and find you MUST get a clean 12v source for the LM-1 plus (most importantly) ground the the LM-1 directly the the thermostat ground. Do this and make sure the voltage range in the Hondata is the same as your programmed LM-1 output and they will match with a 0v offset. Cheers

 

Highly recommend going with an MTX-L if you plan on permanently mounting it in the car for use with your S300. Makes life so much easier over the LM-1.

 

[QUOTE=mines13;46361864]mtx-l

MTX Gauge Wiring Install:
Yellow (Analog 1 Wideband 0-5V) = Connect to B6, D10, D14 (Remove necessary capacitors if needed)
Brown (Analog 2 Narrowband 0-1V) = Connect to D14 (Use either wideband or narrowband, disconnect the one you aren't using to avoid any conflicts)
Black (Ground/Power Ground) = Connect to ground terminal of battery, guide says to Connect to A24, even though this goes to thermostat, I do not recommend it since I had the reading fluctuate in hondata, reading keep jumping around, too much EMI/RFI.
White (Cluster Gauge/Headlight Power) = Connect to the Dimmer Switch, manual says headlight power, doesn't matter much, if in doubt connect to ground of battery to disable it
Red (12V Power/Ignition Power) = Connect to positive terminal of battery with fuses and automotive relays, someone said to connect to A25, but the voltage fluctuates and gives inaccurate reading, so best source is battery. Below is a picture of how to connect the automotive relay:



You have to connect the serial cable to laptop, I used the serial to usb converter plug to use the serial cable innovative has provided by connecting it to the Out connector on the MTX, then program the settings of the gauge, make sure you remove the capacitors out of ecu, should work.

Now turn the ignition on, the "E2" will read on the gauge, leave it powered on for a minimum 30 seconds before powering it off. Then connect the MTX-L Wideband O2 Bosch 4.2 or 4.9, which ever you have available, turn ignition back on, but make sure the O2 sensor is in free air and not inside the header. The gauge will read "Htr" then read "CAL", indicating that the sensor is being calibrated. Then the sensor will display the default upper limit of 22.4, once this is done your calibration procedure is complete and your can
turn the MTX off and install the O2 inside the header. Make sure you do not turn on the MTX again until the O2 is connected again, or it will reset calibration.

Settings in Hondata:

You can run either setting of the following:

0V to 7.35
2.5V to 14.89
5V to 22.39

or






More information found from:
Xenocron DIY Wideband Setup Guide for AEM, Haltech, Hondata S300, Hondata KPRO, Neptune, Innovate Motorsports and PLX Devices

For LM-1:

To make life easier, make sure you use resistor type spark plugs, my hondata would lock up because I was using non resistor spark plugs. Also, when you wire it up make sure you have good connection to the ecu.

LM-1 Wiring Install:
Red (Analog 1 Narrowband 0-1V) = Connect to D14
White (Analog 1 Wideband 0-5V) = Connect to B6, D10, D14 (Remove necessary capacitors if needed, I used B6 but you got to remove R2 and R3 capacitors)
Copper/Brown (Ground/Power Ground) = Connect to ground terminal of battery, connect to A24, again not recommended place, since I had no luck getting accurate reading in hondata, reading keep jumping around, too much EMI/RFI. The best place is to ground under the dash where there a bolt holding the dash to the frame or somewhere close to where your putting your gauge which bolts to the frame of the car that is not connected near any other sensors.

Now you program the LM-1 using LM Programmer which can be downloaded. It comes with Log Works so download that at:
Support :: Innovate Motorsports

Use the serial cable connect it to the computer, if you don't got that then buy one, if you dont got serial port, you will have to buy a serial to usb converter for the lm1.

Once you have it connected, open lm programmer, and set the programmer to the following:

Narrowband
Analog 1 - Red
0V to 7.35
2V to 22.39

Wideband
Analog 2 - White
0V to 7.35
5V to 22.39

Now open hondata Smanager and set the following in the closed loop tab in the parameters window:
0V to 7.35
2.5V to 14.89
5V to 22.39

or

0V to 7.35
5V to 22.39